P3D Rear not aligned mystery

[Schmollak]

Has anyone had their rear subframe adjusted to fix any uneven poke? this is a continued search for why my rear left pokes and right rear sinks. Tesla put my car on alignment and was within spec. So im thinking the whole subframe is shifted left.

My issue is that the rear left wheel pokes and rear right wheel sinks. Swapping wheels around and using 3 different sets of wheels produces the same result!

Possibilities include fenders not properly aligned, including rear bumper..
or the whole rear subframe shifted.
Or .. im out of ideas! quite frustrating as I cant not notice one side pokes!

 

[1.21GW]

That is very strange, I have not heard of that before. Can you post images?

 

[Schmollak]

That is very strange, I have not heard of that before. Can you post images?

 

[Schmollak]

this exact situation but on rear p3d

 

[MasterC17]

this exact situation but on rear p3d

You likely just have more camber on one side. Stock alignment specs allow for a fair variance on camber in the rear end. It's not adjustable, so it kind of is what it is unless you want to purchase adjustable arms. It's not going to negatively affect the vehicle.

 

[Schmollak]

You likely just have more camber on one side. Stock alignment specs allow for a fair variance on camber in the rear end. It's not adjustable, so it kind of is what it is unless you want to purchase adjustable arms. It's not going to negatively affect the vehicle.

Its only 0.7 vs

 

[MasterC17]

Its only 0.7 vs View attachment 592824

Hmm, your toe is arguably more concerning and could also change the "look". Fortunately, that is adjustable.

It's extremely unlikely the frame is off-center. It's possible your subframe is damaged, but not likely. It is also possible you have damaged suspension arm(s), but your alignment does not indicate such.

This sound silly, but considering you appear to be running aftermarket wheels, have you confirmed they are the same size in the rear (a possible shipping mixup or staggered setup)? Are you running spacers or hubcentric rings?

 

[Schmollak]

Hmm, your toe is arguably more concerning and could also change the "look". Fortunately, that is adjustable.

It's extremely unlikely the frame is off-center. It's possible your subframe is damaged, but not likely. It is also possible you have damaged suspension arm(s), but your alignment does not indicate such.

This sound silly, but considering you appear to be running aftermarket wheels, have you confirmed they are the same size in the rear (a possible shipping mixup or staggered setup)? Are you running spacers or hubcentric rings?

I've swapped wheels opposite sides. Stock wheels and winter wheels. All same results. My wheels also are huncentric so no spacers or hubrings

 

[MasterC17]

I've swapped wheels opposite sides. Stock wheels and winter wheels. All same results. My wheels also are huncentric so no spacers or hubrings

Well the quarter panels are not adjustable. You could try shifting the subframe (there are four bolts, 21mm bolts I believe), but you would need it on a lift with someone experienced. They could also inspect the subframe and arms at the same time.

 

[lbowroom]

I have a difference left to right on my car too. On coil overs it’s easier to see as I’m dropped about 1.25” and my wheels are spaced near flush. I initially blamed camber as well. It’s maybe 5-6mm different side to side, which means the fenders are 2.5-3mm off perfect center to the subframe. This doesn’t seem to be an abnormal tolerance.

 

[Schmollak]

I have a difference left to right on my car too. On coil overs it’s easier to see as I’m dropped about 1.25” and my wheels are spaced near flush. I initially blamed camber as well. It’s maybe 5-6mm different side to side, which means the fenders are 2.5-3mm off perfect center to the subframe. This doesn’t seem to be an abnormal tolerance.

Did you ever fix it or left it

 

[lbowroom]

No, I think a 2-3mm offset of body to running gear in a car is perfectly acceptable. I don’t know how far yours is out. Do you have a T-square or a level? Hold a level on the fender and measure to the top of the wheel on either side.

can’t believe you swapped 3 different wheel sets? You thought there would be a variance in wheels?

have any pictures?

 

[Schmollak]

No, I think a 2-3mm offset of body to running gear in a car is perfectly acceptable. I don’t know how far yours is out. Do you have a T-square or a level? Hold a level on the fender and measure to the top of the wheel on either side.

can’t believe you swapped 3 different wheel sets? You thought there would be a variance in wheels?

have any pictures?

Nah I have 3 sets and I just swapped em around to diagnose the issue. Don't have any leveling stuff atm. I think its about 5mm different. If I put a 5mm spacer on the sunken side then it visually looks the same

 

[lbowroom]

So the correction would be 2.5mm sub frame shift.

out of curiosity, my left wheel is farther in, same on yours?

 

[Schmollak]

So the correction would be 2.5mm sub frame shift.

out of curiosity, my left wheel is farther in, same on yours?

No my driver side rear sticks out. And passenger rear sinks in

 

[James Cole]

I had this issue on a new BMW M4 on the rear, subframe was shifted left, put car on lift with my trusty mechanic loosened bolts and centered subframe.

When we removed the first bolt it was obvious the subframe was shifted because the edge of the bolt was on the far side of the subframe hole.

No damage it came that way from the factory.

 

[squareblock]

This is an old thread. so just FYI, my 2022 P3d seems to have the same problem in the rear. Only notice it because the car is now lowered and wheels are more flush with spacers.

 

[Lindenwood]

Chatting with @MountainPass about it, they said when lowering these vehicles and chasing flush/wide fitments, they have had a handful of folks identify these misaligned subframes. I have also at least septuple-checked my rear camber and spacing and also seem to have the same issue. Mine is a solid 2.5-3mm misaligned, driving a 5+mm difference in apparent offset per side.

It’s now higher on my to-do list to try to fix; I hadn’t bothered because it will require re-doing the entire rear alignment. But, my new wheels further highlight the issue :/ .

@MODEL+ I know you are the pro at fitments… have you had to deal with this? The only other possibility is the fenders are significantly different on each side, but panel gaps are even and it sounds way more likely the subframe is simply shifted on its mounts than the entire body was somehow evenly misfired.

 

[MountainPass]

I have definitely had non-customers email me and ask to buy one camber arm or one wheel spacer to try and even out the flushness from side to side, so it isn't necessarily related to lowering at all. I wonder if this was something we experienced on other platforms and never realized or if it is really just this car.

 

[Lindenwood]

I have definitely had non-customers email me and ask to buy one camber arm or one wheel spacer to try and even out the flushness from side to side, so it isn't necessarily related to lowering at all. I wonder if this was something we experienced on other platforms and never realized or if it is really just this car.

Yeah I think it is only really noticeable when the tires are close to the fender (lowered with near-flush fitments), but concur this phenomenon is not likely caused by or even mechanically correlated with the actual act of lowering!