Driver's Side Door Button Broken?

[InfinitySky]

When I press the button to open my driver's side door it takes anywhere between 2-15 presses to actually open the door. Eventually it will work if I stick with it long enough, but I've been having to use the manual pull lever to open the door. This has lasted for about 3 months now. Has anybody else had this issue? I've done re-boots using the scroll wheels but that hasn't helped. I've also been through a couple software updates at this point and that hasn't helped either.

I would like to troubleshoot on my own if possible since I'm over 50K miles so no more warranty. If anyone has any ideas that would be great. Thanks in advance!

 

[jjrandorin]

I have used the manual release on my drivers door perhaps 2 times during my ownership period, which is from december of 2018 to now. My button also works on first press every time (talking about the button on the door that opens the drivers door to exit the vehicle).

That doesnt sound like a software issue to me, it sounds like a hardware issue (either actuator or contacts under the button). You probably need to start your troubleshooting there, if you are the handy type.

 

[DomDeWild]

Sounds like a faulty pushbutton. Any chance you can swap out the front door and rear door switches? If the problem moves to the rear door, there's your answer. Also a small chance it's a loose wire.

 

[Gauss Guzzler]

This is the 3-wire harness connected to the door button, plainly visible in the middle of the door panel. It's shown here disconnected but no need for you to do that - just short pins 1 and 3 to trigger the door latch and track down the fault. I agree with Dom that it's most likely the button itself which is available in gloss or matte: 1094956-01-G or 1094956-02-G.

Text your service center and ask for a price, they're often cheaper than eBay, etc.

Meanwhile, be sure to crack the window before pulling the emergency release to avoid stress/wear.

 

[InfinitySky]

Quote

This is the 3-wire harness connected to the door button, plainly visible in the middle of the door panel. It's shown here disconnected but no need for you to do that - just short pins 1 and 3 to trigger the door latch and track down the fault. I agree with Dom that it's most likely the button itself which is available in gloss or matte: 1094956-01-G or 1094956-02-G.

Text your service center and ask for a price, they're often cheaper than eBay, etc.

Meanwhile, be sure to crack the window before pulling the emergency release to avoid stress/wear.

View attachment 997811

Thanks for this visual and info! Is using the manual handle actually bad for the window? It still lowers automatically just like when you use the button...I think it used to not lower a long time ago but they fixed that with a software update

 

[jjrandorin]

Quote

Thanks for this visual and info! Is using the manual handle actually bad for the window? It still lowers automatically just like when you use the button...I think it used to not lower a long time ago but they fixed that with a software update

The warning to only use them when model 3 has no power is still in the current online manual. The manual states its relevant for "Software version: 2023.38", so its a manual for a software as late as week 38 of this year (2023). I would say that means the instructions from Tesla to not use it regularly still apply. Whether anything actually happens or not, I dont know, but they tell us not to use it regularly.

========================================================

Model 3 Owner's Manual | Tesla

Learn how to open, close and lock your vehicle's doors.

www.tesla.com

CAUTION
Manual door releases are designed to be used only in situations when Model 3 has no power. When Model 3 has power, use the button located at the top of the interior door handle.

 

[Gauss Guzzler]

There is a lot of misinformation out there concerning the manual door handle. Apparently, some early cars had a major software error which could result in you *closing* the door with the window all the way up, sometimes shattering the glass! That was fixed many years ago but people still conflate it with the actual issue.

Currently, all cars work as designed, which is: The button (or exterior handle) first triggers the window, then triggers the door latch after some delay. Additionally, there is a position sensor inside the door latch mechanism and the aforementioned software fix ensures that anytime the latch is in the open position, the window will be commanded to drop as needed. So when you pull the emergency handle, you reverse the order - first the door unlatches, then the window drops.

It all happens so quickly that it's a subtle difference of little concern. Cars have had manual handles with post-facto window dropping since the 1980's, but Tesla's glass does snug in there a bit tighter than an old Chevy (and the trim is more easily scuffed) so it'd be wise to crack the window yourself anytime you can. Once the door is open, you can roll the window all the way up and it should behave/close normally.

 

[stopcrazypp]

There is a lot of misinformation out there concerning the manual door handle. Apparently, some early cars had a major software error which could result in you *closing* the door with the window all the way up, sometimes shattering the glass! That was fixed many years ago but people still conflate it with the actual issue.

Currently, all cars work as designed, which is: The button (or exterior handle) first triggers the window, then triggers the door latch after some delay. Additionally, there is a position sensor inside the door latch mechanism and the aforementioned software fix ensures that anytime the latch is in the open position, the window will be commanded to drop as needed. So when you pull the emergency handle, you reverse the order - first the door unlatches, then the window drops.

It all happens so quickly that it's a subtle difference of little concern. Cars have had manual handles with post-facto window dropping since the 1980's, but Tesla's glass does snug in there a bit tighter than an old Chevy (and the trim is more easily scuffed) so it'd be wise to crack the window yourself anytime you can. Once the door is open, you can roll the window all the way up and it should behave/close normally.

The only concern in the latter is someone simultaneously pulling on the manual handle while pushing the door out in a continuous motion. If you do it fast enough, you might be able to scrape glass on the top trim. If you open it like most people (pull then push outward, or even with a pause in between) you won't have problems with the current updates.

 

[InfinitySky]

There is a lot of misinformation out there concerning the manual door handle. Apparently, some early cars had a major software error which could result in you *closing* the door with the window all the way up, sometimes shattering the glass! That was fixed many years ago but people still conflate it with the actual issue.

Currently, all cars work as designed, which is: The button (or exterior handle) first triggers the window, then triggers the door latch after some delay. Additionally, there is a position sensor inside the door latch mechanism and the aforementioned software fix ensures that anytime the latch is in the open position, the window will be commanded to drop as needed. So when you pull the emergency handle, you reverse the order - first the door unlatches, then the window drops.

It all happens so quickly that it's a subtle difference of little concern. Cars have had manual handles with post-facto window dropping since the 1980's, but Tesla's glass does snug in there a bit tighter than an old Chevy (and the trim is more easily scuffed) so it'd be wise to crack the window yourself anytime you can. Once the door is open, you can roll the window all the way up and it should behave/close normally.

This makes a lot of sense and lines up with my experience. Thanks for the explanation