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Also, don’t let the Electrician put the TWC on a GFCI breaker. Mine did even after I asked him about it and he had to come back and change it to a regular breaker (worked first day but then started tripping). Manual says the TWC has built it GFCI and not it put on an GFCI breaker.If you own a Tesla the best option is the Tesla Wall Connector (WC), note it is not called a charger, BTW. In fact with the rest of the world adopting Tesla’s NACS plug you can argue it is best option overall. The WC is WiFI enabled and Tesla offers over the air updates. One of the more recent updates enabled wireless power sharing (for free) when multiple WCs are installed.
And if you are trying to save a few bucks, why? You just spent $50K+ on your car so trying to save a coupe of hundred does not make a lot of sense.
I’ll let those who have opted for solutions speak too the value of those solutions.
This next comment is off topic: Once you decide on a solution make sure you understand how it needs to be installed, especially as to wiring if you plan to run the WC on a 60-amp circuit (48-amp charging rate). Do NOT rely on the electrician as too many of them do not know how to do it properly. Do your homework!
In any case, welcome to Tesla and enjoy your car!
I would agree. I bought one in April after shopping other brands and was surprised at how reasonable it was.Tesla's wall connector ("charger") is reasonably priced. Some would say it's the lowest priced charger. And it's reliable. I'd get the Tesla one.
I've never understood what a WiFi enabled charger does?The WC is WiFI enabled and Tesla offers over the air updates. One of the more recent updates enabled wireless power sharing (for free) when multiple WCs are installed.
I've never understood what a WiFi enabled charger does?
If I'm not mistaken the car controls charging, reports on electricity used, lets you know when charging starts and stops. Why the heck does the charger need WIFI?
I have Home Assistant setup to monitor and graph the usage of my wall connector. Sure your car can log the charging statistics too, but if you have multiple cars, especially multiple cars on different Tesla accounts, then it's easier to have it all in one place.I've never understood what a WiFi enabled charger does?
If I'm not mistaken the car controls charging, reports on electricity used, lets you know when charging starts and stops. Why the heck does the charger need WIFI?
Im interested to find out if this is a Gen 3 wall connector feature or not, whenever I finally get all the appropriate firmware versions on everything (car, tesla energy gateway, app).Make it talk to your solar gateway and adjust the amps to match the power generation stats.
With the CT now in production, guess we will see rhe “gen 4” 80 amp charging able, wall connector soon
It depends on your use case. In our underground condo parking space my 'charging station' is limited to 110V/8a. I can leave the charger setup however, and I bought a low cost L1 EVSE and another J1772->Tesla adapter, since anything else would just be a waste of money.Is there a benefit to the Tesla wall charger or should I look at other makes? Is there any functionality you get only with the Tesla one or is it just a branding thing?
Just ordered a model 3 so need to get a charger ordered and fitted asap.
Confirm that the dryer circuit is to code as the 10/30R outlet is a 30AMP max output, so that should be the circuit breaker size. It will overheat if the circuit breaker were not sized properly. I stressed that the wall charger to be set to 30/24AMP setting to ensure too much current is not drawn. The car/app also has a setting to limit charging at the home location to 24 AMP as highlighted in the App below for "Sir Watts-a-Lot", a tongue in cheek reference to Sir Lancelot in MP's Quest For the Holy Grail.View attachment 957276
I wanted the wall charger but the circuit breaker was too far and hard to reach, but a dryer outlet was on the other side of the wall.
1) TURN OFF BREAKER to dryer outlet. I then used the green splitter to share the outlet.
2) I bought an extension cord and cut off the female connector - I wanted a factory molded male end.
3) I exposed the wire on the cut side to the length specified in the wall adapter. Even though the cord is outdoor rated, I ran it through a piece of conduit to protect it from elements and weed wackers.
4) Inside the exposed wires were tightened down using included hex bit.
5) Put on the cover and turned the breaker on.
6) Follow instructions to configure the charger to 30 AMP (24 AMP usable)
It is critical to ensure that the charger will not use more than 30/24 AMP because that is all the outlet and wire is rated for. Any more will be a fire hazard or will melt things.
Once prepped, it should take no more than 30 minutes to install.
Most people will not drive enough to justify the full 60 AMP line, unless it is close to your breaker box.
This is the preferred method because the utility will only give lower rates if they can control the charge times. In my area they give .06 cents per KWH which is insanely cheap, but they don't turn it on until late at night.
Your charger is connected to evPulse - Sign in using your credentials and your utility can control charging and know how much is used so you can get the cheap rate. The mobile charger will not work with ev pulse so you cannot get the lower rate.
Your rates will vary by region.
Running an appliance/extension cord through a wall breaks code. Plugging both devices into the single circuit also leaves people open to overloading the circuit. Personally, I don't care that you did this, but to recommend it publicly in the forum as a general solution is reckless.View attachment 957276
I wanted the wall charger but the circuit breaker was too far and hard to reach, but a dryer outlet was on the other side of the wall.
1) TURN OFF BREAKER to dryer outlet. I then used the green splitter to share the outlet.
2) I bought an extension cord and cut off the female connector - I wanted a factory molded male end.
3) I exposed the wire on the cut side to the length specified in the wall adapter. Even though the cord is outdoor rated, I ran it through a piece of conduit to protect it from elements and weed wackers.
4) Inside the exposed wires were tightened down using included hex bit.
5) Put on the cover and turned the breaker on.
6) Follow instructions to configure the charger to 30 AMP (24 AMP usable)
It is critical to ensure that the charger will not use more than 30/24 AMP because that is all the outlet and wire is rated for. Any more will be a fire hazard or will melt things.
Once prepped, it should take no more than 30 minutes to install.
Most people will not drive enough to justify the full 60 AMP line, unless it is close to your breaker box.
This is the preferred method because the utility will only give lower rates if they can control the charge times. In my area they give .06 cents per KWH which is insanely cheap, but they don't turn it on until late at night.
Your charger is connected to evPulse - Sign in using your credentials and your utility can control charging and know how much is used so you can get the cheap rate. The mobile charger will not work with ev pulse so you cannot get the lower rate.
Your rates will vary by region.