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Hansshow Audio Upgrade? (SR+)

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Harness installed, audio coming out the wrong rear speakers. DSP is not installed yet, but I'll do that now to see if it can right that wrong, or if I need to redo the wires.... Which given the tenuous position I left them in before, I'm not keen to do again...
 
Harness installed, audio coming out the wrong rear speakers. DSP is not installed yet, but I'll do that now to see if it can right that wrong, or if I need to redo the wires.... Which given the tenuous position I left them in before, I'm not keen to do again...

I'm not sure how to do it in the software or if it can be done either but from doing my friend's version E software it can be done via creating custom profile.

FYI, DSP software is different for B vs E. E has way more options.
 
I'm in a RHD Model 3, but unless I raise my drivers seat considerably, there is no way the DSP will fit under there, and I don't know if the harness will let the DSP go anywhere else. Where have others (especially RHD owners) put their DSP?
 
You could try under the forward part of the center console. Take the black carpeted side panels off each side. When I get my version F that’s where I’m planning to place the DSP.

That is also where I was just told to do so by Hannshow. I will try doing that when time permits.

Two other updates:

1) Hannshow have said they will get me an update for my DSP to reverse the rear speakers on my version B DSP.

2) I am very pleased, so far, with the improved output in my car, even though the wires are sitting loose and the sub is just sitting in my trunk.

I need to detach a lot of wires and install them properly, but the goal for today was to test things out and see if everything works in general. This phase, from start to finish, only took about 1.5 hours, and that was with a lot of faffing about. Everything came apart pretty easily and I found the plugs to be where they were supposed to be.
 
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That is also where I was just told to do so by Hannshow. I will try doing that when time permits.

Two other updates:

1) Hannshow have said they will get me an update for my DSP to reverse the rear speakers on my version B DSP.

2) I am very pleased, so far, with the improved output in my car, even though the wires are sitting loose and the sub is just sitting in my trunk.

I need to detach a lot of wires and install them properly, but the goal for today was to test things out and see if everything works in general. This phase, from start to finish, only took about 1.5 hours, and that was with a lot of faffing about. Everything came apart pretty easily and I found the plugs to be where they were supposed to be.

Yes under the center console is a great alternative, just make sure that you leave the cable that plugs into the dsp to connect to a computer plugged into the dsp and route it to the side by the door for easy access, that way if you ever want to adjust any settings you won't have to remove the carpet and everything again, make sure you use strong double sided tape to glue the dsp to the car so its not bouncing around here are a few pics of how it looks in my car
 

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Have any version B guys tried using the sub out option to the subwoofer instead of the speaker level inputs to the subwoofer?

In theory using shielded RCA cables should provide better audio to the subwoofer. Not sure if the DSP software can allow the proper frequencies though?

8DFAB28A-5DA8-4E4F-8B25-A7F3103B6134.jpeg
 
Hey all, just installed version E, has anyone seen battery drain while the car is parked? Just lost 4km in 15 minutes. Not sure if the car is going to sleep..

I was wondering that myself, but at the same time the temperature here has dropped quite a bit. I will keep an eye out.

Curious if any version B or E owners are experiencing random increase and decrease in signal and chime sounds. I've noticed that on the same trip sometimes my signal is ticking so loud, and then later, it's rally quiet. I've been trying to figure out if there is a pattern or something I am doing while driving to cause this.
 
I was wondering that myself, but at the same time the temperature here has dropped quite a bit. I will keep an eye out.

Curious if any version B or E owners are experiencing random increase and decrease in signal and chime sounds. I've noticed that on the same trip sometimes my signal is ticking so loud, and then later, it's rally quiet. I've been trying to figure out if there is a pattern or something I am doing while driving to cause this.

Version B is theoretically a lower power draw as evident of the puny 16 gauge power and ground cable.

