Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

Check your AC

This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
Add me to the list of late 2016 S90D deliveries with A/C problems. Of course you don't know if the compressor is working or not in the NW in December/January ... except that windshield defog was slower than my old S85. However upon driving to Arizona it became very clear near southern California that my vents only blew hot air no matter what temperature setting was chosen or "Lo" for temp.

So yesterday Scottsdale service center found and "fixed" my problem:
Concern: Customer states: The air conditioning only blows warm air.

Corrections: Cabin HVAC General Diagnosis

Performed HVAC diagnosis and found current alert for high pressure sensor in a/c system. Performed electrical test and determined sensor is shorted internally.

Corrections: Pressure Transducer - High Pressure
Replaced high pressure a/c sensor and verified a/c functionality.

Parts Replaced or Added
Part Quantity

ASY,AC LINE,DISCHARGE,DM,MDL S 1 (1031671-00-I)

It was warm when I left and YES the A/C was working. Today (the very next day) I'm back to vents only blowing hot air.

I'm concerned this may be (a) wide spread in late 2016 S90D production, (b) root cause not know therefore many 'solutions' appear to fix it temporarily.

Call in to service..... Meanwhile, when you have a warm day test your A/C to verify its working.
 
Shortly after reading @norm 's original post, I also discovered the AC wasn't working in my 2013 S85. Service Center replaced the DC-DC converter, explaining that the AC-specific fuse blew and fuses in the DC-DC converter are not replaceable. Strange that several of us have seen this same failure almost simultaneously. Repair invoice states fuse blew due to "moisture exposure," but I wonder if there was something in the software code that triggered a borderline high-current event to cause a small(?) percentage of us to experience the DC-DC fuse issue..??..

If root cause really was moisture incursion, anyone have any ideas how this might happen (path of moisture)?
 
Follow up on my AC not working: called service and they said would look at logs etc and call me back. It did take until the next day but when he called back I learned 1. power off the car, wait 2 minutes and it will temporarily clear the fault, and 2. they have a new SW fix. So next morning went back (fortunately it's a10 min drive for me) and they pushed new firmware which I installed later that morning in my garage. Version now says 17.7.2 and seems to have cured the problem.
 
  • Informative
Reactions: RacerX and Lu Ann
I just read this, and WOW! I am on a road trip from Texas to San Diego. On Sunday afternoon somewhere east of Holbrook AZ I realized I wasn't getting any cold air. The trip had been in cold weather until hitting Arizona. I haven't needed AC in months.

It was miserable. I ended up spending the night up in Prescott,AZ where it is cool, but decided to leave the next day at 4am to avoid extreme temps in the AZ and CA deserts. By doing that it 'only' got up to 85 degrees outside, and of course hotter inside. I had to roll down my windows much of the time, which made driving a lot less fun.

Luckily I had previously scheduled an annual service visit at the San Diego SC for my 2013 S85.

Their diagnosis was the same as the other 2013 models above, that it is a failed DC DC converter. Nothing was mentioned about a firmware issue.

The bad news was the DC DC converters are on back order. Perhaps there is a mass failure of DC DC converters this winter?

Somehow one was located elsewhere, and I hope to be back on the road by Friday when I start back for Texas and head into the AZ desert again.

So a word for the wise: check your AC now. There may be an emerging backorder situation on this part due to an increased number of failures. If your AC is dead, get it fixed now, before you really need it.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Lu Ann
Update: here is my service ticket. They do mention updating the firmware to correct a communication issue as well as the blown fuse in the D.C. D.C.

Concern: Customer stated: AC is not working.

Corrections: Cabin HVAC General Diagnosis

During diagnostics, found internal fuse of the DC/DC failed. Ordered new DC/DC Corrections: DCDC Converter - 1st Generation

Diagnostics show the DC/DC Converter is not functioning appropriately. Removed and replaced the DC/DC Converter and performed firmware update to ensure proper communication. Confirmed vehicle is operating optimally upon completion.

