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Replacing Tesla Roadster 12V battery

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I was surprised there were not many posts to replace the Tesla Roadster 12 volt battery, so I thought I would share my learnings to help others since it must be done every 2 to 3 years.

The local Tesla service center in Austin could not provide me a price, so I decided to do it myself this time.

1) The 12V battery is located in the front right wheel well. (circle below) Unfortunately, you can not effectively access it without removing the wheel.
Tesla 869 with battery location.jpg


2) After removing the wheel, there are several screws to remove, a plastic cover as well as the material. I suggest you take a photo of your wheel well to confirm where the screws are to be replaced when you put it back together.
wheel well.jpg


3) After you remove the plastic cover, you'll remove the bracket and expose the old 12 volt battery. Remove the electrical connections.

IMG_5060.jpeg


4) After you remove the battery, you'll notice the battery connectors are eyelet ring connectors, not spade connectors.

casing battery.jpg


5) I made the mistake of ordering a battery with the spade connectors. Gruber has a spade connector 12 volt battery that provides an additional 4AH, but I returned it since I would rather not be concerned with an adapter or making my own ring eyelet connector. The larger size also means you have to install it sideways.
Spade battery.jpg


6). I purchased a Duracell brand from BatteriesPlus for $120. Gruber sells them for less, but I didn't want to wait for the shipping.
BatteriesPlus.jpg



7) Replace the battery and tighten the connectors and the secure bracket.
IMG_5083.jpeg


8) I read online about a best practice to place the wheel under the car in case the floor jack lift fails..... however, I made a mistake and placed the wheel downward onto my garage floor. The garage flooring material attached itself to my wheel, and I had to carefully remove the particles from my chrome. I finally got it cleaned up! I won't do that again :)
Wheel on garage floor.jpg
wheel.jpg


9). Make sure you use a torque wrench to tighten the wheel at 77 lb/ft.
torque wrench.jpg


10. There we go.... I'll not have to deal with this for another 3 years..... hopefully this helps inspire you to replace your 12 volt battery yourself next time!

Cheers,
David
#869
 
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David, awesome pic of #869 and write up. There’s a thread under “roadster technical” that I found useful when I did my 12v.
I decided to go with a lithium 12v instead of the OEM. It’s holding up well. I would be curious to know if the 12v battery longevity is better if the car is kept in standard mode vs storage mode? I assume it would last longer since the car “wakes up” daily to do a trickle charge to the ESS and presumably charge the 12v, too?
Thanks for sharing!
 
David, awesome pic of #869 and write up. There’s a thread under “roadster technical” that I found useful when I did my 12v.
I decided to go with a lithium 12v instead of the OEM. It’s holding up well. I would be curious to know if the 12v battery longevity is better if the car is kept in standard mode vs storage mode? I assume it would last longer since the car “wakes up” daily to do a trickle charge to the ESS and presumably charge the 12v, too?
Thanks for sharing!
That is a good post as well on the 12V battery. I keep mine in standard mode and my last two non-lithium batteries lasted about 3 years. I'll check on the lithium option in 3 years. Cheers!
 
The couple of take-aways from my thread were that one does not have to remove the wheel in order to get to the battery (though it helps if one is on the smaller side), and that the battery is kept at a constant 13.8v by the car's "charging" system. Other than when there's a major system fault, its only "use" appears to be a health check whenever the Unlock key on the fob is pressed.

That 13.8v is ok (though not ideal) for maintaining a lead-acid based battery, but is well below what most Lithium batteries require in order to perform their cell balancing. Usually that needs about 14.1 to 14.4 volts. Using a Lithium battery here may cause it age (fail) sooner than otherwise expected due to unbalanced cells. I would guess that it is still likely to outlast their lead-based counterparts.

Do note that Lithium batteries cannot be charged below freezing (0C). Their BMS should prevent it, but if that fails, "bad things" could happen.
 
Again Nicely done. I agree with your choice to choose lead acid agm over lithium. Generally, I prefer lithium batteries, but I think there’s a case for a less expensive, tried and true product that will get you five or six years. I didn’t know Duracell made these! 👍