TomServo
Active Member
I live in southern IL (20 miles SE from St Louis) and if your near by and still stranded or needing help let me know.
-
Want to remove ads? Register an account and login to see fewer ads, and become a Supporting Member to remove almost all ads.
MY disabled 1000 miles from home ... twice. Any ideas?
- Thread starter kiler129
- Start date
-
- Tags
- lv battery pcs
Thanks! Currently driving towards CA
----
So, the saga of mysterious Tesla continues, now involving engineers from the HQ. Nobody knows what's the problem but the suspect is actually either on the front main harness, steering rack, or the front drive unit ECU shorting LV or CAN. These parts aren't readily available unfortunately.
The let us go to continue the trip with some instructions how to potentially reset the car without towing it. Interestingly, there's a pretty consistent way to trigger the problem: turn left sharply on an uneven ground .... I'm not gonna lie, it's pretty hilarious. Nerve-wracking but funny
When I have a moment I will put a list of all codes here so search engines can index it for the future. So far we're getting sporadic DIF_a018 _hwLVSupplyUV but it usually fixes itself right away.
Last edited:
Could you post the reset instructions? May need them sometime since I've been ignoring "vehicle may not restart" alert.Thanks! Currently driving towards CA
----
So, the saga of mysterious Tesla continues, now involving engineers from the HQ. Nobody knows what's the problem but the suspect is actually either on the front main harness, steering rack, or the front drive unit ECU shorting LV or CAN. These parts aren't readily available unfortunately.
The let us go to continue the trip with some instructions how to potentially reset the car without towing it. Interestingly, there's a pretty consistent way to trigger the problem: turn left sharply on an uneven ground .... I'm not gonna lie, it's pretty hilarious. Nerve-wracking but funny
When I have a moment I will put a list of all codes here so search engines can index it for the future. So far we're getting sporadic DIF_a018 _hwLVSupplyUV but it usually fixes itself right away.
As promised adding all the codes the car tossed when dying on the road, so that google can index it. Some of them were still active after car mysteriously came to life for a handful of hours, some of them appeared multiple times in recents.
What's crucial, and probably very confusing during diagnostics, most of these errors were fetched by MCU at the same time and long after the car died. Thus, timestamps offered by the service mode are mostly useless. I wonder if Toolbox3 had any more data.
In case someone disbeliefs that all these just appeared at once here's a snippet as it takes multiple screens:
(is there a prize for concurrent number of errors all at once? ;D)
-----------
Avoiding the trigger condition (don't turn left sharply, especially on uneven ground) the car did ~5-6k miles so far and safely came back home. Since turning left cannot be fully avoided I also saw the following ones from time to time, but these may also be a red herring unrelated to the issue:
Disclaimer: not sanctioned, not recommended, not guaranteed to ever work, not approved by anyone but...:
If-you-are-lucky
=> Warning: this can lock you out of the car completely! First try it with frunk opened, if it doesn't work try closing the frunk and doing it again.
1. Grab your phone(s) and turn off BT on them to forcefully disable mobile keys
2. Grab your mobile card from the car!
3. Leave the car
4. Close ALL doors and let windows roll up
5. Stand away from ultrasound sensors to not trigger sentry (it's unknown if it's active in such state!)
6. Wait a few minutes. This is meant to ensure the car goes to sleep and CAN buses will be disabled/put in low-power mode
7. Try to unlock the car with the key card
8. If you're lucky everything will come back to normal and the car will function like nothing happened
If-you-are-unlucky-and-brave
So, the previous procedure may not work and simply lock you out of the car. I will be slightly speculating here as I'm not 100% sure as I couldn't A/B test every scenario. There seems to be a small but not really dangerous loophole: the frunk can be opened even if the LVB isn't drained with the emergency release. It seems to work with a car that has the 16V Li-Ion battery and VCFRONT that cannot communicate with anything.
1. Release the frunk with emergency release (see Tesla guide: Model Y Owner's Manual | Tesla). Using a single 9V battery will not work, around 12V voltage source is needed. In 16V cars using two 9V batteries shouldn't cause any damage, but this is just my knowledge from EE.
