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2nd run of camera switch that show a front image on the touch screen

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Just dropped my car off for service. Before I did though, I completed the post-APE install of the backup camera... it works flawlessly!

I shot some (hopefully usable... some of it was pretty hard to do one handed in the dark) video of the full install process; I plan to edit it this weekend and share it with you guys early next week. Note that this is all with prototype components ((way too long) cables from Tesla, prototype camera switcher with hand-resoldered Z type connectors and a sketchy project box, hand soldered non-pcb OBD adapter, etc). Nevertheless, hopefully it is helpful for you guys for understanding the install process on an AP2+ vehicle.

Here's a quick teaser:
 
Just dropped my car off for service. Before I did though, I completed the post-APE install of the backup camera... it works flawlessly!

I shot some (hopefully usable... some of it was pretty hard to do one handed in the dark) video of the full install process; I plan to edit it this weekend and share it with you guys early next week. Note that this is all with prototype components ((way too long) cables from Tesla, prototype camera switcher with hand-resoldered Z type connectors and a sketchy project box, hand soldered non-pcb OBD adapter, etc). Nevertheless, hopefully it is helpful for you guys for understanding the install process on an AP2+ vehicle.

Here's a quick teaser:
Excellent! You really need a cameraman! :D Still very useful. A complete walkthrough when all the parts are in hand will be great. Taking apart virgin cars like this (especially where you have no service manuals) makes one more nervous than usual.

I used to read Ford service manuals from cover to cover back in the day and this ‘ignorance’ we are forced into is just ridiculous.
 
Excellent! You really need a cameraman! :D Still very useful. A complete walkthrough when all the parts are in hand will be great. Taking apart virgin cars like this (especially where you have no service manuals) makes one more nervous than usual.

I used to read Ford service manuals from cover to cover back in the day and this ‘ignorance’ we are forced into is just ridiculous.

I had my wife help me for the exterior stuff, but she wasn't available when I was doing the interior work unfortunately.

Video of the whole process is up!

 
Any reason that you could not use the fish tape directly rather than force bending the body panel to shove the cable in from the top?

Yes, I actually have a couple of takes that got edited out where I tried just that without success (I tried from both the front and the back). At least on my car, the connectors were too wide to pass through the gap. That would have been the preferred approach if they fit!
 
Been a busy and exciting couple of weeks, so I wanted to post an update so everyone here could follow along with the build progress!

1) We have received the HSD Z connectors from the OEM that Tesla uses. These have been shipped to the board production team to be assembled on the switcher boards:
HSDZ.jpg


2) After receiving an overwhelmingly positive response from everyone via email, we have placed an order for 50pcs of custom HSD cable from the Tesla OEM so you guys don't need to find places to stash way too much extra cable and don't need to go through the hassle of ordering these parts from Tesla. These will be available on a first come, first served basis (and since they have an MOQ and a long ~10week lead time, once they're gone they're gone!), so don't forget to email or PM @artsci if you want a set. The "set" comprises of one long 3400mm "jack to jack" cable that plugs between your new camera and your camera switcher, and one short 1000mm "jack to jack" cable that plugs between your existing camera feed (in your footwell OR after your auto-pilot engine) and the camera switcher.

3) On the CAN bus kit side, pandas have arrived for everyone that has a deposit in so far:
Pandas.jpg

These will all be flashed with the custom firmware I'm working on needed to drive the reverse signal on your camera switcher.

4) I have completed a preliminary LIN bus implementation in the Panda firmware, which will allow us to utilize the NXP UJA1023 to get 8 programmable IO ports for future projects and expandability. If you're curious (or want to help!), you can follow along on my progress here: appleguru/panda

5) While we are still a few weeks away from the final PCBs for the CAN bus kits (@Kalud is putting the finishing touches on the design now), @BearBu has asked that I make him a prototype this weekend so he can get a jumpstart on testing for his camera projects. I am in the process of making this now, and I will be mapping the reverse signals that we need for the camera switcher, as well as some additional signals like left turn/right turn/hazards/etc):
PrototypeGiraffe2.jpg

ProtoTypeGiraffe1.jpg


6) Finally, we need your help! @Kalud and I are working on selecting the final connectors that will make it onto the CAN bus kit boards.

