Hello all, I have been working on a 2013 s p85. No high voltage, contactors not energizing and staying open. I have done hvil pinout and isolation test on whole high voltage system. What I found was no isolation faults, but the hvil have no voltage reading coming from the bms. Also I don't have any hvil ground on the other end of the loop going back to the battery, just open. I suspect that the battery may need to come down and inspect the two bms plugs x35 and x36. The battery says 26%. I ran scan my tesla and get no data from battery. Can anyone give me some pointers on correct direction here?
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2013 s p85 hvil no voltage from bms
- Thread starter Coloman
- Start date
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- Tags
- bms hvil isolation fault
brainhouston
Active Member
Low voltage connector to battery is spring loaded, possibly it's not seated all the way
It's hard to reach there but try to push it down
Same can happen to hv connector, it also has pin for hvil that has to be seated all the way
What's the history of the car?
Was pack ever removed or something else worked on?
It's hard to reach there but try to push it down
Same can happen to hv connector, it also has pin for hvil that has to be seated all the way
What's the history of the car?
Was pack ever removed or something else worked on?
I'm thinking that the same thing (push down on the connectors) because I looks like the battery is newer than 2013. Also the front of the battery says "waiting for a box" in sharpie not sure what that means. 
. Thinking tesla swapped it out under warranty at some point. I'll give that a try and circle around. Thanks for your help.
. Thinking tesla swapped it out under warranty at some point. I'll give that a try and circle around. Thanks for your help.
Gtech
Active Member
Try to reseat connectors indeed. I believe Tesla is using a 'special' tool for that, like a big set of pliers. If no luck you could check the BMS fuses since BMS is the passthrough for CAN components that are missing. Otherwise dropping the pack to look at x035 and x036 is not a bad idea.
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Hello, I found that indeed both x35 and x36 were completely unplugged. The spring-loaded plug assembly was cracked. Not sure the history on the car but I suspect someone replaced the battery because the shell is very clean underneath. After some fiddling I finally got the plugs seated. My problem at the moment is that the bms is showing battery imbalance errors. I ran smt app and found that I have 30mv imbalance with one cell showing lower voltage. Please see the attached. Is there anyway that i can force the car to charve? The battery is showing 0%. I have heard that some people can charge with more than 30mv imbalance. Is this true? I am hoping that if I can charge than the battery may balance. Its been sitting since may of this year.
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brainhouston
Active Member
Good news is that error is not about 30mV difference
Something is not matching.. bad fuse or bad connection somewhere...
teslamotorsclub.com
Something is not matching.. bad fuse or bad connection somewhere...
Bms errors unknown
Hi everybody! my 2013 p85 stopped on the highway with bms errors f059 w059 didn’t restart and stop all connection with contactors. 12v system not charging from main battery. Charge port without any lights. Do you know a sort of this errors? the car is far from any service place.
teslamotorsclub.com
brainhouston
Active Member
u have a code for Fuse...
and in ur other post u said u only get 90-115v total (should be 350ish)
i'd start with replacing fuse...
and in ur other post u said u only get 90-115v total (should be 350ish)
i'd start with replacing fuse...
I'm so grateful for all your help here. Thank you I will have to pull the pack down and check the fuse. I'm just curious, the code I have is saying that the power of fuse has reached his life span. I was reading somewhere else that this will show up on all Teslas after a certain point but does not impact drivability. Is that not true?
brainhouston
Active Member
yes its a pre-programmed value based on time
there were 2 old types of fuse, dumb one (ceramic with sand) n smart one with its own battery/electronics
in any case u want the latest version that is Current powered (no internal battery needed), u will need to change setting also with Toolbox
dumb ones will eventually burn themselves out so at wot it might trip with age
smart ones with battery, i'm not sure, some say they will trip earlier as battery ages n discharges...
current powered ones will last forever (hopefully)
there were 2 old types of fuse, dumb one (ceramic with sand) n smart one with its own battery/electronics
in any case u want the latest version that is Current powered (no internal battery needed), u will need to change setting also with Toolbox
dumb ones will eventually burn themselves out so at wot it might trip with age
smart ones with battery, i'm not sure, some say they will trip earlier as battery ages n discharges...
current powered ones will last forever (hopefully)
Hello again. Here is what I have done since I was here last.
