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How to design my garage?

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Remember that whatever you do, you can put in bigger wire than you need. Code allows for you to put a smaller breaker than the wire can handle, just as long as the breaker matches what the other end wants. So if you put in a Nema 14-50 and a 50 amp breaker, instead of putting in 8 AWG wire, put in the fattest wire you can physically put into the attachment points - at least 4 AWG wire. This will let you trivially upgrade later by changing the breaker and what you have at the other end.
 
Remember that whatever you do, you can put in bigger wire than you need. Code allows for you to put a smaller breaker than the wire can handle, just as long as the breaker matches what the other end wants. So if you put in a Nema 14-50 and a 50 amp breaker, instead of putting in 8 AWG wire, put in the fattest wire you can physically put into the attachment points - at least 4 AWG wire. This will let you trivially upgrade later by changing the breaker and what you have at the other end.

That is great advice. That has been my biggest concern. I thought about just going with the NEMA 14-50 for now, since I know that is the most the Roadster's universal adapter can handle; but I was concerned that in a couple months we'd hear that the Model S's adapter can handle a lot more.

Conversely, I didn't want to assume that Model S's adapter could handle more and then find out it can't.

I hope that made sense.
 
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POD Point - Next Generation Electric Vehicle Charging Network
 
While you are installing the electrical drops, be sure to install a CAT-5e or better network drop too. A lot of the home chargers (e.g. blink) are network capable. Yes, they can usually do wifi, but it's more reliable to go with a wired network for fixed installs.
 
Remember that whatever you do, you can put in bigger wire than you need. Code allows for you to put a smaller breaker than the wire can handle, just as long as the breaker matches what the other end wants. So if you put in a Nema 14-50 and a 50 amp breaker, instead of putting in 8 AWG wire, put in the fattest wire you can physically put into the attachment points - at least 4 AWG wire. This will let you trivially upgrade later by changing the breaker and what you have at the other end.

This is exactly what I did when I built my house, I put in a Nema 14-50 plug but used 4 AWG wire which should be good for up to 95A. It was a b---- to get the plug in the box but if I ever want to put in a ClipperCreek CS-90 it will be a cinch.
 
While you are installing the electrical drops, be sure to install a CAT-5e or better network drop too. A lot of the home chargers (e.g. blink) are network capable. Yes, they can usually do wifi, but it's more reliable to go with a wired network for fixed installs.

Also great advice. I have them putting CAT-5 in almost every room of the house, but didn't even think of the garage.
 
( What EVSE would need to upload or download quicker than 100mbit/s ?)

Don't know, probably none, but if you are running ethernet cable it is stupid to run older cable only capable of 100 mbit/s. He said he is haveing Cat5 being run in every room. Why would you want to limit your network potential to only 100 mbit/s? It's called futuring proofing and it could/will benefit the rest of the network.

-Shark2k
 
I agree with using a larger cable (4 AWG or more) and cat5e will be handy even though future EVSEs will probably be capable of wireless communication. But I would disagree with the low height (around 48") especially for live outlets such as NEMA 14-50. I installed mine at eye level which is a lot easier to plug into than if it was at 48". It is also a lot safer if you have toddlers around because it's generally out of reach at that height. I find it's also easier to hang the cable over the top of it with fewer loops. Most of this applies to your EVSE as well, even though it only goes live after plugging it in to your car.
 
( What EVSE would need to upload or download quicker than 100mbit/s ?)
You want to run CAT-5 or better because it can be used for lots of other things that you won't think of at time of install. CAT-5/5e/6 can be used for:network, telephone,alarm, rs-233,rs-485,HDMI,audio,video,remote power,electric gates, door bells, etc. Installing cat-5 to places where you are doing stuff gives you the flexibility to install something new using the existing cat-5 cable. Two rules: 1) when in doubt run two CAT-5/5e/6 cables. 2) you can never have too much slack.
 
You want to run CAT-5 or better because it can be used for lots of other things that you won't think of at time of install. CAT-5/5e/6 can be used for:network, telephone,alarm, rs-233,rs-485,HDMI,audio,video,remote power,electric gates, door bells, etc. Installing cat-5 to places where you are doing stuff gives you the flexibility to install something new using the existing cat-5 cable. Two rules: 1) when in doubt run two CAT-5/5e/6 cables. 2) you can never have too much slack.

Scott, he was referring to my comment of running Cat5e or better. I still stand by the fact that if you are going to be running ethernet cable you should run Cat5e or better. Cat5 shouldn't even be considered. JMO.

-Shark2k
 
Right, its Cat5e. I don't usually specify the "e". As you said, there's really no point in installing regular Cat5 at all, so we don't even distinguish between them anymore in my field. Its just understood that if you say Cat5 you are referring to Cat5e.

Don't deal with running wires where I work (small non-profit) so didn't realize when people say Cat5 now-a-days they are referring to Cat5e. Good to know.

-Shark2k