2. Disconnect LVB. Check service manual for details, but on Y it requires either very small hands or a 10mm socket to remove/lift filter housing
3. Disconnect first responder loop
4. Wait ~10 minutes
5. Connect first responder loop
6. Connect LVB
7. Wait until the car boots
8. You should be able to unlock the car with the key card. The phone key doesn't seem to work after that without using the card first.
These steps are way less sanctioned and anyone trying them should REALLY read the service documents first - there are some important warning and very big red messages there (e.g. you must turn off HVAC before pulling LVB). I don't know the significance, but the order of steps seems to be critical here.
- DIR_a234_pcsMIA
- DIF_a234_pcsMIA
- GTW_w109_failedToStartUpdater
- GTW_w072_updateFailure
- VCLEFT_a182_emergencyLatchRel (can be ignored, that was the only way to open the door)
- PM_a015_shifterMIA
- DI_a089_sccmMIA
- EPBR_a181_TooStepGradeToPark (which explains rolling back on a hill when it died)
- BMS_a170_SW_Limp_Mode
- BMS_a088_SW_VcFront_MIA_InDrive
- EPBL_a118_VCFRONT_MIA
- EPBL_a117_VCLEFT_MIA
- EPBL_a116_VCRIGHT_MIA
- VCRIGHT_a118_VCFRONT_MIA
- VCRIGHT_a117_VCLEFT_MIA
- EPBR_a118_VCFRONT_MIA
- EPBR_a117_VCLEFT_MIA
- EPBR_a116_VCRIGHT_MIA
- EPBL_a182_OneEPBAppliedUnsecEnv
- PM_a066_pmfMIA
- PM_a007_ibstMIA (interestingly this lists all conditions as literally "to do", aka "this will never happen" )
- VCFRONT_a117_VCLEFT_MIA
- VCFRONT_a116_VCRIGHT_MIA
- VCFRONT_a091_CMPD_MIA
- DI_a105_cpMIA
- DIR_a158_ibstMIA
- DIR_a155_vcfrontMIA
- DIR_a110_brakeMIA
- DIR_a092_bmsMIA
- DIR_a040_difMIA
- PMR_a053_vcfrontMIA
- PMR_a017_brakeMIA
What's crucial, and probably very confusing during diagnostics, most of these errors were fetched by MCU at the same time and long after the car died. Thus, timestamps offered by the service mode are mostly useless. I wonder if Toolbox3 had any more data.
In case someone disbeliefs that all these just appeared at once here's a snippet as it takes multiple screens:
(is there a prize for concurrent number of errors all at once? ;D)
-----------
Avoiding the trigger condition (don't turn left sharply, especially on uneven ground) the car did ~5-6k miles so far and safely came back home. Since turning left cannot be fully avoided I also saw the following ones from time to time, but these may also be a red herring unrelated to the issue:
- DIF_a018_hwLVSupplyUV
- APS_w134_appMia
- VCFRONT_a059_inputResistanceHigh
- APP_w303_imuIrational (without any obvious trigger like aggressive driving)
- VCSEC_a220_TPMSSensorPairingNotCompleted (again, for no reason)
Disclaimer: not sanctioned, not recommended, not guaranteed to ever work, not approved by anyone but...:
If-you-are-lucky
=> Warning: this can lock you out of the car completely! First try it with frunk opened, if it doesn't work try closing the frunk and doing it again.
1. Grab your phone(s) and turn off BT on them to forcefully disable mobile keys
2. Grab your mobile card from the car!
3. Leave the car
4. Close ALL doors and let windows roll up
5. Stand away from ultrasound sensors to not trigger sentry (it's unknown if it's active in such state!)
6. Wait a few minutes. This is meant to ensure the car goes to sleep and CAN buses will be disabled/put in low-power mode
7. Try to unlock the car with the key card
8. If you're lucky everything will come back to normal and the car will function like nothing happened
If-you-are-unlucky-and-brave
So, the previous procedure may not work and simply lock you out of the car. I will be slightly speculating here as I'm not 100% sure as I couldn't A/B test every scenario. There seems to be a small but not really dangerous loophole: the frunk can be opened even if the LVB isn't drained with the emergency release. It seems to work with a car that has the 16V Li-Ion battery and VCFRONT that cannot communicate with anything.
