Group Buy for Power Trunk/Frunk Liftgate!

[swegman]

So I can't get the foot sensor to work for the life of me. Followed the wiring diagram. Been troublshooting with Hans himself but now it's pretty late and he's sleeping. He told me I absolutely needed to connect the white wire from the plug connector to the white wire coming form the harness. But now I'm wondering if my white wire is cut also, don't I need to reconnect it?

Every video I’ve watched says the white wire on the kick foot sensor is not used. It is labeled as an accessory line, and not used on the model 3.

Did you install carbon fiber on the bumper? Hansshow says the sensor will not work with carbon fiber bumpers. Also, do you have the kick foot sensor properly oriented? Watch the video in the prior post (starting at the 52 minute mark) to see the correct orientation. Finally, it requires a certain foot motion to work properly.

 

[netjack]

No carbon fiber. I'm talking white wire of the connector plug not white wire of the foot sensor harness.

 

[notrhj]

Yup, it's confusing as MANY of the videos are installing a different kit. Well, the exact same hardware (it all comes from Hansshow) but other companies repackage it and sell it themselves. Those other kits often times had different instructions, or ways to tap into the power.

The one we all got in this group buy does not need you to use any taps.

if you purchased the foot switch option
You have three wires that need three taps
Ground
+12 volts
And signal
These taps are Not included

 

[jebs2k]

I’m not sure what is going on at Hansshow. I asked them about the light flashing issue with the wiring harness modification and firmware update you had posted and they responded that they have a new light cable to fix that issue. I then asked whether the new cable would be included with their new shipments or if they can email instructions how to modify the existing light cable. At that point a different person (I think) responded to me on WhatsApp and said they are not sure about the fix to show when the trunk is open. I indicated that someone in this thread ( @jebs2k ) said it works fine but for the light flashing issue. They responded it’s wrong, I asked what’s wrong but they stopped responding.

A concern I have with the existing design (where the touchscreen and Tesla app do NOT show when the trunk is open) is whether the alarm would activate if someone broke into the trunk. If the car thinks the trunk is always closed, it’s possible the alarm might not be triggered by a break-in. I haven’t tried it (still waiting for my kits) so I’m not sure whether the alarm gets triggered by the open/close status change or by the trunk lights turning ON.

I hope Hansshow provides a definitive answer as to whether the modification you posted actually works and how to fix the light flashing issue. If those 2 things are addressed, the product would be essentially perfect. Maybe @jebs2k can provide additional information with respect to the operation of the modification.

that's messed up. i'd like to know what isn't right since i already made the changes. everything seems to be working ok except for the flashing lights which i don't mind that much. where can i get that exact white harness in the pic above? since my white wire is cut now, it doesn't leave me much room to re-tap back to original...

 

[silentcorp]

if you purchased the foot switch option
You have three wires that need three taps
Ground
+12 volts
And signal
These taps are Not included

Yeah, I responded that I didn't have the foot sensor installed so my comment was only about the trunk kit itself.

 

[swegman]

that's messed up. i'd like to know what isn't right since i already made the changes. everything seems to be working ok except for the flashing lights which i don't mind that much. where can i get that exact white harness in the pic above? since my white wire is cut now, it doesn't leave me much room to re-tap back to original...

Maybe you can talk to them about it using WhatsApp. I don’t know what the problem is since you say it works (but for the flashing trunk lights). I asked them, WhatsApp indicates they read my question, but they have not responded.

It may simply be a communication issue that they don’t fully understand. Or maybe the model 3 in Asia is somewhat different from the cars sold in North America.

I asked for the instructions on how to modify the light cable, but also got nothing from them. I also can’t get an answer as to whether this new cable is included in the kits they will be shipping.

they asked @Marcuir to remove the post that included the instructions for modifying the wiring harness.

 

[scgator1]

Here's mine:
View attachment 469734

Is this the white wire that is pre-cut at the connector end (into the control box)? If so, do we even need to connect it and why is it even included in the kit?

 

[yerEVan]

I am getting things ready for my install this weekend and I have a question. My kit came with only the white wire cut in the main harness that connects to the hub. I managed to push all the heads of the wiring out of the connector so I didnt have to cut the other wires. Once I put it through the tube with the fish wire, do I need to reconnect it to the same white wire in the connector? I am planning on using a posi-lock to reconnect the white wire.
View attachment 469854 View attachment 469853

i don't believe it's supposed to be connected. Mine is not and everything, including foot sensor works fine.

