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25 cycles is the mechanical specification of the connectors' durability. Current would be zero.
Right, so that is just specifying that the tin plating can stand 25 insertion/removal cycles before it wears off. That's not a lot, but shouldn't be a problem unless the PEM is removed many times. That spec should be unrelated to how much current the connection can handle.
Right, so that is just specifying that the tin plating can stand 25 insertion/removal cycles before it wears off. That's not a lot, but shouldn't be a problem unless the PEM is removed many times. That spec should be unrelated to how much current the connection can handle.
I'm not sure where you get the idea that the tin is wearing off. It is more likely due to the fit between male and female parts becoming sloppy after multiple insertions.
I'm not sure where you get the idea that the tin is wearing off. It is more likely due to the fit between male and female parts becoming sloppy after multiple insertions. This leads to a higher resistance connection which would cause more heat and potentially burn the contacts. The amount of heat is proportional to the current squared. Take a look at the photo I posted. My connector was cycled approximately 8 times. The spec sheet says 25 MAXIMUM, it doesn't list a minimum number. What would you expect from a pair of connectors that cost less than $10? And the consequences of failure? My wife was stranded on her way to the OR. The service center said NEW PEM. That's $9700 plus labor in case you haven't been paying attention, not to mention loss of all good husband points recently accumulated. Replacement female contacts cost $.92 for 4 plus shipping. That's 92 pennies. I will be changing out the female pins on mine and applying electrical antioxidant before reassembly each and every time I pull my PEM. The cost of another failure is just too high and the cost and effort of the preventative maintenance ridiculously low.
Are you going to replace your PEM or attempt to repair it? That circuit board with all the connectors requires that you dismantle almost everything to get to it.
Enter the "Diagnostics menu", go to "Controls" and select "Inhabite APS". Confirm with YES. You should get the message "APS: APS power inhibited".
If you do, all you need to do is insert the key into the key slot located underneath the door. When you turn it the door will open even though power is cut.After disabling APS, make sure you don't close the door.
If you do, all you need to do is insert the key into the key slot located underneath the door. When you turn it the door will open even though power is cut.
Yes if the window is down you can reach in and open the door.
Good morning everybody.
How do you go in the "diagnostic mode" ? I never saw anything like that in the roadster menu. I have a 2.5 if that helps.
I wonder if that cover would benefit from being deeper and larger? it gets really blocked up. Maybe someone with a 3d printer could make a bigger one.Very nice instructions and pics. I also removed the 4 screws from the small plastic cover that sticks up on the bottom of the PEM. You can see this cover in step 31. It has an air duct under it and mine was full of dirt. It would also be nice to see a pic of the small PEM mounting screws and the larger ones in front. Thanks for doing this.