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Kevin Sharpe's decreased Roadster range

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Does OVMS report the percentage based on the entire battery, or does it hide the bottom 10%-15% like the car does in standard mode?
I don't know, rarely ever dropped to the bottom like that. MarkWJ would know, for sure. I'm trying to remember what I experienced when I brought up the question on my wife's CPO Roadster (15 mile drop in the first year of CPO Ownership (years 5-6 of the car, assumed).)

Logically, I would think that it would report what the car is reporting, so it might hide the bottom 10-15% of the car in Standard Mode. I am almost positive that the OVMS display changes depending on whether one is in Standard or Range Mode. HOWEVER, the responses via Text commands seem to be more diagnostic, so that might be accurate (also incorporated in OVMS, not as friendly as IOS or Android App, however.)
 
Does OVMS report the percentage based on the entire battery, or does it hide the bottom 10%-15% like the car does in standard mode?
OVMS reports the battery percent, the same number that drives the battery indicator on the touch screen. If the screen is in Standard mode, it tells you the Standard mode percent, likewise for Range mode. When the car gets down to about 10% (in whatever mode you are showing), the touch screen stops displaying the ideal miles but continues to show the battery image gauge. OVMS tells you the battery percent and ideal miles at all times.

The SOC numbers you get back from the STAT text message to OVMS are the same as what's shown on the smartphone app.

According to his most recent log file, Kevin started at 98% SOC, drove 164.9 miles to end at 4% SOC. The log file always reports range mode percent regardless of what mode the car is in.
 
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Does OVMS report the percentage based on the entire battery, or does it hide the bottom 10%-15% like the car does in standard mode?
This trip was driven in range mode and OVMS is reporting what 'remains' in the battery... in my experience it is extremely accurate... indeed if it wasn't I'd have been dumped on the side of the road last night because the reduced car range almost caught me out (I had to slow down to 50MPH while on the motorway and 30 miles from home because range was dropping fast).

I believe the 44.34kWh figure is correct and entirely consistent with my battery problems.
 
I have #87 (originally Paul Haggis's). 16,200 miles. In standard mode it is now only charging to 105 miles. I'm a little less upset about it than Kevin, because it's a 6 year old electric car, and I didn't get it CPO, so it was a risk I took when I bought it and frankly was factored into what I paid for the car.

But it went from charging to about 145 miles in standard mode to charging to 105 miles in standard range in a period of about 3 months over this past hot summer.

I e-mailed my local service guy, and he hasn't even responded to my e-mail yet. It sounds like he probably doesn't have anything he can tell me w/r/t when to expect the 400 mile range upgrade pack, or how much it might cost.

I'm glad this thread exists (if anyone reads it this far) because I now know I'm going to have to pull the data, and that I should also contribute to the plug-in database.

Anyway, that's the facts from here.
 
I have #87 (originally Paul Haggis's). 16,200 miles. In standard mode it is now only charging to 105 miles. (snip) But it went from charging to about 145 miles in standard mode to charging to 105 miles in standard range in a period of about 3 months over this past hot summer.

It would be extremely helpful to the community if you could share your logs. Such extreme cases are always an education.
 
It would be extremely helpful to the community if you could share your logs. Such extreme cases are always an education.

I just tried to download VehicleLogs to a usb drive tonight, at the same time I also tried charging it in Range mode for the first time ever (since I've owned it). But the usb drive didn't download. I'll try again tomorrow. I reformatted the 1GB USB to FAT32, but I just created a folder called VehicleLogs... not sure how to make it a "root" folder. Everything I read said you can't use a drive bigger than 2 or 4, so it wasn't the size of the drive that was the problem. I am assuming it can't charge and download data at the same time. If anyone has other ideas, I'm all ears.
 
I just tried to download VehicleLogs to a usb drive tonight, at the same time I also tried charging it in Range mode for the first time ever (since I've owned it). But the usb drive didn't download. I'll try again tomorrow. I reformatted the 1GB USB to FAT32, but I just created a folder called VehicleLogs... not sure how to make it a "root" folder. Everything I read said you can't use a drive bigger than 2 or 4, so it wasn't the size of the drive that was the problem. I am assuming it can't charge and download data at the same time. If anyone has other ideas, I'm all ears.

I've had this happen to my wife's Roadster 1.5 and it took some SC magic before we got it "freed up". USB was "locked up" or something like that.
 
