Rust on P3D+ 3mm Hub Lip?

[Skione65]

So I just changed back to my Summers, the Stock OEM 20’s with the PS4’s. Upon doing the swap when I pulled off the winters I noticed on all 4 3mm hub lips rust around the circumference where it mates to the rim. Couple of Q’s.
Are any of you guys seeing this rust as well after the winter to summer swap? Is this rust on these hubs a normal occurrence? What are you using or are you using any type of rust preventer like T9 or Stabil Rust Preventer? Is this even an issue and will it be an issue over time? Car is only 8 months old. Obviously just concerned about the rust getting worse over time and eating the steel hub and or inner rim ring. Would have grabbed a few shots but was pressed for time.

Appreciate any input, experiences and/or advice on what you guys are seeing and doing if any.

Ski

 

[beastmode13]

It’s normal to have have some surface rust there. Had them on BMW, MINI, Infiniti, Ford, etc. Just take a wire brush to clean it off. If you wish, apply a thin layer of anti-seize on it to prevent in from coming back.

 

[SomeJoe7777]

I just swapped back to summer tires last weekend and saw the same thing on my P3D. I routinely see this to varying degrees when I swap wheels. It's usually worst when taking off winter wheels in the spring, since the high amount of moisture and large temperature swings during the winter contribute to the corrosion. I use a spinning wire brush on the end of a drill to clean the wheel hub mounting surfaces and the hub rings, and also clean the mating surfaces on the inside of the wheels that I took off. Then use a thin layer of some aluminum anti-seize compound on the hub surfaces before mounting the new wheels. (Don't get the anti-seize compound on the threads of the lug nuts or studs, that will interfere with the torque values).

Wire brush kit:

https://www.amazon.com/Weiler-Brush-4-Piece-Drill-Accessory/dp/B07DJ9LYW3

Aluminum anti-seize compound:

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80078-12PK-Anti-Seize-Lubricant-Pack/dp/B000FW7VGE/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=aluminum+anti-seize&qid=1555506177&s=gateway&sr=8-1&th=1

 

[ewoodrick]

I'm surprised that you didn't notice it when you first put the wheels on. It often comes from the factory with rust on it. It's not a problem, it's expected.

 

[wgood33]

Did you guys know the factory torque spec on the lugs is 129 ft lbs. That is crazy tight. I will be putting on anti-sieze compound on the threads. I have wheel lock lugs on each wheel at 90 ft lbs as I don't trust them to be ok @ 129.
Bill

 

[SomeJoe7777]

Did you guys know the factory torque spec on the lugs is 129 ft lbs. That is crazy tight. I will be putting on anti-sieze compound on the threads. I have wheel lock lugs on each wheel at 90 ft lbs as I don't trust them to be ok @ 129.
Bill

Don't put anti-seize on the threads. That causes the measured torque value to drop relative to the stress you're putting on the lugs. It will cause you to over-stress the lug studs.

Yes, the proper torque value is 129 ft-lbs. That is the value that causes the proper amount of stress on the lugs to be able to handle the design loads. If you torque them less, there is not enough force on the wheels to handle cornering at the design limits.

Your wheel lock lugs will easily handle the 129 ft-lbs. The limiting element for over-torque is the studs, not the nuts.

 

[stickman]

yes torque them to 129. They're large studs and it's a powerful, heavy vehicle. And I think the rust is just from galvanic corrosion (steel hub, aluminum wheel). As other folks have said, a wire brush takes care of it.

 

[beastmode13]

M14 bolts, they are designed to handle 129lb/ft torque.

Like other said. No anti-seize on the thread.

 

[Skione65]

I'm surprised that you didn't notice it when you first put the wheels on. It often comes from the factory with rust on it. It's not a problem, it's expected.

@ewoodrick,

Had absolutely ZERO rust on it initially from the factory....thats why It wasn’t noticed when I first put the Winters on, because there wasn’t any. Only showed up when swapping Winters to Summers.

Ski

 

[Skione65]

I just swapped back to summer tires last weekend and saw the same thing on my P3D. I routinely see this to varying degrees when I swap wheels. It's usually worst when taking off winter wheels in the spring, since the high amount of moisture and large temperature swings during the winter contribute to the corrosion. I use a spinning wire brush on the end of a drill to clean the wheel hub mounting surfaces and the hub rings, and also clean the mating surfaces on the inside of the wheels that I took off. Then use a thin layer of some aluminum anti-seize compound on the hub surfaces before mounting the new wheels. (Don't get the anti-seize compound on the threads of the lug nuts or studs, that will interfere with the torque values).

Wire brush kit:

https://www.amazon.com/Weiler-Brush-4-Piece-Drill-Accessory/dp/B07DJ9LYW3

Aluminum anti-seize compound:

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80078-12PK-Anti-Seize-Lubricant-Pack/dp/B000FW7VGE/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=aluminum+anti-seize&qid=1555506177&s=gateway&sr=8-1&th=1

@SomeJoe7777,

Really appreciate this....thanks for the links as well. Exactly what I was looking for!

Ski

 

[wgood33]

Don't put anti-seize on the threads. That causes the measured torque value to drop relative to the stress you're putting on the lugs. It will cause you to over-stress the lug studs.

Yes, the proper torque value is 129 ft-lbs. That is the value that causes the proper amount of stress on the lugs to be able to handle the design loads. If you torque them less, there is not enough force on the wheels to handle cornering at the design limits.

Your wheel lock lugs will easily handle the 129 ft-lbs. The limiting element for over-torque is the studs, not the nuts.

Wow, 52 years old and still learning. Thanks Joe!

 

[Orwell]

Yeap, bigger nut, threads, lugs require more torque. You should see how much torque center lock wheels require.