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250wh per pile to get performance rated range of 315 miles

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Wheels, tires, driving style, and climate make all of the difference. It may not be possible to do it in your particular situation but I guarantee it could be improved from where you are now with a few simple changes.
The all season 20 inch tires don’t seem to be much different from 18 inch wheels, maybe 10 - 20 miles less range than 18 inch?

But since the performance comes with an epa of 315 miles that means the battery will never give you an estimated range over 315? Even if you could go 340 miles actual
 
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I have a new question, I looked at the energy graph app for the first time and it’s showing completely different results from my estimated range and WH

My battery says 227 miles right now but the energy graph says I can go 244 miles and it says my average consumption is 235wh while my odometer says my average consumption is 248 last trip
 
I have a new question, I looked at the energy graph app for the first time and it’s showing completely different results from my estimated range and WH

My battery says 227 miles right now but the energy graph says I can go 244 miles and it says my average consumption is 235wh while my odometer says my average consumption is 248 last trip
Here is my best 15 mile energy graph. It says 330 miles of range as opposed to 230 miles for the EPA number. Model 3 Performance on 18” wheels and Hankook iON EVO AS tires.

IMG_1843.jpeg
 
Here is my best 15 mile energy graph. It says 330 miles of range as opposed to 230 miles for the EPA number. Model 3 Performance on 18” wheels and Hankook iON EVO AS tires.

View attachment 1013909
Oh I thought you had 20 inch wheels, now I’m disappointed I thought I was going to get a decent range increase by going to all season 20 inch tires

Most of your good range is from the wheel size, I thought you improved your range just by switching your summer 20 inch tires to 20 inch all season
 
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You will never get the EPA rated range unless you drive exactly the way the EPA test does, and that’s not possible.

Why do you even care?? You bought a car that has over 500HP - why does a few miles of range even matter? Do you regularly try to drive 315 miles without stopping?
I just wanted to see if I could do it

I didn’t only buy this for having fun with the acceleration I also bought it for work commute and traveling so whenever I do one of those 2 things I would like to have best the best range it can get

I go to Florida 2 or 3 times per year and it’s a 480 mile trip
 
I have a new question, I looked at the energy graph app for the first time and it’s showing completely different results from my estimated range and WH

My battery says 227 miles right now but the energy graph says I can go 244 miles and it says my average consumption is 235wh while my odometer says my average consumption is 248 last trip
Energy is based on last 5/15/30 miles depending on which you select. Your last trip would be averaged over the whole trip.

I thought you would have looked at Energy a long time ago, that was one of the first things people suggested when asking about efficiency.
 
Energy is based on last 5/15/30 miles depending on which you select. Your last trip would be averaged over the whole trip.

I thought you would have looked at Energy a long time ago, that was one of the first things people suggested when asking about efficiency.
Yea only have had the car 3 days, just now getting use to it, customized what apps I wanted the bottom of my screen today

Still not sure how to turn on my brights and leave them on, I have the lights on auto but they never go full bright, i can flash my brights with the left stalk but that’s it
 
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Instead of losing 12 miles while parked today I instead gained 10 miles now the estimate is increasing

That is interesting. Back in 2014, when I got an early Model S, the BMS was not as sophisticated and things like that would happen from time to time. The range would jump up or down. But these days that is almost unheard of. One possible explanation is the battery got cold. The BMS will then subtract some range due to the temperature of the battery. Once it warms up the range shows up again.
 
That is interesting. Back in 2014, when I got an early Model S, the BMS was not as sophisticated and things like that would happen from time to time. The range would jump up or down. But these days that is almost unheard of. One possible explanation is the battery got cold. The BMS will then subtract some range due to the temperature of the battery. Once it warms up the range shows up again.
That must be it because it was 32 degrees that morning even though it warmed up to 60 degrees by noon it must have still been remembering it was 32 when I started driving
 
Wheels, tires, driving style, and climate make all of the difference. It may not be possible to do it in your particular situation but I guarantee it could be improved from where you are now with a few simple changes.
Oh no doubt….on my 20mile (one way) commute to work I could easily hit 280wh/mile if I drive the speed limit (55mph) and the weather is 50-60deg. Same conditions, If I drive 75mph (flow of traffic in left lane) I hit 310wh/mile. On my last ski trip I avg 438wh/mile with 15deg temps, climate set to auto at 70deg , driving 75mph on my 19” snow tire setup. Many variables will impact wh/mile. I‘m just saying where I drive, how I drive, my wheel setups…..I’m averaging 330wh/mile lifetime lol.
 
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Do you plan to drive 480 miles at 50-55mph with HVAC off so you can get 315 miles? If you're going to drive 70mph+ with HVAC on, then it doesn't matter if you have 18s or all seasons or 20s, you're not going to get 315 miles
I would still increase the range I would get otherwise though right

Like maybe I’d get 270 doing that instead of 240 with the right tires

I would like to keep these 20s because I like the way they look more than I thought I would, but I originally planned to get ev01 18 inch wheels for the performance so I would get more range but if I get some all season 20s I’m not sure if the difference between that and the 18s would be worth it or not

I’m curious to see the range difference between all season 20s and all season 18s
 
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The BMS balances the cells at any state of charge. The battery chargers used in RC toys use 'top balancing'. They charge the battery until full and then balance the cells to make sure all are equally full. It's a very old and method from the early days. The BS in an EV is much more sophisticated. It doesn't need to charge to 100% to balance.

There is a reason why you should once in a while charge close to 100% and drive down very low. There is no possible way to measure accurately how much energy is left in a battery. The BMS has all kinds of data and keeps track of how much went in and out. But it's not perfectly accurate. At around 50% the BMS the least accurate. Near the top and and the the bottom end, the data from the battery allows for a more accurate estimate. If you never charge your car near full nor let it drop low, the BMS has to work from less accurate data for a long time and the errors can add up. It can get less accurate. Once you charge close to full or drive very low, the BMS gets more accurate data again and can basically 'recalibrate' itself. Keep in mind, the BMS can get a little less accurate with it's estimate. It is not the battery that gets looses some capacity or gets lazy or anything like that. Charging high and then driving low doesn't condition the battery. The battery is always fine. It;s just the BMS losing some of it's accuracy.
There was a very good (albeit lengthy) post on this that I keep bookmarked:
 
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