Did anyone try to charge MS using TT-30 ?

[FlasherZ]

I have my custom made EVSE with a J1772 plug. I went ahead and set the pilot for 80A, with a 120V feed, and the car automatically limits at 20A. It sounds like they moved the max charge rate down from the Roadster days . Perhaps we could convince them to raise it...

Matches what I'm seeing. Perhaps when a TT-30 adapter is available, they'll raise it.

 

[fluxemag]

I made a TT-30 adapter from instructions from @shop on the teslamotors site. I'll test it out when I get the car in a week or so.

 

[FlasherZ]

I made a TT-30 adapter from instructions from @shop on the teslamotors site. I'll test it out when I get the car in a week or so.

If you get a red light on the UMC, just swap the hot and neutral between L1/L2 on the 14-50. Also, you should mark that cable "FOR TESLA CHARGING ONLY!" so that you don't find someone blowing up their 240V RV appliances with it.

 

[fluxemag]

Will do, thanks.

 

[InternetDude]

Older thread but just in case someone finds this thread, I made a video on charging the Model S on a TT-30 outlet using an adapter.

 

[TexasEV]

Better to just buy the proper adapter-- which is a 14-50 to TT-30 adapter that is labeled as made for Tesla, such as evseadapters.com has.

 

[InternetDude]

I'm totally comfortable doing wiring though, I even installed my HPWC. Yeah safer bet for most people is buy the one that is wired right but it costs almost double.

 

[FlasherZ]

Also note that when you're using 120V sources, the Tesla expects the hot to be on a specific pole - if you have it backwards, you'll get a red light on the UMC. You'll have to reverse the two wires in the adapter.

 

[davewill]

... Also, you should mark that cable "FOR TESLA CHARGING ONLY!" so that you don't find someone blowing up their 240V RV appliances with it.

Is there any reason one shouldn't go ahead and tie the neutral to the neutral pin as well? Would that help prevent the type of damage you're describing?

 

[FlasherZ]

Is there any reason one shouldn't go ahead and tie the neutral to the neutral pin as well? Would that help prevent the type of damage you're describing?

No, because you still have only 120V between L1 and L2, when 240V is expected. You can tie the neutral and it will make it *slightly* better, in that one of the two legs will work for 120V loads, but the other half of loads will get 0V, and any 240V appliances are going to likely burn up. It'll keep the 120V from being divided even more by floating neutral, but it's not something you want.

 

[Tripple_T]

I use the same adaptor from evseadapters.com. I've found it very helpful to have a strap/bungee cord in my bag of adaptors. I use it to help hold the adaptor in place when charging. You just need something to take the weight off the plug. It has the ability to pull itself out of the outlet. Could cause higher resistance/heat or just stop your charging unexpectedly.

 

[Rocky_H]

I use the same adaptor from evseadapters.com. I've found it very helpful to have a strap/bungee cord in my bag of adaptors. I use it to help hold the adaptor in place when charging. You just need something to take the weight off the plug. It has the ability to pull itself out of the outlet. Could cause higher resistance/heat or just stop your charging unexpectedly.

That’s why I am very glad that Evseadapters came out with that other version that is a 90 degree angle cord, which handles that hanging weight issue, rather than just that big cylinder that sticks out from the plug.

 

[Tripple_T]

OK, since we last talked about the TT-30 on this thread, I opened a conversation with Tesla about the TT-30 and the 20A limitation on the older (pre-2014) cars. I went as far to send pictures of a newer Tesla charging at above 20A (got up to 30A, probably could have gone to 40A). As well as my car limited to 20A. Here is the results of the conversation:

Tesla: "I’ve reached out to engineering, and it appears that your vehicle is operating as intended. Your Model S , P031XX, is equipped with the first generation on-board charger and is intended to operate at a maximum of 20 amps when the voltage supply is in the 120 volt range. I wasn’t able to determine why the second Model S, P38XXX, does not have the same 120 volt supply limitation of 20 amps"

Me: "Did the engineering team say the older chargers could be software upgraded to support more? Could this be included in a future update?"

Tesla: "I wasn’t able to get a definitive answer to that, however it seemed unlikely"