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New Tesla SC - did it fry my battery cooler???

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Model X (still under warranty). I was at the brand new Frisco SC. At 20% and filling to 80%. Around 11 minutes into charge i get error message that power and acceleration will be reduced. Now I dont SC charge often (even though I have free SC for life, go figure). But at other ACs and usually 30-40% charge I see them fill at a rate of 230mi/hr and it goes down a lot as the battery fills. This one said 441mi/hr when I plugged in at 20% and I was like WOW…this new SC is FAST. AT 80% I unplug. Get 2 more errors…electrical system and power reduced. Vehicle kept shutting dowm, no AC in 105 degree heat. So I plug back in, do 3 reboots, nothing. Car wont move. No AC. So I plug in again, eventually get to 100%. Called for roadside tow. 2 hours later I get my first “you idled too long” email. First one is free thank god. But with no AC and 105 degrees and 2 hours to get towed what else could I do?

Do yall think the SC fried my car? Service center says it needs an HV battery pack cooler. Wonder if the battery is crap now too. Warranty expires in December. Think I should be shopping for a new car soon?
 
I did disconnect the plug…and the HV Battery cooler (which now has to be replaced according to tesla) turned the car off, zero power, zero ability to move car so line waiting could charge, zero AC, 105 degrees, 2 hour wait for tow.

Roadside said leave it plugged in - cant move so no one can use the charge bay, cant sit 2 hours in no AC and get heat stroke. Seemed like common sense. And I didnt incur an idle charge. Your first idle event is free. But I dont leave my car when I charge so I never would incur one. Thank goodness.

So when you charge at the SCs you can see it feeding your car power at a rate in excess of 440mi/hr? Cuz that is what it read right before the battery cooler fried 11 minute into charge. Never seen a power rate over 250.
 
I did disconnect the plug…and the HV Battery cooler (which now has to be replaced according to tesla) turned the car off, zero power, zero ability to move car so line waiting could charge, zero AC, 105 degrees, 2 hour wait for tow.

Roadside said leave it plugged in - cant move so no one can use the charge bay, cant sit 2 hours in no AC and get heat stroke. Seemed like common sense. And I didnt incur an idle charge. Your first idle event is free. But I dont leave my car when I charge so I never would incur one. Thank goodness.

So when you charge at the SCs you can see it feeding your car power at a rate in excess of 440mi/hr? Cuz that is what it read right before the battery cooler fried 11 minute into charge. Never seen a power rate over 250.
The charge rate depends on the car and the location. At a 250 kW site, my Model 3 or Y when they have a battery down near 20% will go over 1,000 mph until about 40% where it decreases to around 500 mph.
And 500 mph is what you get at a 150 kW site, until you hit 60-70% at which time it will start nose diving.
 
Do yall think the SC fried my car? Service center says it needs an HV battery pack cooler.
I dont think SC fried your car, it just, naturally, HV battery pack cooler always utilized during SC to cool the battery and it failed. I had similar to yours aged X that failed but not at a SC - just one day started receiving similar errors requiring HV battery pack cooler and coolant replacement - good thing you're still under warranty, cost will be around 2K without it.
 
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Ok thanks. Never seen anything over 250 charge so 440 looked suspicious. Yes O am glad it is still under warranty.

Going to go car shopping and dump it before the warranty runs out. Thing has been in the shop far too often….steering column replacement, seat adjustment motor, 12v battery, camera sensor stuff for self driving, now this. And who knows if the battery cooler failure may have impacted the actual batteries. With my luck those would go next.
 
Ok thanks. Never seen anything over 250 charge so 440 looked suspicious. Yes O am glad it is still under warranty.

Going to go car shopping and dump it before the warranty runs out. Thing has been in the shop far too often….steering column replacement, seat adjustment motor, 12v battery, camera sensor stuff for self driving, now this. And who knows if the battery cooler failure may have impacted the actual batteries. With my luck those would go next.
I'm not sure which model didn't, but I don't believe that all Model S and X support the 250kWh, 1,000+ mph charging.
You should have been seeing 400's AFAIK, but that also depends on your battery state of charge. The 20% vs the 30-40% could be enough for the difference in charge rates.
 
I'm not sure which model didn't, but I don't believe that all Model S and X support the 250kWh, 1,000+ mph charging.
You should have been seeing 400's AFAIK, but that also depends on your battery state of charge. The 20% vs the 30-40% could be enough for the difference in charge rates.
The newest models of all Teslas (2022+) support 250 kw charging.. I've gone slightly higher, maybe to 255 on my X. The most I've ever gotten at an Electrify America 350 kw station, is around 200.
 
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UPDATE: i didnt read the paperwork I approved. My X doesnt need a battery cooler. It needs a new HV Battery Pack! Ok….first question I asked was does that mean it is a refurb told me no, Tesla never uses anything but brand new parts even for the battery. Wonder how much that wouldve cost when the warranty expires in 6 months?
 
UPDATE: i didnt read the paperwork I approved. My X doesnt need a battery cooler. It needs a new HV Battery Pack! Ok….first question I asked was does that mean it is a refurb told me no, Tesla never uses anything but brand new parts even for the battery. Wonder how much that wouldve cost when the warranty expires in 6 months?
The warranty specifies a replacement with a refurb battery. But Tesla has been known to install new batteries when refurbs aren't available.
If you are out of warranty, you get two options to replace, new or refurb. That becomes a gamble, do you pay the extra money to guarantee a new battery or pay for refurb and hope you get a new one.
 
The warranty specifies a replacement with a refurb battery. But Tesla has been known to install new batteries when refurbs aren't available.
If you are out of warranty, you get two options to replace, new or refurb. That becomes a gamble, do you pay the extra money to guarantee a new battery or pay for refurb and hope you get a new one.
Good info! They told me new but is there a way to know from the paperwork or parts number if that is true? Seems weird they insisted they never use anything other than new when so many say the warranties now state new or remanufactured.
 
Good info! They told me new but is there a way to know from the paperwork or parts number if that is true? Seems weird they insisted they never use anything other than new when so many say the warranties now state new or remanufactured.
The final alpha character on the battery sticker will narrow down the build date at least. My ‘21 X has an -H pack, I saw someone here say their ‘23 has a -J pack.