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. New to EV. MYLR.Except if you look at the graph you can see you lose about 0.75% per 15,000 miles using large cycles and much more than that per year by not using a low SOC strategy. Note the cycles were done continuously at 3C and who does that. In short, you gain more by low SOC than you lose by deep cycles.
For NMC cells (which I think you have in an MYLR) there really is no gain in storage degradation below 55% SOC at normal temperatures. Ok at 50C (122F) there is a benefit but you won’t hit that hopefully.
Personally I need 30% per day for my commute and I like to have a 25% buffer for unexpected work trips so I charge to 65% at work using schedule change to be ready when I leave. I’m at 50% overnight and at 20-35% when I get back to work depending on errands etc.
MYLR (MIC) 9m old 25,000kms 2% degradation according to Tessie.
I would be curious if anyone would advise better charging for battery life given my usage.
Personally I need 30% per day for my commute and I like to have a 25% buffer for unexpected work trips so I charge to 65% at work using schedule change to be ready when I leave. I’m at 50% overnight and at 20-35% when I get back to work depending on errands etc.
MYLR (MIC) 9m old 25,000kms 2% degradation according to Tessie.
I would be curious if anyone would advise better charging for battery life given my usage.
I'm saying one shouldn't charge to 100% without a good reason. It takes several hundred 100% depth of discharge cycles to degrade the battery to 80%, so you should spend those wisely. I personally plan on just calibrating one or two times a year and that's mostly it. Even for a road trip, going to 100% won't do anything for me as superchargers are closely spaced enough for me to do 80 to 20 percent easily. I did go up to 90% a couple of times when my hotel didn't have destination charging and I wanted to "fill up".
To me, good reasons are:
1. Battery calibration
2. Needing the range to get to the next charger
3. Away from easy charging for a bit
If one actually has good reason to charge to 100% daily, then an EV is probably not the right choice.
Did you watch Jeff Dahn's presentation? It's educational and should put a lot of your questions in the proper context.
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Where are you getting the info about charging yi 100 of you use it right away? Is that from a video you watched?
I don't understand your question. Maybe wait on the questions until you watch the video first?
I did’nt see this thread until now.
While it is true that smaller cycles most often cause less degradation in reality we are only looking at ~ 0.5% cyclic degradation or less during one year anyway.
The first 10 years calendar aging will cause degradation about 7 times more than cyclic aging.
The first year we have ~ 5% Calendar aging if charging to 80% and driving average ranges. Thats 20 times as much calendar aging as cyclic aging.
So, se can effectively forget about cyclic aging and only focus on the Calendar aging if we would like to minimize degradation.
My tip is to only try to minimize calendar aging, and as a end result cyclic aging also will be less.
As for the OP question I would not bother to charge lower than 50%. Already at 50% the regular total degradation is cut in half.
Many tests shows that the calendar aging is kind of the same between 30-55% for NCA chemistry, and about the same for NMC.
The reduction in calendar aging below ~30% is not very high so there will be a difference but it will be small.
The conclusion is that the battery need to stay most of the time well below 30% to make a difference and the difference will be small.
I always charge to 55% daily, as 30-55% makes no big change (50% would be enough for the daily drives).
When I leave the car for one week at work it is easy to plan to arrive there with ~10-20%, and I need to charge before going home anyway.
While it is true that smaller cycles most often cause less degradation in reality we are only looking at ~ 0.5% cyclic degradation or less during one year anyway.
The first 10 years calendar aging will cause degradation about 7 times more than cyclic aging.
The first year we have ~ 5% Calendar aging if charging to 80% and driving average ranges. Thats 20 times as much calendar aging as cyclic aging.
So, se can effectively forget about cyclic aging and only focus on the Calendar aging if we would like to minimize degradation.
My tip is to only try to minimize calendar aging, and as a end result cyclic aging also will be less.
As for the OP question I would not bother to charge lower than 50%. Already at 50% the regular total degradation is cut in half.
Many tests shows that the calendar aging is kind of the same between 30-55% for NCA chemistry, and about the same for NMC.
The reduction in calendar aging below ~30% is not very high so there will be a difference but it will be small.
The conclusion is that the battery need to stay most of the time well below 30% to make a difference and the difference will be small.
I always charge to 55% daily, as 30-55% makes no big change (50% would be enough for the daily drives).
When I leave the car for one week at work it is easy to plan to arrive there with ~10-20%, and I need to charge before going home anyway.
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