Can you elaborate on the correction code so I can email back the SC?...I just want to get rid of the violent shake...we usually leave it in standard mode..so inner wear is not a problem
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Replacing Front Drive Unit Clevis (motor) Mount
- Thread starter BobX
- Start date
Wow, something is not right here. If you car was manufactured in 9/2018 then it should have the old style clevis mount. Strangely enough, your service estimate specifically indicates your car has a Raven drive unit (started manufacture in June 2019 I believe) AND there is no clevis mount in the estimate. Oddly enough, there are no seals in the estimate either and I understand that they always replace the seals when replacing the half shafts. I followed the instruction in the service bulletin (quoted at the beginning of this thread) removed the front left tire, secured the car on jack stand and climbed underneath to confirm that I had the old style clevis. In my view that helped the conversation at the SC and I walked in with the Tech Bulletin in hand as well. Everything fell into place without argument. But that is just me. In addition, the part numbers for the half shafts are different than my invoice. Seems to me whoever wrote your service invoice/estimate hasn't got it right. You are gonna have to go back to the SC and ask does your car have the old style clevis since it was made prior to April 2019---yes or no. Why did they specify Raven drive unit, does that mean the wrong parts, and why no seals. Good luck!!!
No there is no code on the invoice. My understanding is that when they plug in clevis mount replacement that automatically enters the proper cost info and parts--clevis mount, half shafts, seals, etc.. I don't believe they did that on your last estimate because there is no reference to the clevis mount. If it was me, I would straighten this out before you take the car in. I never did get it right using the app, only when I visited the SC with tech bulletin in hand then the estimate loaded automatically at $400.
My invoice actually jump up in price once they have the right year input...$2000 to fix the shudder out of warranty....
BOBX...Tesla service still can't get it in the $400 price range you were mentioning
BOBX...Tesla service still can't get it in the $400 price range you were mentioning
blodg1
Member
The referenced "Toolbox" article is not visible to non-employees but this is exactly where the SA will find the instructions to reduce the expense out of warranty. According to the SA I spoke to, "applying the bulletin" should set the price to $350 plus tax!
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First of all, I was put on to the "goodwill" pricing by Blodg1 earlier in this thread. The invoice you posted again does not include the clevis mount. But maybe you are missing a page of your estimate. And the part numbers for the half shafts are different than mine. Maybe there is a reason for that, I couldn't tell you, I am not a Tesla parts specialist. And there are no seals on your estimate. When I went to the dealer to discuss the situation, this is what they wrote up as the Concern: "Customer states they inspected vehicle and confirmed they have the old style clevis. PLease confirm and follow bulletin procedure." That's it. No discussion about shudder or anything else. As explained by ElectricSteve in a link I posted previously, the cause of shudder varies with year and model of car. I was not having shudder issues when I took my car in. All I wanted was the updated clevis mount which the cause of shudder problem in my car. I don't know what else to tell you.
This is exactly what I need to relay it back to our Plano service center...these guy have no clues
m5james
Member
Is the custom suspension parts from n2itive.me something that'll fix the camber issue? A bit steep at $1633 but they are nice looking parts.
I got the Hardrace rear camber arm that will give you more camber adjustment...I think N2tives is overkill on the design.
Hardrace is $250 shipped for pair of camber link
Hardrace is $250 shipped for pair of camber link
Yes.
Not for me to say what brand of camber arms will suffice, but two points. These cars weigh over 5,500lbs, about 2,000 lbs more than the average ICE car. Aftermarket parts need to be made to a superior standard. And secondly, the factory toe arm has limited adjustment. After adjusting for camber to a spec that minimizes inner tire wear, it is likely that the toe adjustment cannot be brought into proper spec as the factory eccentric adjustment on the toe arm is very limited. In my view if one is doing this, you might has well do it right the first time and purchase adjustable toe arms at the same time if you hope to achieve the full benefit.
Buying the parts online is the easy part. What is not so easy is to find an alignment shop that will "work with you" to get the car into an alignment specification that fixes the tire wear problem. Most alignment shops use a red light/green light system. As soon as the alignment light turns green, they stop adjusting. The problem is that Tesla's rear camber adjustment, for example, is so wide, that even after installing adjustable arms, you could be back to the spec that doesn't improve anything. What good is that???? Before buying anything, I suggest finding an alignment shop that will align the car to a spec that fixes the issues and not rely on the computerized data in their equipment. Otherwise you have wasted your money and time.
align the car at the height you drive most at. Zero (spread) on toe (L to R, match the number close to zero and be prepared to have a different behaving car). Set the camber to the same L to R (zero spread).
This will maximize your tire life, at the expense of the X behaving a bit differently than it would with factory toe settings within spec.
As I have purchased a N2itive adjustable camber and toe arms. I will ask the alignment shop to follow their alignment specs at the riding height I will most often use (probably Low).
Yes, lengthen. -2.1 is too much negative camber. I understand it should be around -1. I suggest you get your alignment shop onside with this. As I have said previously, just because the green light come on, does not mean it is the optimum setting.