I just tried to download VehicleLogs to a usb drive tonight..But the usb drive didn't download. I'll try again tomorrow. I reformatted the 1GB USB to FAT32, but I just created a folder called VehicleLogs... not sure how to make it a "root" folder.

"Root" just means it is a top level folder, not a folder inside another folder. And the folder name is case sensitive (like you had in your post).

The log files won't download when the car is charging. And the car key must be in the "On" position.
 
Mine doesn't require this. What version is your Roadster?
I think Tesla says that, but in my case (Roadster 2.0), I can do it with the key out and off position.
Capture.PNG


My thumb drive is formatted fat32, but it should work with fat16 too, I don't believe NTFS is supported.
 
Here are the initial results from yesterdays logs...

X is Brick #, Y is the SOC change between the snapshots I took yesterday.

Source Data Before Drive

Source Data After Drive

Source Data Before-After-Compare
I know the scale you chose for your chart is SOC delta change, and that the #8 does have the highest delta, however it is not the SOC delta that limits the battery pack but rather when it reaches 0% SOC (or an equivalent low SOC) vs the other cells. At most what the delta change will tell you is that given the delta change of the #8 brick is 8.34% above average, if you replaced #8 with an "average" brick, the amount of capacity you will get back is 8.34%/99 bricks = 0.08%, which is hardly significant.

What you really want is the analysis of the "After" snapshot and the SOCs of the various bricks. It shows #8 brick is 13.84% below average and #29 brick is 10.13% below average. So if you replace the #8 brick with an "average" brick, you get back 13.84-10.13 = 3.71% vs the average. If you replace the #29 also, the next limiting brick is #72 at 5.26% below average, so you get another 10.13-5.26= 4.87% versus average. Next limiting brick after is #45 at 4.66% below average and you start seeing diminishing returns (as you have multiple other bricks at or near 4% below average).

Edit: looks like the pack is at 40.7% SOC average assuming a 8192 divisor for your "after" log, and this might need to be multiplied with the 3.71% (I failed to do that previously). Will double check tomorrow if this is correct or to take the 3.71% directly.

3.71% is multiplied by 40.7% average SOC for a 1.5% SOC effect.

In absolute terms, using a 245 mile vs your 199 mile number, translates to #8 brick being responsible for ~1.2% absolute capacity loss.

Also I noticed your latest range charge got you 205 miles ideal, so you "gained" 6 miles (3%) over your reported 199 miles.
 
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Also I noticed your latest range charge got you 205 miles ideal, so you "gained" 6 miles (3%) over your reported 199 miles.
Correct, and my next range charge will be lower than 199 miles because my CAC is now 127.65 (and dropping every time I drive the car).

The fundamental issue here is we are looking at the battery today and arguing about whether it's within the limits of some blog post that Tesla wrote. In reality the only thing that really matters is the ESA which clearly says that if I can move the car then I must be ok. In the real world I now face the prospect of a car with rapidly decreasing range, no replacement parts, and a $22,000 'warranty' that doesn't help me.

I believe my Roadster battery has been 'faulty' from the day it was delivered. I believe Tesla attempted to correct that 'fault' in November/December 2011 and failed. The consequence of these actions give us the battery we have today, which while an outlier, clearly shows Tesla's current approach to battery degradation does not work.

Every single Roadster owner is on borrowed time. Tesla may deliver a replacement pack at an unknown price and unknown date in the future, but until we have some details all we know for certain is that keeping these car as on the road is getting more difficult by the day.
 
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In reality the only thing that really matters is the ESA which clearly says that if I can move the car then I must be ok.
That is YOUR negative interpretation that does not meet reality.

In the real world I now face the prospect of a car with rapidly decreasing range, no replacement parts, and a $22,000 'warranty' that doesn't help me.
You were faced with exactly the same prospect when you decided to buy the car. It was OK then, it is not OK now?

Or you are saying that a man that runs an EV charging network does not know that batteries degrade, some slower, other faster? If so, such ignorance is your own fault.
 
That is YOUR negative interpretation that does not meet reality.
That's a legal interpretation of the ESA and based on my communications with Tesla I have no reason to doubt it.

- - - Updated - - -

such ignorance is your own fault.
Was I ignorant to trust that Tesla would delivered a 'working' product and maintain it during the warranty period?

Can you see any difference between the three cars in this graph during the first few month of ownership?

Brick Ah Comparison.png