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Model S gets lighted vanity mirrors
- Thread starter SucreTease
- Start date
order them at https://tesland.com/en/product/vanity-mirror-in-sunvisor/ they look nicer than the new style ones with their flimsy iPad like covers.
You are right, that is just an upgraded old school type.They are ugly and look old school IMO
newer type's can be upgraded in the same way.
That's a non starter as they use the original mirror which is about an inch shorter than the redesigned factory ones.
true as i said above. That is an old type which is upgraded with lights.
They do the new ones also. It depends on the visors you sent them..
I'm confused. Doesn't the new type already have the lights or are you saying they redesigned the vanity mirrors after 2015 before they added lighting?
artsci
Sponsor
Right, but mine is from 2015 and still about an inch shorter than the current ipad cover mirrors.
I'm trying. I have a source who is trying to get it now. My previous attempt was at one of the certified body shops who said they couldn't order it until it appeared in the parts catalog which is their way of saying they just don't want to do it as they could still get the part number from Tesla if they really wanted to order it.
artsci
Sponsor
JPP
Active Member
But will the color and fabric match your existing interior? I have a 2013 S85 with the light colored fabric headliner. My wife's 2015 has the black Alcantara. I assume current production of the lighted visors is with the current color and fabric scheme for Model S.
kev1n
Active Member
I dont have a part number but i was quoted $150 each and they are not a plug n play with the older models.
the mount is different but i could not get any info beyond that from my local service center.
i did take a look myself and they do look different but i cant see whats under the headliner
alwaysru
Member
I love the new mirrors - about the size of an iPhone X and the light is very even. Quite jealous of my neighbor and his new 100D that has them as well as the new "darker" plastic interior!
JPP
Active Member
So I finally decided to tackle the retrofit of the current production sun visors with the lighted vanity mirrors into my wife’s 2015 S70D. This has really made her day—it has been one of her pet peeves since delivery.
Here is how I approached the install:
I had previously been in contact with Herbie from the Netherlands (see upthread), who had been doing custom retrofits (using your old original visor). He had sussed out that many S had the proper connector as part of the wiring harness under the headliner. He found a wiring diagram showing the proper 2-pin connectors, with yellow/green striped +12V and black ground wires. I knew that I needed to figure out the 12V power situation. I had been up under the headliner in both my 2013 S85 and her S, searching for the connectors and 12V for the visor mirrors. I knew that some early 2012-2014 builds did have the +12V/gnd and the proper connector glued to the headliner near the visor mounts (George Blankenship, the early Sales VP under Elon in 2012 through 2014, had actually gone on record promising lighted visor mirrors and a retrofit). I was actually able to locate my visor power connectors (but don’t plan to do the retrofit as I am selling my 2013 S when my ‘full spec’ Performance Model 3 arrives next month--plus the current lighted visors don’t come in the old light colored fabric to match my old 2013 headliner). This is my 2013 connector with the proper color-coded wiring (for reference):
I was unfortunately not able to find the proper connectors and 12V power under my wife’s headliner. No worries-I knew that I had 12V under the microphone grille in the headliner used for EU cars with the interior intrusion sensor on the security system (where I previously connected the Blackvue dash cam). You get at this by pulling down the back lip of the grille (opposite from the windshield) and the cover swings down to reveal the microphones and the unused connector (if you are fortunate to have it).
To begin, I first deinstalled the old sun visors. You pop off the sort of C shaped trim cover over the visor mounting bracket with a spudger or small flat screwdriver, then use a Torx driver to unscrew the single screw. The visor mounting bracket sort of rotates down towards the rear of the car and then the tab slides out of the metal bracket welded to the underside of the roof. I took the old visors, and carefully matched up the mounting brackets to the new lighted ones. As I had hoped, Tesla did not re-engineer the bracket very much (just a center hole for the red/black wires and a clip to hold the connector).
Here are some photos of the new visors in the packaging:
Here is the new bracket:
You can see the small white male 2-pin connector clipped to the top of the new bracket. Also note the new bracket cover which dangles below the bracket.
Here is the invoice with part numbers (you need to pay attention to color):
I then needed to loosen up the headliner a bit. I pulled out the plastic caps on the upper A pillar trim (labeled Airbag) using a small flat bladed screwdriver, and unscrewed the small hex head bolt (don’t lose the flat washer underneath). Here is the cap flipped up and the bolt loosened:
Then I pulled the upper end of the A pillar trim away (I did not pull out the bottom at the dash). Be careful as the side curtain airbag is up there. With this loosened, I could pull the headliner down a bit in the front. You would probably do this if you were doing a dash cam install (as I had done before). Note that I did not need to unscrew the small bracket closer to the rear view mirror where the center side of the visor clips into.
I fished new red and black wires from the center 12V supply to the openings for the LH and RH visor mounts (I used a cut off length of thin wire coathanger). I cut off the small white 2-pin connector on the new visors (I was not going to be able to use it, and did not feel like sourcing the proper female connectors and pins for a ‘quick connect’ install). I stripped the very short red and black wires at the new visor bracket, and soldered on the new wires I fished, and then protected them with heat shrink tubing. I installed the new visors by sliding the tongue of the bracket back towards the rear of the car (being careful to not crimp the wires, as they are fished over the headliner but under the metal mount for the visor), and did a quick 12V test to be sure that the mirror lights did in fact work. I then screwed the brackets down with the Torx screws and snapped in the new bracket covers (already attached). I pushed the headliner back up, and pulled the door gasket back over to hold it. I then reinstalled the A pillar trim (pushed it in and snapped the clip into place, then secured it with the bolt and washer).