Version B harness is also quite different and when I compare my B to my friend's E, the B works right out of the box for chimes and signals and door opening volume decrease. I also decreased the front output by 5dB. The E chimes are really loud!
 
Does your friends E have a reduction of bass in the door speakers? My door speakers were pounding pretty good before I flipped my sub wires as directed by hansshow. This increased the sub power significantly but now my front door speakers, when I fade around in the settings don't ever get the deep bass that they had.
 
Does your friends E have a reduction of bass in the door speakers? My door speakers were pounding pretty good before I flipped my sub wires as directed by hansshow. This increased the sub power significantly but now my front door speakers, when I fade around in the settings don't ever get the deep bass that they had.

Yes, my friend's E is exactly like that too but in my version B, I reversed the purple wire too but my door woofers still pound like before. I feel as if the signal to the subwoofer isn't as strong or is not being tapped at the door woofers? In my cabin I can hear my door woofers and can't really hear my subwoofer at all! I even sound deadened the cavity where the subwoofer is with 80mil noico!
 
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That's what I did. I can confirm to you that white goes to grey and white/black goes to grey/black. Otherwise you will have reversed balance.
FYI - I heat shrank the final product after reversing the colours
It's interesting that they used 2 colours for the 8 pin connector. Since all the colours for the speakers are the same, maybe that's why the polarities are messed up...
pas-r.JPG
 
Have any version B guys tried using the sub out option to the subwoofer instead of the speaker level inputs to the subwoofer?

In theory using shielded RCA cables should provide better audio to the subwoofer. Not sure if the DSP software can allow the proper frequencies though?

View attachment 613972

I was wondering the same thing! I guess it wouldn't be too hard to run a test cable and see if it makes any difference.
 
Have any version B guys tried using the sub out option to the subwoofer instead of the speaker level inputs to the subwoofer?

In theory using shielded RCA cables should provide better audio to the subwoofer. Not sure if the DSP software can allow the proper frequencies though?

View attachment 613972
I don't know and I asked to HansShow if this working or not..
And I don't know but my wires to the DSP is too short and I close all part to my M3 .. So I need to remove all and replace the wire
Please to be advise to place all part or the system before close all opend door or dash ..
 
I ordered version B during the Black Friday sale and received it a couple of days ago.

I have been installing Version B this evening and it was going great. I hooked up the front four speakers and then got the rears hooked up as well. Then I noticed the rears are flipped so I will need to fix that as I have seen in some comments in this thread. Then I noticed that my driver's door woofer stopped putting out sound but the rest worked. I pulled the harness from the main 'computer' connection and reinserted and now the woofer works. So for those trying to install the harness, keep in mind that the harness connections can be finicky. However, I am not seeing a power light on my red Version B DSP - which is shown as black in the instructions.

Has anyone had issues with the DSP not powering? If I connect the USB cable that light illuminates but not the power light. It should be powered from the harness.

Thanks everyone for your help, this is quite a thread and I am disappointed that my harness still has the same flaw.
 
I ordered version B during the Black Friday sale and received it a couple of days ago.

I have been installing Version B this evening and it was going great. I hooked up the front four speakers and then got the rears hooked up as well. Then I noticed the rears are flipped so I will need to fix that as I have seen in some comments in this thread. Then I noticed that my driver's door woofer stopped putting out sound but the rest worked. I pulled the harness from the main 'computer' connection and reinserted and now the woofer works. So for those trying to install the harness, keep in mind that the harness connections can be finicky. However, I am not seeing a power light on my red Version B DSP - which is shown as black in the instructions.

Has anyone had issues with the DSP not powering? If I connect the USB cable that light illuminates but not the power light. It should be powered from the harness.

Thanks everyone for your help, this is quite a thread and I am disappointed that my harness still has the same flaw.

Flip to DC power instead of ACC power. Remember rear shelf is white to grey and white/black to grey/black.

Version E has door woofer issues not version B. Version B has weak subwoofer performance compared to version E.