1. Release the frunk with emergency release (see Tesla guide: Model Y Owner's Manual | Tesla). Using a single 9V battery will not work, around 12V voltage source is needed. In 16V cars using two 9V batteries shouldn't cause any damage, but this is just my knowledge from EE.
2. Disconnect LVB. Check service manual for details, but on Y it requires either very small hands or a 10mm socket to remove/lift filter housing
3. Disconnect first responder loop
4. Wait ~10 minutes
5. Connect first responder loop
6. Connect LVB
7. Wait until the car boots
8. You should be able to unlock the car with the key card. The phone key doesn't seem to work after that without using the card first.
These steps are way less sanctioned and anyone trying them should REALLY read the service documents first - there are some important warning and very big red messages there (e.g. you must turn off HVAC before pulling LVB). I don't know the significance, but the order of steps seems to be critical here.
Another service center is taking a stab at it now
They will probably try with the main body harness replacement.I will update after it's resolved or any progress is made as this is quite of an interesting case that puzzled a few techs already.
incredibly frustrating but appreciate your measured summaries of what's going on.
look forward to seeing what the resolution is but your troubleshooting is great, should it happen to others (hopefully not!)
look forward to seeing what the resolution is but your troubleshooting is great, should it happen to others (hopefully not!)
whitex
Well-Known Member
Getting stuck without a charge is bad, but far from worst things that could happen to you on a road trip. Head-on collision with a tractor trailer at highway speeds, falling asleep and driving off a side of a mountain, someone running a red light and t-boning your car, getting shot by road raging driver, getting held-up, etc, - all much worse than running out of fuel. I've never ran out of fuel, ICE or EV, but if that were to happen, sucks, but not the end of the world. Heck, I'd take that over a simple fender bender accident.
There are very few places in the US where you really need to plan ahead on charging. Most places, you just let the car worry about it and follow it's instructions. If you have a CCS adapter (and your car has that function enabled) it's even less likely that you'll run out of charge.
Did they replace your inverter?As promised adding all the codes the car tossed when dying on the road, so that google can index it. Some of them were still active after car mysteriously came to life for a handful of hours, some of them appeared multiple times in recents.
- DIR_a234_pcsMIA
- DIF_a234_pcsMIA
- GTW_w109_failedToStartUpdater
- GTW_w072_updateFailure
- VCLEFT_a182_emergencyLatchRel (can be ignored, that was the only way to open the door)
- PM_a015_shifterMIA
- DI_a089_sccmMIA
- EPBR_a181_TooStepGradeToPark (which explains rolling back on a hill when it died)
- BMS_a170_SW_Limp_Mode
- BMS_a088_SW_VcFront_MIA_InDrive
- EPBL_a118_VCFRONT_MIA
- EPBL_a117_VCLEFT_MIA
- EPBL_a116_VCRIGHT_MIA
- VCRIGHT_a118_VCFRONT_MIA
- VCRIGHT_a117_VCLEFT_MIA
- EPBR_a118_VCFRONT_MIA
- EPBR_a117_VCLEFT_MIA
- EPBR_a116_VCRIGHT_MIA
- EPBL_a182_OneEPBAppliedUnsecEnv
- PM_a066_pmfMIA
- PM_a007_ibstMIA (interestingly this lists all conditions as literally "to do", aka "this will never happen"
- VCFRONT_a117_VCLEFT_MIA
- VCFRONT_a116_VCRIGHT_MIA
- VCFRONT_a091_CMPD_MIA
- DI_a105_cpMIA
- DIR_a158_ibstMIA
- DIR_a155_vcfrontMIA
- DIR_a110_brakeMIA
- DIR_a092_bmsMIA
- DIR_a040_difMIA
- PMR_a053_vcfrontMIA
- PMR_a017_brakeMIA
What's crucial, and probably very confusing during diagnostics, most of these errors were fetched by MCU at the same time and long after the car died. Thus, timestamps offered by the service mode are mostly useless. I wonder if Toolbox3 had any more data.