Parts Replaced or Added
Part Quantity

DCDC CONVERTER ASSEMBLY (6009170- 1 00-J)

Pay Type: Warranty
 
  • Informative
Reactions: dhanson865
I just spent $4000 getting these exact repairs done but the service center did not mention anything about it potentially being caused or the need of a software update. I am trusting them that the compressor actually shorted and blew the fuse in the DC-DC converter and that it was not something caused by a software issue months earlier.

I've been without my car for over a month because it's been in a body shop getting a dent and assorted scratches repaired. I got it back with a non-functioning A/C.
 
I also have this issue on my 2013 Model S VIN# 14046 . They diagnosed it to a DC/DC converter after I gave them $140 to diagnose it . It quit sometime over a month ago, not sure since it just started getting warm here, but I know the Defrost didnt work well either. Not covered under warranty, so I did not get it fixed. Has anyone just replaced the fuse inside the DC/DC? I know they say its not serviceable. But its not rocket science its just electronics 101. Since its happened to a bunch of folks here at the same time is it something they did push out to the car? Why would they be back ordered on DC/DC converters? And if its something they did why are they not fixing it as good will?
 
I also have this issue on my 2013 Model S VIN# 14046 . They diagnosed it to a DC/DC converter after I gave them $140 to diagnose it . It quit sometime over a month ago, not sure since it just started getting warm here, but I know the Defrost didnt work well either. Not covered under warranty, so I did not get it fixed. Has anyone just replaced the fuse inside the DC/DC? I know they say its not serviceable. But its not rocket science its just electronics 101. Since its happened to a bunch of folks here at the same time is it something they did push out to the car? Why would they be back ordered on DC/DC converters? And if its something they did why are they not fixing it as good will?


Over the years I have owned many BMW's and have had some quirky things go wrong. Almost all of the weird things were indeed on a list of "service bulletins" and were taken care of at no charge. I wonder how many have to be repaired / replaced / fixed before it becomes a service bulletin and if you would get reimbursed retrospectively
 
How can any of the 12 V systems function at all if the DCDC is down? Furthermore, the compressor is powered directly from the HV pack.
To my knowledge the DC/DC converter has a HV relay and HV fuse to send the send the main battery power to the AC pump/Chiller. But Since Tesla doesnt allow anyone to see a schematic. I guess only they know. But I can tell you what if enough people get pissed and pull their Model 3 reservation that my get some attention. I love the car, But reliability is poor like a first gen Hunedy or Kia.
 
I too found that the AC was not working well after the weather became warmer here in Chicago... thought it might have been crossed lines (high and low side swapped) like on the X... well it turned out to be something else.

Concern: Customer states the AC is only blowing warm air.
Pay Type: Warranty
Corrections: Cabin HVAC General Diagnosis
Verified A/C performance concern. Found fault logs for TXV chiller circuit. Replaced chiller
and recharged a/c system. Checked operation of a/c performance and is operating as
designed
Corrections: TXV Valve - Chiller
..........................................
Part Quantity
ASSY, BATT CHILLER AND EXV, MX
(1037357-00-D)
1

So at least in my case, it is something they can check remotely.
 
  • Informative
Reactions: Joe F
I just spent $4000 getting these exact repairs done but the service center did not mention anything about it potentially being caused or the need of a software update. I am trusting them that the compressor actually shorted and blew the fuse in the DC-DC converter and that it was not something caused by a software issue months earlier.

I've been without my car for over a month because it's been in a body shop getting a dent and assorted scratches repaired. I got it back with a non-functioning A/C.
I had this repair done in February as well on my '13 S85. I was quite thankful for my extended warranty as it has now paid for itself in the first year that I have had it active. I am curious about firmware actually be the root cause of the failure; seems to me that that is a fault of Tesla's and they should cover it no matter what.
 
I have no heat. Lady ran diagnostic, bad valve. Huh? I thought heat was electric?
How much to fix it? No idea, I don't need heat in florida.
Oh. I came out the other day, dash was screaming hot. Took ac long time to cool.
Next day I put white towel over dash, WOW, instant cold air. I leave overy dash all the time now.