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Tesla Model S 2013 MCU2 PROBLEM

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Hey. My Model S 2013 with MCU2 is tottally dead. It starts with turning off the esp and regen braking while driving. Next the car turned off the abs and power steering. It disappeared for a moment after charging at home, but when I started to drive just after few meters it came back. Then I tried to reboot it with the scrolls and it didn’t help. Tried to reboot by turning off with the turn off button on the screen for few minutes, didn’t help. Then I decided to restore factory settings. It didn’t helped, alerts are still there, it was a problem with parking brake for a moment, but it released it after around 2 minutes. Then tried to go reverse around 20 meters, when I stopped, it used parking brake forever and I can’t go anywhere cause it’s fighting with the rear brakes. When I tried to go forward slowly and open the driver’s door it showed me PRND on red color and PRND stopped working. After that I unplugged the 12v, charged it for 30 minutes. When I plugged it, the driver’s display stopped working too and still can’t use PRND. I can’t even turn off the vehicle on the screen, this option is frozen. Now I removed the parking brakes just to come back to the garage. I unplugged the 12v just to turn off the vehicle, because it was still using the front lights. I don’t know what to do. I did the photo of the alerts before I did factory reset. Tesla Service can take it on May, I know that I could make it much worse that it was before I touched anything, but if anyone could tell me something I could do it would be great. Regards.
 

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I checked 12v battery today. It was 12.75V unplugged. After I plug it there was 14.8V, alerts are gone, driver’s screen came back, PRND on white and it was possible to drive, only GTW_w182, probably cause of the parking brakes unplugged. I plugged the brakes and when I get in to try to drive, driver’s screen was black and I could’t drive, there was many of the alerts again. Then check the 12v battery, it was 13.8V. I unplugged it to turn off screen and front lights. What should I do?
 
I checked again the 12v battery, but with unplugged DC cable. When I unplugged DC cable it was from 13.8V to 11.8V in few seconds. I think I should change 12v battery then. It will be on Tuesday. I’m going to change it and we’ll see. If it won’t help I will try to check grounding.
 
I change the 12v battery today. When I plug everything it started for a while with the dashboard and PRND was working. It was ready to drive, after a while or if I get out and get back in it didn’t want to shift P. I checked grounding in 2 places on the front left and front right. When I plugged it again dashboard and PRND were dead. It seems that it’s good only for few minutes when I plug 12v battery after at least few hours break. I had a problem with ptcheater and it’s on the alerts on service mode too, but is that possible that it doesn’t want to drive cause of the ptcheater?
 
And the car doesn’t want to drive because of the parking sensor? It started with only traction control disabled and regen braking disabled while driving. I think it could be abs sensor, parking sensor doesn’t make any sense. And why on the front bumper?
 
Had the
GTW_w182 - Park Assist Unavailable warning.
There is no battery in the sensor to fail. There is however a design flaw in the wiring harness to the front bumper sensors where a rock hit to the front bumper (and not directly on the sensor) can break a wire going to the sensor necessitating a change of the wiring harness inside the bumper as it cuts the wire too close to the sensor to allow a solder fix. Seems a perfect rock shot shears the wiring against the bumper reinforcement plate. $400 later, I am all good again thank to a mobile ranger.
 
The car can’t drive cause of the parking sensor? I came back to my garage and left it with just 2 alerts of traction control and regen braking. Parking sensors on the front was working because I parked the car on my garage in front of the wall.