Hi all, I'm in need of help. I have a 2015 P85D (March 2015, P69xxx) that has recently gotten the dreaded "Unable to start vehicle – Service is required" error.
QUICK TL;DR: iso faults, BMS_f151 & BMS_w142, towed to service who said battery coolant heater, but then it drove, but then errored again, so I replaced 1009508, still have errors, now won't drive again. Okay, back to the super-verbose version, except the part where the service center hit my quarter panel and told me that HV things can run off 12v.
I put it in service mode, went through the errors, and checked the HV state. The relevant items in the list was as follows:
After a week and a half, they diagnose a battery coolant heater isolation fault. Surprised, since I supercharge (and nav to sc) nearly every day, and since the inverter's been making noise, and it's been torrential raining, and ultimately the DIS_w166_hvilOutOfBounds, I was super suspicious. They said that when it arrived it drove fine, they ran a drive test, and that in the logs the iso dropped when they engaged the heater. The tech said they measured the heater's isolation at "200mohms" [sic? maybe meant kohms?].
Since I was suspicious, and they wanted $1600 to try to fix it, and they said the car drove fine, I declined service and took the car back. That day, the car was fine, up until I navigated to a supercharger. At that point, the "Vehicle may not restart" warning popped up, and service mode had isolation varying, sometimes 5100kohms, most often 1600-1800kohms, and as low as 600kohms. Now I'm thinking, "damn, they WERE right" so I stopped nav'ing and drove to a different service center while the car was still running. They looked at it and said that it seemed like the right diagnosis, but they wanted to diagnose it themselves since the DIS_hvil didn't fit with the rest and wasn't able to get to it for 2 weeks. Since the car was still moving (albeit in limp mode, 100kw max, 0 regen) I said I'd try replacing the coolant heater and get back to them.
I got a 1009508-00-B off eBay (mine was an -E rev) and proceeded to replace it. I did do a couple 12v+HVIL resets just to make sure, but they didn't do anything. I checked the old heater first, and got >6Mohms iso (as high as my multimeter goes) so again, still suspicious, but it's not a megger. With the new part plugged in (but not plumbed in yet), it seems I no longer had the error, so yay. I finish up removing the old one, getting the coolant lines and brackets all swapped over, and try again. Still good, no current warnings, though the car is still giving recent errors and is still in limp mode. I do a few more resets, still no clearing errors. I figure I should test everything so I cycle Insane+ to get the heater going, I crank it up to HI to get the PTC going, drive forward and backwards a few inches, all good. Then I slide the temp to LO and boom, errors like crazy again. Could be coincidental, but seems unlikely, even though the A/C always blew cold, it did "clunk" on startup hard enough to sound like someone hit the car sometimes.
So, now, it's back in its "refuse to drive" mood. I wish I had the diag dummy plugs so I could bypass everything past the FJB to rule them all out. I'm super hesitant to jam a paperclip in the HVIL plugs since, you know, 400v of flesh cooking death so I probably won't do that. I suppose I could open up the FJB but it's WAY down there and I'm not that much of a contortionist. At this point, I'm just trying to get it started to I don't have to flatbed it AGAIN. I've started looking into some way to reset codes (this post? I'm getting various BMS errors, and my model S won't go into Drive (D) or Reverse (R) and maybe Savvy-CAN or something?) but I feel like I'm hitting a wall of what I can do before Friday afternoon (have an international flight and would like the car to either be in service or fixed).
Any thoughts? Thanks so much in advance.
QUICK TL;DR: iso faults, BMS_f151 & BMS_w142, towed to service who said battery coolant heater, but then it drove, but then errored again, so I replaced 1009508, still have errors, now won't drive again. Okay, back to the super-verbose version, except the part where the service center hit my quarter panel and told me that HV things can run off 12v.
I put it in service mode, went through the errors, and checked the HV state. The relevant items in the list was as follows:
- BMS_w151_SW_external_isolation (Vehicle may not restart – Service is required)
- BMS_w035_SW_Isolation (Vehicle may not restart – Service is required)
- BMS_f151_SW_external_isolation (Unable to start vehicle – Service is required)
- BMS_w142_SW_Isolation_Degradation (BMS detects HV isolation contractor closed below the warning threshold)
- and a whole bunch of subsequent resultant warnings about the 12v no longer getting charged, load shedding, etc
- Then later, I get DIS_w166_hvilOutOfBounds (Drive Inverter Slave Warning HVIL out of bounds)
After a week and a half, they diagnose a battery coolant heater isolation fault. Surprised, since I supercharge (and nav to sc) nearly every day, and since the inverter's been making noise, and it's been torrential raining, and ultimately the DIS_w166_hvilOutOfBounds, I was super suspicious. They said that when it arrived it drove fine, they ran a drive test, and that in the logs the iso dropped when they engaged the heater. The tech said they measured the heater's isolation at "200mohms" [sic? maybe meant kohms?].
Since I was suspicious, and they wanted $1600 to try to fix it, and they said the car drove fine, I declined service and took the car back. That day, the car was fine, up until I navigated to a supercharger. At that point, the "Vehicle may not restart" warning popped up, and service mode had isolation varying, sometimes 5100kohms, most often 1600-1800kohms, and as low as 600kohms. Now I'm thinking, "damn, they WERE right" so I stopped nav'ing and drove to a different service center while the car was still running. They looked at it and said that it seemed like the right diagnosis, but they wanted to diagnose it themselves since the DIS_hvil didn't fit with the rest and wasn't able to get to it for 2 weeks. Since the car was still moving (albeit in limp mode, 100kw max, 0 regen) I said I'd try replacing the coolant heater and get back to them.
I got a 1009508-00-B off eBay (mine was an -E rev) and proceeded to replace it. I did do a couple 12v+HVIL resets just to make sure, but they didn't do anything. I checked the old heater first, and got >6Mohms iso (as high as my multimeter goes) so again, still suspicious, but it's not a megger. With the new part plugged in (but not plumbed in yet), it seems I no longer had the error, so yay. I finish up removing the old one, getting the coolant lines and brackets all swapped over, and try again. Still good, no current warnings, though the car is still giving recent errors and is still in limp mode. I do a few more resets, still no clearing errors. I figure I should test everything so I cycle Insane+ to get the heater going, I crank it up to HI to get the PTC going, drive forward and backwards a few inches, all good. Then I slide the temp to LO and boom, errors like crazy again. Could be coincidental, but seems unlikely, even though the A/C always blew cold, it did "clunk" on startup hard enough to sound like someone hit the car sometimes.
So, now, it's back in its "refuse to drive" mood. I wish I had the diag dummy plugs so I could bypass everything past the FJB to rule them all out. I'm super hesitant to jam a paperclip in the HVIL plugs since, you know, 400v of flesh cooking death so I probably won't do that. I suppose I could open up the FJB but it's WAY down there and I'm not that much of a contortionist. At this point, I'm just trying to get it started to I don't have to flatbed it AGAIN. I've started looking into some way to reset codes (this post? I'm getting various BMS errors, and my model S won't go into Drive (D) or Reverse (R) and maybe Savvy-CAN or something?) but I feel like I'm hitting a wall of what I can do before Friday afternoon (have an international flight and would like the car to either be in service or fixed).
Any thoughts? Thanks so much in advance.
) and nicely does diagnose the DU as needing replacement due to water intrusion.
