Question about switching from the mobile connector to the Universal Wall Connector

[Grifon]

As the title explains, I’m thinking about converting my NEMA 14-50 socket that I‘ve been using with the mobile connector for the last 5 years to a Tesla Universal Connector. The hard part was done 5 years ago with the conduit/wire run and breaker work. Seems like the work needed would be something I could do myself, just mount a backplate, strip some wires, connect the new charger and that’s it. Anything I’m missing? It does look like there is a Tesla recommended electrician nearby, but it really doesn’t seem I would need them.

Any feedback related to how easy/hard this job is would be welcomed.

 

[Sophias_dad]

Its pretty likely that the installer of the socket didn't leave an extra foot of wire to properly wire the HPWC. They may not have even left 6" of extra wire to IMproperly wire the HWPC. (The installation manual says to have the incoming wire make a gigantic half-loop around the inside of the mounting plate)

And yes, you don't really need an electrician for this task. Even if you need to add some wire, polaris connections can be used.

Make sure to properly torque all connections, although the HPWC connection is the most important. It's 50 inch lbs, which is about as tight as a person with a screwdriver can turn. Note that is NOT 50 ft lbs, which will utterly destroy the backplate.

If you need polaris connectors, those also have a torque spec but its less critical that you don't overtighten since its a metal-on-metal situation(I'm sure the HPWC is metal-on-metal too, but that's all held by plastic). I'm sure you can overtighten them to the point where they cut wires, which would be bad.

And finally, make sure you understand the wire gauge/type and circuit breaker rating. Ideally the wire/breaker are rated for 50 amps and you can set the HPWC to 40 amp continuous delivery, but if you or the electrician were cheaping out during the 14-50 install the wire/breaker may only be 40 amp capable(32 delivered)

 

[Sophias_dad]

One other consideration... if its currently on a GFCI breaker, the HPWC says you shouldn't have one. It >probably< won't cause problems, but just keep that in mind if the GFCI trips unexpectedly.

 

[Grifon]

Its pretty likely that the installer of the socket didn't leave an extra foot of wire to properly wire the HPWC. They may not have even left 6" of extra wire to IMproperly wire the HWPC. (The installation manual says to have the incoming wire make a gigantic half-loop around the inside of the mounting plate)

And yes, you don't really need an electrician for this task. Even if you need to add some wire, polaris connections can be used.

Make sure to properly torque all connections, although the HPWC connection is the most important. It's 50 inch lbs, which is about as tight as a person with a screwdriver can turn. Note that is NOT 50 ft lbs, which will utterly destroy the backplate.

If you need polaris connectors, those also have a torque spec but its less critical that you don't overtighten since its a metal-on-metal situation(I'm sure the HPWC is metal-on-metal too, but that's all held by plastic). I'm sure you can overtighten them to the point where they cut wires, which would be bad.

And finally, make sure you understand the wire gauge/type and circuit breaker rating. Ideally the wire/breaker are rated for 50 amps and you can set the HPWC to 40 amp continuous delivery, but if you or the electrician were cheaping out during the 14-50 install the wire/breaker may only be 40 amp capable(32 delivered)

Thanks much for the quick reply. Great to know about the wire length requirements and the torque specs. l’ve no proper gauge wire, Polaris connectors or drivers capable of applying proper torque inch lbs (learned something new today).

Looks like a call to my local electrician is in order. My experience is I would likely spend nearly as much on parts and tools as having an expert do it.

Thanks again!