We want these to be removable, so you guys can easily unplug things from the car. The current front runners are some really nice (and expensive...) Phoenix contact removable terminal blocks (pictured at the bottom):
Connectors.jpg


These are available both with and without screws to secure them into place (so they don't wriggle out). We are leaning towards the ones with the screws, but after playing with them the ones without the screws may be more user friendly (plenty secure and easier to plug/unplug (no tools needed)). In this configuration, we would have a 10position terminal block with fused +12V, GND, and 8 output pins (reverse and 7 spares for other projects/future expandability), as well as a 2position terminal block with an extra output for fused +12V and GND.

Alternatively, we are considering using a standard RJ45/8P8C jack for output instead of the terminal block. This is much less expensive (~$1 instead of ~$18 for the connector), and CAT5 connectors and cable is very common/can be found everywhere. If we go this route, it would mean you would be plugging in a CAT5 cable instead of flying leads to connect your camera switcher to the CAN bus kit. We would still provide a 2pos header for aux power out.

What do you guys think? Select an option and reply below (I wish I could insert a poll mid thread...):
1) 2pos + 10pos terminal block with security screws
2) 2pos + 10pos terminal block without security screws
3) 2pos terminal block with security screws for Aux power out + RJ45/8PC8 connector for power and signal output
4) 2pos terminal block without security screws for Aux power out + RJ45/8PC8 connector for power and signal output
 
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Bravo, excellent (and much appreciated) progress! I vote for whatever approach is optimal for the output connections, considering both simplicity of installation and ruggedness/reliability. Not having the experience that you and artsci have in such matters, I have to trust your judgment. Throwing a mental dart, I'm guessing it might be option 3 above? The Phoenix terminal blocks do look very elegant, though, and might be more rugged?
 
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I am so glad you guys can do this project...developing cables, pcb boards, fishing routs....
I am also glad I backed of buying the camera and pcb boards...I dont think I could have fished the cords without damaging my MS.
My hope is that you continue to refine this DYI project until some dork like me can be confidant enough to tackle it. Or be in distance range to hire one of you!!
 
Been a busy and exciting couple of weeks, so I wanted to post an update so everyone here could follow along with the build progress!

1) We have received the HSD Z connectors from the OEM that Tesla uses. These have been shipped to the board production team to be assembled on the switcher boards:
View attachment 322924

2) After receiving an overwhelmingly positive response from everyone via email, we have placed an order for 50pcs of custom HSD cable from the Tesla OEM so you guys don't need to find places to stash way too much extra cable and don't need to go through the hassle of ordering these parts from Tesla. These will be available on a first come, first served basis (and since they have an MOQ and a long ~10week lead time, once they're gone they're gone!), so don't forget to email or PM @artsci if you want a set. The "set" comprises of one long 3400mm "jack to jack" cable that plugs between your new camera and your camera switcher, and one short 1000mm "jack to jack" cable that plugs between your existing camera feed (in your footwell OR after your auto-pilot engine) and the camera switcher.

3) On the CAN bus kit side, pandas have arrived for everyone that has a deposit in so far:
View attachment 322931
These will all be flashed with the custom firmware I'm working on needed to drive the reverse signal on your camera switcher.

4) I have completed a preliminary LIN bus implementation in the Panda firmware, which will allow us to utilize the NXP UJA1023 to get 8 programmable IO ports for future projects and expandability. If you're curious (or want to help!), you can follow along on my progress here: appleguru/panda

5) While we are still a few weeks away from the final PCBs for the CAN bus kits (@Kalud is putting the finishing touches on the design now), @BearBu has asked that I make him a prototype this weekend so he can get a jumpstart on testing for his camera projects. I am in the process of making this now, and I will be mapping the reverse signals that we need for the camera switcher, as well as some additional signals like left turn/right turn/hazards/etc):
View attachment 322935
View attachment 322936

6) Finally, we need your help! @Kalud and I are working on selecting the final connectors that will make it onto the CAN bus kit boards.