In case someone disbeliefs that all these just appeared at once here's a snippet as it takes multiple screens:
View attachment 961275
(is there a prize for concurrent number of errors all at once? ;D)
-----------
Avoiding the trigger condition (don't turn left sharply, especially on uneven ground) the car did ~5-6k miles so far and safely came back home. Since turning left cannot be fully avoided I also saw the following ones from time to time, but these may also be a red herring unrelated to the issue:
-----------
- DIF_a018_hwLVSupplyUV
- APS_w134_appMia
- VCFRONT_a059_inputResistanceHigh
- APP_w303_imuIrational (without any obvious trigger like aggressive driving)
- VCSEC_a220_TPMSSensorPairingNotCompleted (again, for no reason)
Disclaimer: not sanctioned, not recommended, not guaranteed to ever work, not approved by anyone but...:
If-you-are-lucky
=> Warning: this can lock you out of the car completely! First try it with frunk opened, if it doesn't work try closing the frunk and doing it again.
1. Grab your phone(s) and turn off BT on them to forcefully disable mobile keys
2. Grab your mobile card from the car!
3. Leave the car
4. Close ALL doors and let windows roll up
5. Stand away from ultrasound sensors to not trigger sentry (it's unknown if it's active in such state!)
6. Wait a few minutes. This is meant to ensure the car goes to sleep and CAN buses will be disabled/put in low-power mode
7. Try to unlock the car with the key card
8. If you're lucky everything will come back to normal and the car will function like nothing happened
If-you-are-unlucky-and-brave
So, the previous procedure may not work and simply lock you out of the car. I will be slightly speculating here as I'm not 100% sure as I couldn't A/B test every scenario. There seems to be a small but not really dangerous loophole: the frunk can be opened even if the LVB isn't drained with the emergency release. It seems to work with a car that has the 16V Li-Ion battery and VCFRONT that cannot communicate with anything.
1. Release the frunk with emergency release (see Tesla guide: Model Y Owner's Manual | Tesla). Using a single 9V battery will not work, around 12V voltage source is needed. In 16V cars using two 9V batteries shouldn't cause any damage, but this is just my knowledge from EE.
2. Disconnect LVB. Check service manual for details, but on Y it requires either very small hands or a 10mm socket to remove/lift filter housing
3. Disconnect first responder loop
4. Wait ~10 minutes
5. Connect first responder loop
6. Connect LVB
7. Wait until the car boots
8. You should be able to unlock the car with the key card. The phone key doesn't seem to work after that without using the card first.
These steps are way less sanctioned and anyone trying them should REALLY read the service documents first - there are some important warning and very big red messages there (e.g. you must turn off HVAC before pulling LVB). I don't know the significance, but the order of steps seems to be critical here.
I'm suffering a similar issue.
Brand New MYP with a little over 3000km. After a sharp right turn over uneven surface I got a lot of beeps with red blinking screen saying to stop the car because it was shutting down, altogether with rear wheels locking.
At first it felt like the car slipped due to gas excess and TC cutting torque, but the all the alerts and beeping went on.
After exit and re entering the car I was able to drive it again but with power reduced/speed limited message.
Roadside assistance made me nipple-reset the car and fully turn it off for 5 min (Wich did nothing) and they opened and urgent ticket to the closest service center next day. After running some errands and returning to the car to go home the messages were gone. But for safety I went to the SC next day. They took the car in and seems they are replacing the inverter (P100D loaner BTW
)At this point I only have 3 messages related to this in the service menu. One of them is one of yours. Interesting thing is I have the same unrelated door opened while driving you have.
I'm attaching some screenshots below.
Attachments
whitex
Well-Known Member
Perhaps that's Elon thinking ahead, should you ever try to sue, they could show the warning as evidence of the driver doing something they shouldn't have. A legal CYA mitigation strategy.
Your patience is remarkable, and your willingness to give credit where credit is due is quite honorable. But, realistically, in view of Tesla’s inability, to date, to fix your car, would you consider utilizing your state’s lemon laws?Another service center is taking a stab at it now
I will update after it's resolved or any progress is made as this is quite of an interesting case that puzzled a few techs already.
Similar threads
