800W RMS Amplifier install on 2022 model Y with new 15.5V Li-ion battery/AMD system

[cleverscreenam]

I had spoken with Kicker about if the higher voltage would be alright, since the paperwork is all phrased for “12v” batteries expecting to receive 14.4 v, not the higher 15.5. They said it shouldn’t be an issue. I’m also not trying to push max watts all the time, but the increased voltage hasn’t caused any issues.

SMD Steve Meade Designs creates pretty insane audio systems, and has talked about "Missing Link" a device that increases ICE alternators to 15.6v or so. This gives him an extra wattage boost out of his amplifiers and he's been doing this for decades, so I would expect most amps to have no issues with Tesla's higher voltage.

 

[delarockyy]

SMD Steve Meade Designs creates pretty insane audio systems, and has talked about "Missing Link" a device that increases ICE alternators to 15.6v or so. This gives him an extra wattage boost out of his amplifiers and he's been doing this for decades, so I would expect most amps to have no issues with Tesla's higher voltage.

Right, because when the car is running, it'll be way higher then the 12v requirement probably all the time eh

 

[Dog_Dad-2]

I'm just posting an update in case it helps anyone else. After trying a number of different things that others have already tried, hoping I might experience different results, I finally installed the same 14 volt lithium battery Bradford_G and some others indicated they installed and resolved their system error issues. I installed a switch (tapped into the 12v, actually 15.5v, cigarette lighter/power point in the center console for power), ran the switch to an LC2i Pro, used signal sense on the LC2i Pro to turn on and send power to a Wavtech IRAD with 5 second delay, and the Wavtech IRAD turns on my JL Audio XD600/1v2 amp, which powers two JL Audio 10w3v3-4s in a ported box.

I didn't want to run power to the frunk due to not seeing any clear way to breach the firewall and due to the jump post on my 2023 Model 3 being totally different than the jump posts of prior Y and 3 models (posted two pictures of the jump post earlier in this thread). Bradford_G had suggested that maybe running power from the frunk to the amp worked for him due to the relatively long run of wire from frunk to the rear of the vehicle and enough voltage drop to prevent the car from sensing the influx of MOSFETs occurring when the amp turns on. I tested this theory in a very basic non-scientific way by connecting a 4 gauge power wire to the penthouse and simply bundling up 14 feet of the wire in the rear of the vehicle before connecting it to the 14 volt lithium battery I installed in the trunk. From the 14v battery to the amp I ran about 6 feet of 4 gauge wire. I have no idea if any of it makes sense, if I should have run equal lengths from the penthouse to the battery and from the battery to the amp, or if the long run from the penthouse to the battery was even necessary due to not trying a shorter run of wire first. All I know is that as it currently is, it all works. After countless hours trying other things that didn't work and constantly getting error codes on the car and killing the factory battery a number of times, I have decided to leave things as they are for the time being. I am sure I will eventually tinker with it some more and see if I can narrow down what the winning combination is. I'm just happy it all works and I didn't have to run a 4 gauge wire to the frunk.

The only issue I experienced after running the setup was after Level 1 charging at home for a few days and having no issues pulling a paltry 12 amps from my house, I drove the car to work and plugged into a Level 1 20 amp circuit. I then experienced an error code that said, "Power grid or vehicle issue limiting AC charging." While part of me wanted to believe it had nothing to do with the stereo system, I determined that it had to be the issue. After trying some basic troubleshooting to rule out the stereo system (e.g., disconnecting and reconnecting the charging adapter and charger, trying different charging outlets in the parking garage, and doing a basic system reboot), none of which worked, I simply disconnected the battery from under the hood and under the rear seat, flipped the circuit breakers I had running from the penthouse to the 14v battery and from the 14v battery to the amp, waited five minutes, reconnected the power under the rear seat and hood, and reset both circuit breakers. It worked and I haven't had any issues in over a week now.

I think the issue may have been due to the installation of the 14v battery. I charged the battery and observed the resting voltage to be 15.7 volts, which is .2-.3 volts above what the car's peak operating voltage typically is (15.4-15.5) when I installed the battery for the first time and connected it to the car. I think maybe the car sensed the higher voltage and thought there might be an issue. After installing the battery and running it for a while, the battery voltage normalized and was reduced to the same voltage as the OEM battery in the frunk (15.4-15.5). I would imagine that the car is incapable of sensing two separate 15.5 v sources at this point and simply sees a single source. This is pure speculation on my part, but it makes sense in my aging mind.

