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Manual Heat Not Blowing Hot above 8

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Here's a data point for everyone. I'm still on 28.1. I do NOT use the Auto setting. I normally keep the fan speed at 1, the temp at 68/69 and only blow air up on the windshield. Got in the car this morning and turned up the fan and temp (to 80). Felt warm air up until fan speed 8 and then it starting cooling down some. 9 and 10 were about the same. Temperature outside was about 57 and I only played around with the climate controls for the first 5 minutes.

I wonder if the heater ramps up amps in order to target some output air temperature from the fan system. It is capable of ramping power output up until level nine and ten. At that point, too much air is flowing over and the heater is at max. So if the outlet air is below your skin temp you will feel it as cold.

Plausible? Or is this a software issue and it is not running the heater at max for those fan speeds for some reason?
 
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Something I noticed yesterday when I was trying to melt ice on my windshield while driving was that the front windoe defroster blows nice and hot at high speed. So for the moment if I need to crank the heat I just turn that on. Kinda crazy how unoptimized the model 3 is for cold weather. Hopefully with updates this will get better.
 
Appears to be either intentional by design or a bug as we haven't seen any M3 owners claim theirs works properly. There are few things I miss about my ICE... but right now in the sub zero weather I do miss blasting hot air to quickly warm me and kiddos up when we get in the car.

If it is intentional, Tesla should have implemented a better management system for users. For example only let the heat go up to 8, don't give us the option to get annoyed (teased) by 9/10 blower options. Or better yet, flash a warning that states "this will consume major battery, or you sure?"....
 
Found this on another forum.
This may be a possible problem.
My heat started getting wonky when it started snowing a lot.
I’m wondering if snow and ice pieces have fallen down the intake under the Frunk into the business end of the heater ... ?

FROM THE OTHER FORUM:
“I had same issue i have to take it in. They gave me a loner for the day. It only took from 8:30 Am to 4:30 pm to fix. This is what they found straight from the invoice. Concern: Customer: Defroster and heat from A/C are not working; doesn't get hot. Tried resetting car, turning a/c off also, nothing works. Both passenger and driver temperatures are synced.
ServiceCorrections: Cabin HVAC General DiagnosisTested operation of heat and defroster. Confirmed heat inoperative. Reviewed vehicle log data. Found faults present for heater signal. Performed inspection of heater assembly. Found water ingress into connectors and dirt/debris. Performed thorough cleaning of connections and re-seated connectors. Performed function testing. Verified system now operating as expected with no faults.”
 
Found this on another forum.
This may be a possible problem.
My heat started getting wonky when it started snowing a lot.
I’m wondering if snow and ice pieces have fallen down the intake under the Frunk into the business end of the heater ... ?

FROM THE OTHER FORUM:
“I had same issue i have to take it in. They gave me a loner for the day. It only took from 8:30 Am to 4:30 pm to fix. This is what they found straight from the invoice. Concern: Customer: Defroster and heat from A/C are not working; doesn't get hot. Tried resetting car, turning a/c off also, nothing works. Both passenger and driver temperatures are synced.
ServiceCorrections: Cabin HVAC General DiagnosisTested operation of heat and defroster. Confirmed heat inoperative. Reviewed vehicle log data. Found faults present for heater signal. Performed inspection of heater assembly. Found water ingress into connectors and dirt/debris. Performed thorough cleaning of connections and re-seated connectors. Performed function testing. Verified system now operating as expected with no faults.”

Interesting. I've had the issue both on snowy and non-snowy day's. Honestly I don't think it's ever blown hot on HI / 8-10 setting. I think the fact that Romance mode allows the vehicle to blow on HI / super hot points more to a software bug or limitation... opposed to environmental issue.
 
Interesting. I've had the issue both on snowy and non-snowy day's. Honestly I don't think it's ever blown hot on HI / 8-10 setting. I think the fact that Romance mode allows the vehicle to blow on HI / super hot points more to a software bug or limitation... opposed to environmental issue.

