Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

Blower motor not working, no air from vents

This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
I wanted to see if anyone had some suggestions. I have a 2016 model s, today I was installing aftermarket LED stainless door sills that require you to unplug the LED footwell light and plug in the wiring harness into this. I did this, and they worked, but afterwards the blower fan didn't work. No air at all is coming out of the vents. I can hear the radiator fans on the front spin up and down, externally the car sounds the same. I checked all wiring harnesses, everything looks plugged in. The blower motor itself is pretty far up behind the glove box, so I very much doubt that I actually contacted that while I was removing the panel. I've seen a couple sporadic instances of this on the forum. Has anyone had this or does anyone have any guidance? It's starting to get really hot in Tennessee and no climate control is going to be a problem for a little bit.
 
Sorry if this is too obvious, but make sure that the vents you are expecting air to come out of are selected.

I mention this because several times I have cranked up the AC but nothing is blowing out of the dash vents. After going to settings, either the floor vents or the windshield vents are selected, and not the dash vents that I thought were selected the last time I used the car. I know that the windshield vents get selected when running the front defroster, so I guess they are not deselected when defroster is turn off. But I don't know how the floor vents get selected since I never select those.
 
Sorry if this is too obvious, but make sure that the vents you are expecting air to come out of are selected.

I mention this because several times I have cranked up the AC but nothing is blowing out of the dash vents. After going to settings, either the floor vents or the windshield vents are selected, and not the dash vents that I thought were selected the last time I used the car. I know that the windshield vents get selected when running the front defroster, so I guess they are not deselected when defroster is turn off. But I don't know how the floor vents get selected since I never select those.
Sometimes it is the obvious things, but sadly not in this case. No matter what climate options are pushed, the blower fan does not kick on.
 
I did uninstall the harness. Thanks for the lead on the reset process. I tried that, still didn't work. I took off the panel again today to look at everything around the blower motor and all the wiring harness connections, and I still don't see any way that I could have messed with anything, but I double checked it all and all that seems secure.
 

Attachments

  • 20220517_145933.jpg
    20220517_145933.jpg
    523.4 KB · Views: 483
  • 20220517_145920.jpg
    20220517_145920.jpg
    770.5 KB · Views: 195
I did uninstall the harness. Thanks for the lead on the reset process. I tried that, still didn't work. I took off the panel again today to look at everything around the blower motor and all the wiring harness connections, and I still don't see any way that I could have messed with anything, but I double checked it all and all that seems secure.
Did you ever figure out the issue. Mine quit yesterday. I pulled the blower out and bench ran it and it works. It won't run in the car.
 
Found the 10amp thermal fuse blown on the circuit board inside the green blower motor resistor. I found a box of them for $8 on Amazon. Soldered in a new one and it works great again. 5 hours labor tracking down the problem for an $0.80 part. Could do it again in less than 1 hour now.




20220802_204101.jpg
 
  • Informative
Reactions: Gtech
Screenshot_20220801-130637_Amazon Shopping.jpg
Found the 10amp thermal fuse blown on the circuit board inside the green blower motor resistor. I found a box of them for $8 on Amazon. Soldered in a new one and it works great again. 5 hours labor tracking down the problem for an $0.80 part. Could do it again in less than 1 hour now.




View attachment 836295
Found the 10amp thermal fuse blown on the circuit board inside the green blower motor resistor. I found a box of them for $8 on Amazon. Soldered in a new one and it works great again. 5 hours labor tracking down the problem for an $0.80 part. Could do it again in less than 1 hour now.




View attachment 836295
 
Found the 10amp thermal fuse blown on the circuit board inside the green blower motor resistor. I found a box of them for $8 on Amazon. Soldered in a new one and it works great again. 5 hours labor tracking down the problem for an $0.80 part. Could do it again in less than 1 hour now.




View attachment 836295
Many thanks 🙏 I went down this rabbit hole on my 2014 Dec Model S 85, checked fuses in GEN2 FJB (front junction box), all 4 were good (to check you use a voltmeter on OHM setting OL is good for fuse, bad will show resistance must replace).

Bought a replacement blower fan from Tesla (resistance was a bit better than the one I took out) - didn't need it my brushes are fine inspected them.

Well have a spare now.

After seeing this post I removed the fan motor controller, I used the OHM meter to test this thermal fuse, it was not OL it was showing resistance a bigger number.

Normally I would buy the replacement part, but Tesla did not have it in stock, no local parts cars to grab from, and did not want to wait a number of days in the hot hot 🔥🥵 sun.

Found the part at local electronics store, wife picked up the part and got some solder paste first time using.

I tested the new thermal fuse and it showed OL (open loop) which meant it was good.

[Remove plastic cover to access electronics under]

I cut one arm of old thermofuse bent the circuit board back, unscrewed the mossfet cover, dropped the thing, green plastic cracked (super glue later)

Note: the black part of the fuse is facing the larger thing on top, I'm not too sure if orientation makes a difference but I replaced it the same way

I had to desolder the pins, on both sides, I have this suction thing where once you get the lead melted you uses suction thing to pull up the solder.


Bent the new one in place, scraped off the thermal white residue in put it on the new thermal fuse, then while putting the two ends of wires in the circuit board, I bent the board back so I could get the screw back in place on the mosfet.


I try to desolder the three wires for the mosfet thing but I wasn't successful.

Bending works, as long as nothing breaks.

Then I used solder paste for the very first time, was able to melt the lead solder onto the pins, and beefed up the mosfet 3 pins that I was trying to desolder.


Upon plugging this in, my blower fan started to spin immediately. I just saved thousands of dollars from taking this to Tesla for a $15 part, replacement thermal fuse was $2.97 from the electronics store.


Put the glove box and interior back together, now my 10 year old over $100,000 car is whole again.

It has the face lifted bumper.

AC Air Conditioner Heat Heater Not Blowing Fixed