If I was going to do it all over again, I would first try running 14 feet or so of 4 gauge wire from the penthouse to the Wavetech IRAD with a 3-5 second delay, and the IRAD send the remote signal to turn on the amp. Maybe the relatively small amount of voltage drop and the delay (allowing the car to fully wake up and power all of its other systems) would work without installing the expensive 14v lithium battery. If that didn't work, I would go the 14v battery route but instead of running the long run I did from the penthouse to the 14v battery, I would only run as much wire as needed to connect the two points and would remove the IRAD from the equation but add in the LC2i Pro. If that didn't work, I would add the IRAD back in.

I hope this information helps others. I haven't ever posted anything in forums over the decades I have been using them to research issues, but after all of the time I spent on this project, and my wife constantly complaining about the time it consumed and being upset about the one time we took the car to get frozen yogurt and it throwing codes that we both thought meant we would have to Uber home, I thought it was worth sharing all of my bonehead mistakes with others to save them the time I wasted.

Well, I am sad to report after a couple of months I received a "Power grid or vehicle issue limiting AC charging" message that maxed out my AC charging at 14 amps. I resolved the issue temporarily by disconnecting the power (under the frunk and the penthouse), but only a few weeks or days would pass before it happened again. I pulled the auxiliary battery out, charged it, reinstalled it, updated the firmware, etc. but the issue persisted. I grew tired of constantly messing with it and pulled all of the audio equipment out and listed it on FB Marketplace and Craigslist. I wish everyone better luck than I had.

 

[cleverscreenam]

Sorry to hear that... but what's the price?

 

[G -AZ]

Well, I am sad to report after a couple of months I received a "Power grid or vehicle issue limiting AC charging" message that maxed out my AC charging at 14 amps. I resolved the issue temporarily by disconnecting the power (under the frunk and the penthouse), but only a few weeks or days would pass before it happened again. I pulled the auxiliary battery out, charged it, reinstalled it, updated the firmware, etc. but the issue persisted. I grew tired of constantly messing with it and pulled all of the audio equipment out and listed it on FB Marketplace and Craigslist. I wish everyone better luck than I had.

Did you have a battery isolator relay between the Tesla power connection and the battery that you installed?

Stinger SGP32 200 AMP Battery Relay Isolator and Relay https://a.co/d/7tn8jLL

 

[cleverscreenam]

Did you have a battery isolator relay between the Tesla power connection and the battery that you installed?

Stinger SGP32 200 AMP Battery Relay Isolator and Relay https://a.co/d/7tn8jLL

I suspect what he really needed was capacitors instead of a 2nd battery. Caps are what I put in the trunk of my Tesla, and it's been running fine for 2 years now.

 

[G -AZ]

I suspect what he really needed was capacitors instead of a 2nd battery. Caps are what I put in the trunk of my Tesla, and it's been running fine for 2 years now.

Is your Tesla running the 15.8 volt system or do you have the older 12 volt setup? What caps did you use?

I'm in the process of wiring up my 2023 model Y it has a resting voltage of 15.5v to 15.8v. I've got the stinger isolater relay installed and the 100 watt 5 Ohm resistor that provides the amplifier a trickle charge to keep its caps full to prevent an in rush of current. That silver box is a step down voltage converter it's only like 20 bucks and let's the cooling fans run at 12 volt as well as a lc2i since I didn't know how it would handle the higher voltag. The amplifier handles up to 16v. The little tiny black box is a wireless remote switch that allows you to turn the amp/lc2i/fans on or off via wireless handheld remote or a button that you can mount anywhere.

Amp is 1250rms and I'll be powering a 12" XFL in a custom black leather wrapped 2.5cuft enclosure tuned to 32hz with two 4" flared aero ports and an embossed Tesla logo. The provides very good efficiency probably will only be using around 850rms.

Hopefully this all works out I've invested 14 hours wiring this car up already and designing the Box.

 

[SiW80]

Has anyone got photos of running the power cable from the front 15v battery through the bulkhead? Assume there is a suitable grommet which can be used. Cheers!

 

[Bradford_G]

Has anyone got photos of running the power cable from the front 15v battery through the bulkhead? Assume there is a suitable grommet which can be used. Cheers!

I don't have any great pics of it. Maybe someone else will chime in who has what you're looking for.

In the interim, I can only describe it for you. With the plastic valance from under the hood pulled off, on the passenger side behind the wheel well you can reach your hand down (and also visibly see) the main grommet where the electrical on the passenger side travels through the firewall. It's big. Like 2 or 3" across. That's where I ended up poking a hole to pass the wiring through.

 

[TwoK4drSi]

I don't have any great pics of it. Maybe someone else will chime in who has what you're looking for.