Removed the battery. Opened up and found small amount of water in almost every cell. Remove all the modules from the battery and dried them out on a rack testing the isolation between the terminal and the side rail. After several days of this installed all the batteries once the isolation was good. Put everything back and now I'm still getting an isolation error that I had before f123 and w123. Martin, I read in another thread that you had a friend clear the f123 code from the bms. If the isolation is gone will the code clear on its own? I'm pretty sure the case is no. Any help here would be much appreciated. Yes I know about the dangers of high voltage and taking necessary precautions.
Removed the battery. Opened up and found small amount of water in almost every cell. Remove all the modules from the battery and dried them out on a rack testing the isolation between the terminal and the side rail. After several days of this installed all the batteries once the isolation was good. Put everything back and now I'm still getting an isolation error that I had before f123 and w123. Martin, I read in another thread that you had a friend clear the f123 code from the bms. If the isolation is gone will the code clear on its own? I'm pretty sure the case is no. Any help here would be much appreciated. Yes I know about the dangers of high voltage and taking necessary precautions.
brainhouston
Active Member
It seems that older battery/software might need to clear code after fixing but newer don't
On my 2016 X the f123 error cleared itself once i dried the battery
teslamotorsclub.com
On my 2016 X the f123 error cleared itself once i dried the battery
Car died. BMS errors f123, w123, w073, w035, w142, w158
This is a very interesting thread! I recall from our house flood that the crew ran dehumidifiers until the rooms reached a target humidity. What if, when you believe the pack to be dry, you temporarily seal the pack but place a humidity probe in there (safety first!) for some period of time...
teslamotorsclub.com
Thank you Brian, Good write up thank you for sharing your work. So is that a for sure deal that you've heard older model s bms codes need to be manually cleared? Also any idea who could do this? Maybe there's a tool I can purchase? I'm going to go through the pack again and see if I miss something. When I put all the modules back the isolation was testing perfect. But now I'm getting a couple volts leaking checking from weather side if the disconnected fuse and ground. Also I meant either side of the fuse connection and I'm getting in the 400s Meg ohms. Seems like this would be fine, before I dried out I was getting .08 Megohms.
brainhouston
Active Member
I think it's for sure cause I've read from few posts claiming that, the only common thing was older cars...
U can reset with toolbox or DM LayZ, he can do it.
I'm not sure how u testing isolation but I wasn't been able to due to batteries, my Klein megger would refuse to measure due to voltage presence...
BMS is connected to hv on both sides of contractors with 4 pin cable, u need to disconnect that first to do any measurements I believe but I never tried.
Also with this plug connected you'll see about 170v at pyro fuse (with fuse removed)
U can reset with toolbox or DM LayZ, he can do it.
I'm not sure how u testing isolation but I wasn't been able to due to batteries, my Klein megger would refuse to measure due to voltage presence...
BMS is connected to hv on both sides of contractors with 4 pin cable, u need to disconnect that first to do any measurements I believe but I never tried.
Also with this plug connected you'll see about 170v at pyro fuse (with fuse removed)
I had to remove each module and meg from the aluminum rail to either battery terminal. I retested several batteries after several hour of drying and ohms kept increasing until there was no short present. I think the integrated aluminum mounting rail must have been a problem because I have see some newer modules in photos online that had what looked like white plastic rails or at least isolated in plastic. it appears the tiniest drop of water between the battery cells and the outer aluminum mounting rail would transfer voltage. Thank you for your help I will contact LayZ.
I cleared the bms errors with toolbox paid subscription. Car is operational now. But I cannot charge because of an error still present. "Charge port component missing" is what it says. I cannot find anything missing with the charge port. The port door opens but the latch will not allow me to insert the charger. I can manually slip a peice of plastic in there to hold open the latch then insert the charger. But it gives the same error. Any ideas?
brainhouston
Active Member
It could be the hv battery connector again, did u make sure it's seated good?
Trace CP harness to make sure everything connected.
Did u have issues with CP before?
Trace CP harness to make sure everything connected.
Did u have issues with CP before?
The car will go into drive and the wheels will turn under its own power, its on a lift currently. I can hear the contactors operating and I'm getting high voltage throughout the car . So that's a huge success with drying out the battery pack and clearing the isolation faults. Just can't seem to figure out what could be the missing component.
Gtech
Active Member
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