I'm at around 24.5k and my MXM4s are down to 3.5/32. Trying to find a new set of tires to get that will last a little longer and have the same efficiency if not better. I've been digging and googling for hours and I've seen comparisons, but not as much on efficiency. I drive 20k a year and really don't wanna lose out on range or have to replace yearly. Anyone have any recommendations that they've had luck with?
-
Want to remove ads? Register an account and login to see fewer ads, and become a Supporting Member to remove almost all ads.
No personal experience, but start with the Michelin Energy Saver:
https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tire...ver+A/S&sidewall=Blackwall&partnum=345VR8ESAS
Those don't look like they have sufficient weight rating. And max pressure is too low.
P-Lo801
Active Member
Bear in mind the rolling resistance of a tire goes down as the tread wears, so new tires will almost always look worse than the tires you just removed.
P-Lo801
Active Member
The tread is stabilized by the belts, so the further way the surface of the tread is from the belts, the more it will squirm around. When the tread depth is lower, there is less squirming. After the first couple of thousand miles, you should typically see a bit lower Wh/mi, and as the tire gets below 50%, there should be more improvement. Of course, all this is gradual so it's hard to tell without keeping some detailed logs. And there's also other variables such as change of route, weather, alignment, etc.
P-Lo801
Active Member
ah yes, that's exactly what I experienced the first couple of thousand miles. Then I read that the rolling resistance is typically higher due to newer rubber compound and what you described.
P-Lo801
Active Member
I didn't really factor in load rating into my choice of tires and purchase. But when I brought it up, someone chimed in with useful information that reassured me the load rating was fine for these tires. I actually have them stretched a tad because I wrapped them on 19x9 wheels at the same OEM size of 235/40/19.
The tread compound doesn't actually change (if it does, you're in for a world of hurt), but it takes a set based on the balance of the tire and wheel, the mold release wearing off, and the tire mating to the rim flange. In some cases doing a very early rotation (1500-2000 miles) can improve tire life dramatically (not always though).
You don't want a lower load rating than the manufacturer supplied tires. Many people do this and get away with it, but if you aren't one of the lucky ones the tire generally fails at the worst possible moment.
P-Lo801
Active Member
P-Lo801
Active Member
So these tires are rated lower than the manufacturer supplied. Should I consider replacing them?
If you are only driving slowly around town, there's probably not much risk, but I would think twice about using them on a high speed road trip--particularly when the weather is hot. In general, tires are not the place to cheap-out. Your life literally depends upon them.
P-Lo801
Active Member
Yes, I definitely was cognizant of not cheaping out when it came to replacing my tires.
To clarify, the OP's term "load rating," is that referring to load range, maximum load, or load index? Because, my tires are actually rated the same as the Tesla OE tires. But it's at 96v versus 96w
The load range and the maximum load should be the same. There's a table for load range and the maximum load should jive with it. Or are you referring to the speed limit. e.g. 96W vs 96V?
P-Lo801
Active Member
I edited my post to ask the same thing. Now, i'm confused as to what the OP is referring to with lower load rating.
Similar threads