I then went back to the microphone area in the center of the headliner, and used PosiTaps to grab +12V (grey wire on my connector) and ground (black wire on my connector) from the unused 3 wire connector at the microphone (being careful to not disrupt my Blackvue wiring). Tested again, all good. Here is the new driver’s/LH side with the lighted vanity mirror:
Yes, the new visors/lighted mirrors are connected to always on 12V, but I know that even if my wife accidentally leaves one of the visor mirror covers open, the main traction pack will keep the 12V battery topped off via the DC-to-DC converter, so no worries.
I would rate this as moderately difficult—you need to have time and patience, either to try to find the proper existing 12V connector (with the green/yellow hot wire and black ground), which might be glued to the headliner in one of several places (or glued to a wire bundle), or to fish new 12V power. Be sure to meter out your 12V before committing to using it, as some connectors and wiring look right but are not 12V (probably Canbus) and you will get odd voltages (I found several unused connectors up in the headliner, but none with the proper color code or voltage).
Oh and BTW, the new visors do have a sliding mechanism to move them back about 3-4 inches…better than nothing.
Good luck.
Here is how I approached the install:
I had previously been in contact with Herbie from the Netherlands (see upthread), who had been doing custom retrofits (using your old original visor). He had sussed out that many S had the proper connector as part of the wiring harness under the headliner. He found a wiring diagram showing the proper 2-pin connectors, with yellow/green striped +12V and black ground wires. I knew that I needed to figure out the 12V power situation. I had been up under the headliner in both my 2013 S85 and her S, searching for the connectors and 12V for the visor mirrors. I knew that some early 2012-2014 builds did have the +12V/gnd and the proper connector glued to the headliner near the visor mounts (George Blankenship, the early Sales VP under Elon in 2012 through 2014, had actually gone on record promising lighted visor mirrors and a retrofit). I was actually able to locate my visor power connectors (but don’t plan to do the retrofit as I am selling my 2013 S when my ‘full spec’ Performance Model 3 arrives next month--plus the current lighted visors don’t come in the old light colored fabric to match my old 2013 headliner). This is my 2013 connector with the proper color-coded wiring (for reference):
I was unfortunately not able to find the proper connectors and 12V power under my wife’s headliner. No worries-I knew that I had 12V under the microphone grille in the headliner used for EU cars with the interior intrusion sensor on the security system (where I previously connected the Blackvue dash cam). You get at this by pulling down the back lip of the grille (opposite from the windshield) and the cover swings down to reveal the microphones and the unused connector (if you are fortunate to have it).
To begin, I first deinstalled the old sun visors. You pop off the sort of C shaped trim cover over the visor mounting bracket with a spudger or small flat screwdriver, then use a Torx driver to unscrew the single screw. The visor mounting bracket sort of rotates down towards the rear of the car and then the tab slides out of the metal bracket welded to the underside of the roof. I took the old visors, and carefully matched up the mounting brackets to the new lighted ones. As I had hoped, Tesla did not re-engineer the bracket very much (just a center hole for the red/black wires and a clip to hold the connector).
Here are some photos of the new visors in the packaging:
Here is the new bracket:
You can see the small white male 2-pin connector clipped to the top of the new bracket. Also note the new bracket cover which dangles below the bracket.
Here is the invoice with part numbers (you need to pay attention to color):
I then needed to loosen up the headliner a bit. I pulled out the plastic caps on the upper A pillar trim (labeled Airbag) using a small flat bladed screwdriver, and unscrewed the small hex head bolt (don’t lose the flat washer underneath). Here is the cap flipped up and the bolt loosened:
Then I pulled the upper end of the A pillar trim away (I did not pull out the bottom at the dash). Be careful as the side curtain airbag is up there. With this loosened, I could pull the headliner down a bit in the front. You would probably do this if you were doing a dash cam install (as I had done before). Note that I did not need to unscrew the small bracket closer to the rear view mirror where the center side of the visor clips into.
I fished new red and black wires from the center 12V supply to the openings for the LH and RH visor mounts (I used a cut off length of thin wire coathanger). I cut off the small white 2-pin connector on the new visors (I was not going to be able to use it, and did not feel like sourcing the proper female connectors and pins for a ‘quick connect’ install). I stripped the very short red and black wires at the new visor bracket, and soldered on the new wires I fished, and then protected them with heat shrink tubing. I installed the new visors by sliding the tongue of the bracket back towards the rear of the car (being careful to not crimp the wires, as they are fished over the headliner but under the metal mount for the visor), and did a quick 12V test to be sure that the mirror lights did in fact work. I then screwed the brackets down with the Torx screws and snapped in the new bracket covers (already attached). I pushed the headliner back up, and pulled the door gasket back over to hold it. I then reinstalled the A pillar trim (pushed it in and snapped the clip into place, then secured it with the bolt and washer).
I then went back to the microphone area in the center of the headliner, and used PosiTaps to grab +12V (grey wire on my connector) and ground (black wire on my connector) from the unused 3 wire connector at the microphone (being careful to not disrupt my Blackvue wiring). Tested again, all good. Here is the new driver’s/LH side with the lighted vanity mirror:
Yes, the new visors/lighted mirrors are connected to always on 12V, but I know that even if my wife accidentally leaves one of the visor mirror covers open, the main traction pack will keep the 12V battery topped off via the DC-to-DC converter, so no worries.
I would rate this as moderately difficult—you need to have time and patience, either to try to find the proper existing 12V connector (with the green/yellow hot wire and black ground), which might be glued to the headliner in one of several places (or glued to a wire bundle), or to fish new 12V power. Be sure to meter out your 12V before committing to using it, as some connectors and wiring look right but are not 12V (probably Canbus) and you will get odd voltages (I found several unused connectors up in the headliner, but none with the proper color code or voltage).
Oh and BTW, the new visors do have a sliding mechanism to move them back about 3-4 inches…better than nothing.
Good luck.
mbhforum
Active Member
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