You can install our site as a web app on your iOS device by utilizing the Add to Home Screen feature in Safari. Please see this thread for more details on this.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
I had the same issue originally and then stopped working completely. All I can do is open from inside and the actuator makes noise trying to open but won't work. The actuator replacement solved my issue.My door actuator works but the door sticks sometimes. Only way is to go through passenger door to unlock it. I can see the actuator is working but we think the calibration is off
According to EPC, that part number is for passenger sideHas anyone had issues with the actual pop control module not the actuator? PN: 1045354-00-B
This statement makes no sense as we're discussing the 'actuator that pushes the door open' aka pop actuatorIt's a $13 actuator, stop avoiding it's replacement before something WAY more expensive breaks like the actuator that pushed the door open.
I assumed it was the actuator that physically pushed the door open since I watched a Rich Rebuilds video and his tech had mentioned that the ball end of the door actuators are known to fail and was the cause for the door not opening electronically but the physical interior door handle still worked fine. One day I noticed the door was in fact still trying to push itself open when hitting the outside button on the door. Ends up the actuator that pulled on the latch wasn't releasing...I took the door panel off and noticed the little actuator to release the latch beforehand was weak and not pulling the cord hard enough.That statement makes no sense as we're discussing the 'actuator that pushes the door open' aka pop actuator
no hard feelings, i just interpreted it as if u were talking about same thing..I assumed it was the actuator that physically pushed the door open since I watched a Rich Rebuilds video and his tech had mentioned that the ball end of the door actuators are known to fail and was the cause for the door not opening electronically but the physical interior door handle still worked fine. One day I noticed the door was in fact still trying to push itself open when hitting the outside button on the door. Ends up the actuator that pulled on the latch wasn't releasing...I took the door panel off and noticed the little actuator to release the latch beforehand was weak and not pulling the cord hard enough.
While you say my statement makes no sense, the title of the thread isn't specific enough as to WHAT part failed, just a vague issue...mine technically didn't push open either so I'm giving my .02 because I assumed the same thing you did based on what I mentioned above after watching a video. Laugh it up, I'm just trying to help since I, unlike most Tesla owners, don't run to the dealership for EVERYTHING.
reviving an old thread, how come when I remove the door panel, I don't see the actuator? I checked some youtube videos and they don't show the actuator either. yet service manual says it should be there. am I missing something?Yes, there's videos on YouTube showing how to remove the door panel, after that it's pretty straight forward...one connector and three clips.
Doh! So for original lock, would I change out the actual latch component? Anyone know the part number?u have original lock, the one with actuator is retrofit
i guess original locks were failing a lot (but they were all in one kinda thing) so tesla retrofitted to diff design that has 3 pieces instead of one...
fyi, original locks were also used in McLaren
and also, retrofit needs ToolBox to change a setting...
Doh! So for original lock, would I change out the actual latch component? Anyone know the part number?
thanks! mine is exact same problem. it opens maybe 1 cm, stops for few seconds, then opens all the way, but with lots of motor and whirring noises, and ice breaker pops out. SC quoting me 1k to do full retrofit for BOTH doors (roughly 300+ in parts, and 600+ in labor!). so I am trying out the cheaper route first. the RH part seems easy to find on ebay, but the LH part seems very scarce.This is what i have found (Tesla doesn't sell these anymore):
LH, Tesla, 1084918, 1055396
RH, Tesla: 1084917, 1055397
McLaren 650s seems to be using same locks but opposite sides cause locks installed upside down (i believe it needs cable swapped though).
Visually 2 different types but could just be a cover, didn't take mine out yet to verify...
View attachment 934581
View attachment 934582
McLaren:
View attachment 934583
Whats your issue?
My drivers door opens only one click then does its ice-breaker thing n opens all the way unless i pull on the door same time as pressing the button...
A bit annoying but haven't got around to fixing it yet..
yeap seems the same issue.thanks! mine is exact same problem. it opens maybe 1 cm, stops for few seconds, then opens all the way, but with lots of motor and whirring noises, and ice breaker pops out. SC quoting me 1k to do full retrofit for BOTH doors (roughly 300+ in parts, and 600+ in labor!). so I am trying out the cheaper route first. the RH part seems easy to find on ebay, but the LH part seems very scarce.
yeap seems the same issue.
i bet all driver sides fail hence lack of parts...
we're the unlucky ones with original latches that lasted past warranty haha
when i'll find some time i'll dig into it n report back whats causing the issue.
hopefully the failing part can be salvaged from passenger side..