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Most vehicle placard pressures haven't been 30-32 since the 1970s. Unfortunately, the myth of 30-32 psi is still strong in the automotive service industry so millions of tires are under-inflated. TPMS doesn't help because, unless you change it, it's set at the factory to alert when the pressure is 25% low. In other words, when it alerts the tires are already in a serious world of hurt.

Something to know about tire pressures:

1. All load/inflation tables are based on 65 F (18 C) ambient temperature. If the day is hotter than that you need to adjust the pressures upwards to compensate (there are charts). If it's very cold out, inflation is done in a relatively warm garage or shop and the inflation pressure needs to be adjusted upwards to compensate as well.

2. The vehicle placard pressures are based on the typical load the engineers think the car will be used at. This may not be the full GWV. On a vacation trip you have to compensate for this.

3. Pressures need to be raised to compensate for speed. Presumably cars expected to be driven fast such as the Model S already have this built in. However, family sedans typically have pressures based on a maximum sustained speed of 65 mph. Go faster and you need to increase.

4. The load inflation tables are based on a pressure check every driving day before you travel more than a mile (slowly). If you don't check your pressures daily, then you need to compensate so that they never go below what they should be.

Heat kills tires, not pressure.

Don't exceed the cold pressure maximum on the sidewalls when inflation tires first thing in the morning.

Get a good pressure gauge. This means spend $70 - $150 on one. A good gauge can be calibrated and will last a lifetime. Digital is more expensive, but not more accurate.

Great information. Thanks.

I don't want to take this too far off topic but have you thought of starting a thread in maybe
Cars and Transportation
that reviews some of this information and your recommendations for general tire care/maintenance or anything else you think is useful for general public in this area? Thanks again.
 
Get a good pressure gauge. This means spend $70 - $150 on one. A good gauge can be calibrated and will last a lifetime. Digital is more expensive, but not more accurate.
I get the impression you know what you're talking about. :) Can you provide some examples of "good" pressure gauges? Thanks. Shopping for such things gives me something car-productive to do while waiting for the call.
 
Can you provide some examples of "good" pressure gauges?

Here are two examples from Longacre: 50406 or model 50404 One attaches to your inflation hose, and the other is just a gauge. These are nice because they are meant for car tires and only go to 60 psi. That makes the dial very easy to read. Most are like the Powertank and go to 160 psi, which is fine for truck tires.

On the 50406 (the one that attaches to the hose) you'll want to replace the hose that it comes with (which is short and awkward to use) with a longer hose (1 to 1.5 metres) and a clip-on chuck. The chuck shown here fits into hard to get areas much easier than the ball type chuck. I'm not sure what they were thinking of when they put on the short hose, must be some bean-counter's decision.
 
Get a good pressure gauge. This means spend $70 - $150 on one. A good gauge can be calibrated and will last a lifetime. Digital is more expensive, but not more accurate.

So not one of these?

PenStyleTireGauge.jpg


I seem to have about 5 in my car at any one time. Although 3 are gold in color!