We want these to be removable, so you guys can easily unplug things from the car. The current front runners are some really nice (and expensive...) Phoenix contact removable terminal blocks (pictured at the bottom):
View attachment 322937

These are available both with and without screws to secure them into place (so they don't wriggle out). We are leaning towards the ones with the screws, but after playing with them the ones without the screws may be more user friendly (plenty secure and easier to plug/unplug (no tools needed)). In this configuration, we would have a 10position terminal block with fused +12V, GND, and 8 output pins (reverse and 7 spares for other projects/future expandability), as well as a 2position terminal block with an extra output for fused +12V and GND.

Alternatively, we are considering using a standard RJ45/8P8C jack for output instead of the terminal block. This is much less expensive (~$1 instead of ~$18 for the connector), and CAT5 connectors and cable is very common/can be found everywhere. If we go this route, it would mean you would be plugging in a CAT5 cable instead of flying leads to connect your camera switcher to the CAN bus kit. We would still provide a 2pos header for aux power out.

What do you guys think? Select an option and reply below (I wish I could insert a poll mid thread...):
1) 2pos + 10pos terminal block with security screws
2) 2pos + 10pos terminal block without security screws
3) 2pos terminal block with security screws for Aux power out + RJ45/8PC8 connector for power and signal output
4) 2pos terminal block without security screws for Aux power out + RJ45/8PC8 connector for power and signal output

Whoa, whoa, whoa.... Are you saying that you've found a way to reverse the video for the front camera now? And, you are trying to plan for future video inputs in your device beyond front/rear cameras? You might want to brace yourself because I'm going to throw my money so hard at you.
 
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I'm in Phoenix. We could do it together.
Thanks for the offer.....I want to let this project mature some before jumping back in. But doing this as a team effort has a lot of appeal. I installed a Blackvue dash cam and needed to pop off body panels and fish wires that would not fish thru the gaps...learned my lesson. This DIY project is not, and may never have been, within my my scope of competency. DIY is supposed to be fun, and the end game is supposed to be rewarding.
 
Whoa, whoa, whoa.... Are you saying that you've found a way to reverse the video for the front camera now? And, you are trying to plan for future video inputs in your device beyond front/rear cameras? You might want to brace yourself because I'm going to throw my money so hard at you.

Unfortunately no. The can bus kit I am making for you guys doesn’t do any video processing; it just reads signals from the car’s CAN bus so the correct camer afeed gets displayed when you’re in drive/reverse.

I did take a stab at flipping the switch image the correct way, but due to the way it was designed could not get get anything persistent to work. @BearBu is working on a system that actually decodes the video feed and does some signal processing, so we may have a solution in the future.
 
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I took a look at my Model X the other day in the area proposed for bending the body panel enough to get the cable through. That's not going to happen for me. No flexibility there at all. So I am going to have to try the fish tape and see if I can find a gap big enough.

What is the chance I can cut and splice the cable or remove the end and put it back on again if I need to?
 
I took a look at my Model X the other day in the area proposed for bending the body panel enough to get the cable through. That's not going to happen for me. No flexibility there at all. So I am going to have to try the fish tape and see if I can find a gap big enough.

What is the chance I can cut and splice the cable or remove the end and put it back on again if I need to?

Cut and splice is a probably a non-starter because these cables are actually pretty sensitive/are engineered to very tight tolerances for impedance/etc. The rear camera feed is ~1Gbps. There is some tolerance for signal loss, so maybe it would work with the shorter cables we are buying but definitely is not recommended.

FWIW, the panel gap doesn’t really “flex”. It’s pretty rock solid/rigid, even on the S. The cable basically *almost* fits through and just needs some extra persuasion to fit.

You may be able to fish, especially if you can attach the cable to your tape in a way that doesn’t increase its width at all (maybe use a sacrificial mating connector/cable and tape the cable to the fish tape so the connector is secure but not covered in tape?

I did not have any luck fishing, but I also had crap fish tape and was under some time pressure so didn’t have a lot of time to experiment. Maybe when we get the final kits and cables I’ll try a round 2.
 
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