Ya, I think I agree with you.
If there was more consistency with it not working, I would think snow and ice in the intake may be a factor, but since it works in certain situations and not others, it wouldn’t make much sense that snow and ice is the root cause.
It was a long shot, that I thought might help the speculation. :)
 
Can anyone verify if they don’t have this problem? Meaning can any M3 owner crank heat in HI at level 10 blower and get blasting hot heat?

I don't ever do this...if I want the cabin warmer I set the system on Auto and dial in the temperature that I want. IME, that has been the fastest way between two temperature points. Jumping over to manual / Hi doesn't accelerate heating very much (if at all).
 
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This morning was about -18 celcius which is about -4 F.
I preheated the car on shore power (plugged in to a HPWC for about an hour. )

At those temps the regen normally has full restriction.
After the hour preheat, I had about half regen restricted only.

I don’t recall seeing any significant battery heating like that while parked before.

If this is new, it might also have the impact some are seeing on the heaters.
Who knows. ?
I’m sure others can chime in, if they have seen this before already
 
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Manual sucks, some time i got Cold air instead of Hot.
but what i hate most that i can not adjust any Auto modes. In my BMWs when turn on windshield heating, fan first goes to MAX rpm and i usually slow it down about half, to reduce noise. It still stays on Auto and heat on Windshield. If I adjust Fan speed on my Model 3 it immediately goes back to manual mode and turns Windshield heat off.
 
I don't ever do this...if I want the cabin warmer I set the system on Auto and dial in the temperature that I want. IME, that has been the fastest way between two temperature points. Jumping over to manual / Hi doesn't accelerate heating very much (if at all).

It certainly doesn't acclerate when it blows cold air, that is the whole point we're discussing. I do the same thing as yourself only because that is the only option (ie. AUTO and wait). The point of this topic is allowing the driver to utilize manual HIGH heat would allow a quicker cabin warm up over AUTO, a capability that many desire.
 
Not much more to add to this thread at this point as everything said is what I experience as well. so, uh, +1 I guess.... :)

I do find it odd that on manual fan at 10 and heat at HI blows coolish air. I took my IR temp gun and measured. on Defrost (red) I was able to get the max of 40c temp of air out of the vents, however on HI and manual fan it was only 21c temp I could get. When I put it on auto and temp setting to 22 I was able to get 36c out of the vents (the interior cabin temp was obviously much cooler).

I initially thought there was something wrong with the heater so I took measurements, however based on settings it is able to blow out hot air so I am leaning towards software...

Anyone else want to take a IR temp gun and do some measure are various settings and post them here?
 
Not much more to add to this thread at this point as everything said is what I experience as well. so, uh, +1 I guess.... :)

I do find it odd that on manual fan at 10 and heat at HI blows coolish air. I took my IR temp gun and measured. on Defrost (red) I was able to get the max of 40c temp of air out of the vents, however on HI and manual fan it was only 21c temp I could get. When I put it on auto and temp setting to 22 I was able to get 36c out of the vents (the interior cabin temp was obviously much cooler).

I initially thought there was something wrong with the heater so I took measurements, however based on settings it is able to blow out hot air so I am leaning towards software...

Anyone else want to take a IR temp gun and do some measure are various settings and post them here?

I also took temp readings and got very similar results you did.
 
17303CCA-6F31-41B6-BD39-B2664C732F08.jpeg
Just took this pic tonight.
These temps are just wrong.
Sorry for the blurry pic.
 
you live in Chicago so if you select the button for de-froging the front windshield then it takes the air from outside. If you want hot air, you need to make sure that it recirculates the air from inside. That's all there is to it, your car doesn't have a problem
 
you live in Chicago so if you select the button for de-froging the front windshield then it takes the air from outside. If you want hot air, you need to make sure that it recirculates the air from inside. That's all there is to it, your car doesn't have a problem

This isn't the case it blows cold air on HI at 10 whether recirculation is selected or not. Something is not functioning right in the software build. I'm curious what the shop tech's would say... I can't imagine they haven't had others come in and complain.