In the interim, I can only describe it for you. With the plastic valance from under the hood pulled off, on the passenger side behind the wheel well you can reach your hand down (and also visibly see) the main grommet where the electrical on the passenger side travels through the firewall. It's big. Like 2 or 3" across. That's where I ended up poking a hole to pass the wiring through.

That’s only on 2021 and older. 2022+ they removed it

 

[Bradford_G]

That’s only on 2021 and older. 2022+ they removed it

Removed what? The plastic valance? The grommet?
I have a 22, so I'm confused.

 

[SiW80]

I don't have any great pics of it. Maybe someone else will chime in who has what you're looking for.

In the interim, I can only describe it for you. With the plastic valance from under the hood pulled off, on the passenger side behind the wheel well you can reach your hand down (and also visibly see) the main grommet where the electrical on the passenger side travels through the firewall. It's big. Like 2 or 3" across. That's where I ended up poking a hole to pass the wiring through.

Cheers!

 

[SiW80]

Removed what? The plastic valance? The grommet?
I have a 22, so I'm confused.

Ahhh - this will be a 2024 Highland… so guess I’ll need to wait for it to arrive and see what it has available.

If you’re referring to the grommet being removed in the later cars, what other options are available?

 

[St3phen]

Well, I am sad to report after a couple of months I received a "Power grid or vehicle issue limiting AC charging" message that maxed out my AC charging at 14 amps. I resolved the issue temporarily by disconnecting the power (under the frunk and the penthouse), but only a few weeks or days would pass before it happened again. I pulled the auxiliary battery out, charged it, reinstalled it, updated the firmware, etc. but the issue persisted. I grew tired of constantly messing with it and pulled all of the audio equipment out and listed it on FB Marketplace and Craigslist. I wish everyone better luck than I had.

You aren't alone - I disabled my setup due to errors. Annoying. I'm currently researching how the Highland is powering two amps and hoping that will lead to some ideas. Really hating this 15.5 lithium-ion set up. I guess its better though than the 40v setup the Cybertruck has

 

[SiW80]

You aren't alone - I disabled my setup due to errors. Annoying. I'm currently researching how the Highland is powering two amps and hoping that will lead to some ideas. Really hating this 15.5 lithium-ion set up. I guess its better though than the 40v setup the Cybertruck has

If you can update us on findings that would be great. Was about to buy the XS Power battery but holding for now until we know what connection points are available by the 15.5v battery.

 

[TwoK4drSi]

Removed what? The plastic valance? The grommet?
I have a 22, so I'm confused.

You can check yours but I do not have it in mine. They removed this blue grommet hole access. Someone else can confirm if they want to.

 

[SiW80]

You can check yours but I do not have it in mine. They removed this blue grommet hole access. Someone else can confirm if they want to.

This seems to be the older version - newer versions running the 15.5v lithium battery seemed to use a grommet on the left side but I cannot be certain.

 

[MountainManGuy]

Anyone else try this yet? I'm wanting to add an amp and was going to go the XSPower battery route but it sounds like even then you can still throw errors?

 

[MountainManGuy]

Well, I am sad to report after a couple of months I received a "Power grid or vehicle issue limiting AC charging" message that maxed out my AC charging at 14 amps. I resolved the issue temporarily by disconnecting the power (under the frunk and the penthouse), but only a few weeks or days would pass before it happened again. I pulled the auxiliary battery out, charged it, reinstalled it, updated the firmware, etc. but the issue persisted. I grew tired of constantly messing with it and pulled all of the audio equipment out and listed it on FB Marketplace and Craigslist. I wish everyone better luck than I had.

I don't know how anyone is getting this to work. I just installed my sub and amp today and already received this same message. I don't even have 30 minutes on the system yet and it already threw the error. I am using the same XS battery and a 500w amp. All of this is going to be removed from the car and returned to the stores I bought it from. It's not worth it to deal with constant error messages and crippled charging.

 

[Bradford_G]

I don't know how anyone is getting this to work. I just installed my sub and amp today and already received this same message. I don't even have 30 minutes on the system yet and it already threw the error. I am using the same XS battery and a 500w amp. All of this is going to be removed from the car and returned to the stores I bought it from. It's not worth it to deal with constant error messages and crippled charging.

Sorry to hear about the problems that you all are having. Not knowing your connections points, types of wiring you're using, method of wiring you're doing, etc., I'm at a loss for recommendations.
I can say that since my install I have had ZERO problems with it. Listened to an audiobook on the way home from work yesterday but blasted the bass this morning on the way into work. No issues.
I'd say if you can't get it to work, then definitely don't degrade your car/usability experience.