 

[Luudcrs]

For those people that are installing the kick foot sensor, I suggest you view the following installation video starting at about the 52 minute mark:

The guy that made this video shows how to install the kick foot sensor without having to remove the bumper cover. Apparently there is a service panel that can be removed that gives one access to the bumper area. Since Tesla constantly changes things on their cars I’m not certain if every car has such a service panel, but if your car does, this greatly simplifies the installation of the kick foot sensor.

That's cool, but I definitely don't have that bottom access panel.

 

[Marcuir]

Maybe you can talk to them about it using WhatsApp. I don’t know what the problem is since you say it works (but for the flashing trunk lights). I asked them, WhatsApp indicates they read my question, but they have not responded.

It may simply be a communication issue that they don’t fully understand. Or maybe the model 3 in Asia is somewhat different from the cars sold in North America.

I asked for the instructions on how to modify the light cable, but also got nothing from them. I also can’t get an answer as to whether this new cable is included in the kits they will be shipping.

they asked @Marcuir to remove the post that included the instructions for modifying the wiring harness.

Well from what I understand, the bypass shared with me by a Hansshow engineer isn't final. When you reached to them for the fix of the Trunk max position on top of this method, the management "I guess" freaked out about this and called back the engineer.
They are maybe now putting more effort on this to try to test it and find a solution for the blinking trunk lights. I think we should probably let them do more tests and get back to us when they will have something more stable.

 

[netjack]

So good news bad news:
- Once I reconnected the white wire that was cut from them in my main harness cable, voila the kicking motion worked!

Bad news:
- I've only gotten it to work twice.
1) After the first time when I connected the white wire which was originally cut by them
2) After resetting the cables and power cycling the unit

I can't seem to repeat step 2 to get it to work.

Frustrated!

 

[netjack]

Could it be faulty wiring? Bad unit?

Red to red power
Green to white (light plug)
black to black (light plug)

My only options was to use taps because posi-taps don't work on 18 gauge wire

 

[ScrewieEDH]

Having this same issue. Talking to them through WhatsApp and sounds like it can only be solved through adjustments. Not sure what adjustments as I believe I went through them all but still waiting for more info.

I just heard from my installer the same thing.

 

[HPYC]

I had the same issue. Had a Hansshaw installer trying to install the frunk kit yesterday. They had two major issues. First issue was the latching of the frunk. After they got that addressed, then when they put everything back together, when the frunk closed, it sort of “taco’d” in the middle of the frunk. The middle was higher than the front and back of the body and it wasn’t flush. They removed the frunk kit, returned it to stock and frunk is flush again. Glad to hear that I wasn’t the only one with this issue.

sounds like the same issue I am having that I haven’t resolved with Hansshow. I posted earlier showing the frunk can’t close all the way as the struts are at their minimum length before the frunk hood is fully closed, leading to a bulge when you force the hood down. Have you figured out a solution? Also what month/year is your car? Don’t have time during the week, but will try to move the strut mounts this weekend to see it that helps.

 

[swegman]

So good news bad news:
- Once I reconnected the white wire that was cut from them in my main harness cable, voila the kicking motion worked!

Bad news:
- I've only gotten it to work twice.
1) After the first time when I connected the white wire which was originally cut by them
2) After resetting the cables and power cycling the unit

I can't seem to repeat step 2 to get it to work.

Frustrated!

How is the foot kick sensor mounted and which side do you have facing up? See this installation video, starting around minute 52, for the proper orientation:

 

[ScrewieEDH]

sounds like the same issue I am having that I haven’t resolved with Hansshow. I posted earlier showing the frunk can’t close all the way as the struts are at their minimum length before the frunk hood is fully closed, leading to a bulge when you force the hood down. Have you figured out a solution? Also what month/year is your car? Don’t have time during the week, but will try to move the strut mounts this weekend to see it that helps.

Unfortunately I don’t have a solution at this time. I ended up having the installers remove the Hansshow frunk and return it to stock. I received a text from my installer this morning saying their engineers figured out issue was with a variation in the strut support bracket assembly. Certain number of M3s may have the issue of out of tolerance with their product. He also said that there is an adjustment to be made of the strut support brackets (how that is done I don’t know). My vintage of my vehicle is 12/2018. Sorry not any more help.

 

[ScrewieEDH]

So are you returning it or are they sendig you a new one.

I decided to have them install it rather than me doing it. Was way less frustrating.....

 

[swegman]

I think we should probably let them do more tests and get back to us when they will have something more stable.

I think we may have to keep on them for the solution. I don’t think they will get back to us on their own.

 

[Blue Express]

Anyone knows a good installer out here in Long Island, NY?

 

[TKOGUY]

I decided to have them install it rather than me doing it. Was way less frustrating.....

So is the installer coming back out to re-install the frunk? BTW I got the same message from the installer, regarding the frunk this morning.