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Temporary charging solutions before a wall charger install

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Definitely cap that neutral wire. Electric code is crystal clear that the only place in the premises that the neutral and ground should be connected is at the main service entrance panel. It's possible, though unlikely, that a wiring fault elsewhere in the house could cause all the return current in the house to go through that one outlet the way it's wired.
 
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Reactions: davewill
Why would you do this? 10 gauge can handle a 30a circuit. He has four wires so he can install a 14-30. Downgrading it to a 6-20 makes zero sense.
Sure it makes some sense. If someone wanted to stick with official Tesla adapters, they do sell a 6-20 adapter, but not a 6-30. So it's not taking advantage of the full capacity of the circuit, but is using all official parts if that is important to someone. Coming from you, who likes to throw shade at those EVSEAdapters aftermarket ones, I thought that would be obvious to you.
 
Sure it makes some sense. If someone wanted to stick with official Tesla adapters, they do sell a 6-20 adapter, but not a 6-30. So it's not taking advantage of the full capacity of the circuit, but is using all official parts if that is important to someone. Coming from you, who likes to throw shade at those EVSEAdapters aftermarket ones, I thought that would be obvious to you.

The OP has four wires. He posted a picture of them even. He can install a 14-30. Fully code compliant and all Tesla factory parts. 24a charging. 6-20 makes no sense.
 
Are you going to use that interlocked connection for a generator in the future? you can replace it with a 14-50 outlet and install a 40A breaker, remember you have 8 gauge ((the mobile charger use 32A, 40A braker should be fine).
either option 14-30 on the 6-50 plug or 14-50 on the other with 40 amp breaker should be fine. OP just need to pick the one that is less useful, or more convenient to modify.
 
either option 14-30 on the 6-50 plug or 14-50 on the other with 40 amp breaker should be fine. OP just need to pick the one that is less useful, or more convenient to modify.

FWIW, the OP could actually potentially put a 50a breaker on that wiring used for generator inlet as it is 8 awg in conduit it sounds like. This assumes no derate for thermal reasons, etc... But that is right at the edge of the code allowance. 6awg is more optimal. But also, it might be trivial to just pull in 6 awg to the existing conduit (depending not on its size, etc...)
 
FWIW, the OP could actually potentially put a 50a breaker on that wiring used for generator inlet as it is 8 awg in conduit it sounds like. This assumes no derate for thermal reasons, etc... But that is right at the edge of the code allowance. 6awg is more optimal. But also, it might be trivial to just pull in 6 awg to the existing conduit (depending not on its size, etc...)
I forget the temp rating for romex but it should be THHN anyways. I'd probably go with a 50 myself, but 40 is safer without seeing the wiring.

Ampacity Charts - Cerrowire
 
I forget the temp rating for romex but it should be THHN anyways. I'd probably go with a 50 myself, but 40 is safer without seeing the wiring.

Ampacity Charts - Cerrowire

Most modern romex is rated to 90c by the manufacturer, but the NEC says you can't use over the 60c rating of it. You *are* allowed to use the 90c rating for any temperature and number of current carrying conductors in a raceway derating necessary. THHN is generally always 90c rated too. But you are limited by the 75c terminations on the breaker and on the receptacles.

So if Romex in that conduit, then you can only do a 40a circuit. If THHN you could do a 50a circuit assuming no other derating (max of 86 degrees Fahrenheit ambient temp), but it is right at the edge of the rating. If you ended up using that for EV charging I probably would just pull in 6 AWG for good measure since it sounds like it is a short run and then go with the 50a breaker.

But I personally would really want to keep the generator backfeed ability, so I would just install whatever new circuits were required.
 
FWIW, the OP could actually potentially put a 50a breaker on that wiring used for generator inlet as it is 8 awg in conduit it sounds like. This assumes no derate for thermal reasons, etc... But that is right at the edge of the code allowance. 6awg is more optimal. But also, it might be trivial to just pull in 6 awg to the existing conduit (depending not on its size, etc...)

He said 8 awg on a conduit so I could assume is THHN and a 50A breaker should work too, but since he is going to get a wall charger in the future, 50A shouldn't make a big difference since the portable charger is 32A.

Best temporary solution is a 40/50A breaker and a 14-50R to charge at the maximum of a Gen2 charger (30/32 amp), but reading the last option (C) I didn't notice 14-50 Tesla adapter is out of stock.