12V Access: Model S 2021 Refresh

[vcor]

Do we know what is the max current draw (before fault) from that connection?

I tested it to 2 amps (30 seconds) with a resistive load. The Qi chargers can consume up to about 1.5 amps if both phone slots are in use, charging at the maximum rate. So I expect you may be able to pull a bit more, but not with phones charging. It likely depends on the type of load and how long the load remains.

I run some LED lighting (about 1 amp max) and a 4K dual dashcam (500 ma) and have not had any issues, including charging one phone at the same time.

Interesting that @Proppilot can pull 5 amps, but that may only be for a brief period since his safety breaker tripped first.

 

[Proppilot]

Interesting that @Proppilot can pull 5 amps, but that may only be for a brief period since his safety breaker tripped first.

Yes, it is briefly while toggling my manual switches to adjust the screen in and out. My original circuit had a 5 amp auto fuse and when the screen got to the limit it popped the fuse immediately thus my assumption it can pull that much very briefly as if it was less, I would have thought it would trip the soft fuse in the car first.

 

[GetYourWheels]

Yes, it is briefly while toggling my manual switches to adjust the screen in and out. My original circuit had a 5 amp auto fuse and when the screen got to the limit it popped the fuse immediately thus my assumption it can pull that much very briefly as if it was less, I would have thought it would trip the soft fuse in the car first.

How does the fuse reset after it pops? Does it do it automatically?

 

[Proppilot]

How does the fuse reset after it pops? Does it do it automatically?

The soft fuse in the car resets automatically after some time.

 

[vcor]

Generally, you can expect it to reset (if the short is gone) in less than 90 minutes. I had one non-critical line that I shorted where it wouldn't reset for 12 days, and then after a software update, it reset. Reboots did not reset the e-fuse. I didn't try disconnecting the 16v battery, which might have worked.

 

[Kurtbe]

Hi Guys,
Does anybody know about an 'always on' 16V connection in the 2023 Model S that is at least 10Amps? In my 2017, I used the ODB connector in the drivers' footwell. "VCOR" mentions the ODB in his overview, but states only 1A and only 'on' in camp mode if I understood well). The old ODB used to deliver 10A and was always on. Another source was the power to open the rear trunk in the 2017. is that still available in the 2023?
I do not have the new car yet, but I would like to prepare and find out if I can repeat my former projects.

 

[n2mb_racing]

Hi Guys,
Does anybody know about an 'always on' 16V connection in the 2023 Model S that is at least 10Amps? In my 2017, I used the ODB connector in the drivers' footwell. "VCOR" mentions the ODB in his overview, but states only 1A and only 'on' in camp mode if I understood well). The old ODB used to deliver 10A and was always on. Another source was the power to open the rear trunk in the 2017. is that still available in the 2023?
I do not have the new car yet, but I would like to prepare and find out if I can repeat my former projects.

You can tap at the jump start post under the hood. But you need to add a fuse because it is not fused there. I've pulled over 100A there for a minute or two. Someone else posted they used it to charge their portable power station.

 

[Kurtbe]

Thank you n2mb, I actually need to get to the 2nd row seats inside the car to power a fridge (100W - 9Amp) continuous for many hours...
This works well in my 2017 via the OBD-II. I am looking for a comparable option.
(can you confirm whether there still is an ODB-II connection in the drivers footwell, or is it gone?)
Thanks, Kurt

 

[Kurtbe]

Update:
There IS a ODB-II connector. I found it in the connector database as connector X436, and it sits indeed left of the drivers' footwell. Pin 11 would be Always On, pins 4 & 5 are Ground. HOWEVER, if I interpret correctly, the plus wire to pin 11 only seems to be 0.35mm² in diameter. This would mean that @ 16V, it can only handle about 5A, and would likely be (E-)fused around 2-3Amps. In which case running my fridge on it would be impossible... Can anybody confirm this?
Thanks beforehand...

 

[n2mb_racing]

What about the accessory connector? Does that stay powered on sentry mode? I don't have a car now.

 

[vcor]

ODB power and the Power Outlet are not powered on in Sentry mode (on a 2021+ Model S/X). This is different than the prior years. I also question the power available at the ODB on the 2021+ S/X. I did test it to 1 amp, but 9 amps seems like a lot to pull. You'd have to try it out and see if the eFuse trips.

 

[Kurtbe]

You can tap at the jump start post under the hood. But you need to add a fuse because it is not fused there. I've pulled over 100A there for a minute or two. Someone else posted they used it to charge their portable power station.

I read somewhere else in this forum that the new battery will only provide 6.9Ah (as opposed to 33 before), would I be able to run a 90Wx15V consumer (after DC-Dc protection) from that battery?

 

[Kurtbe]

ODB power and the Power Outlet are not powered on in Sentry mode (on a 2021+ Model S/X). This is different than the prior years. I also question the power available at the ODB on the 2021+ S/X. I did test it to 1 amp, but 9 amps seems like a lot to pull. You'd have to try it out and see if the eFuse trips.

I reserved the car today. I will try and ask the service centre if they can provide some moere info. This being my second Tesla, they may be a bit more leneant...
And if not, then indeed trial and error will teach me.
Thanks for replying.

 

[Nosken]

I am not sure of the output, but I have a heated ski boot bag I plug in on the way to the hill. I have a 12V extension wire I run from the auxiliary power outlet (Cigarette Lighter) inside the console. It draws a lot, but works. Specs for the boot bag Thermal Trekker Heated Ski Boot Bag (62L)

• Dual Plugs: 120V wall plug &amp7 12V (7.5A) automobile plug

Extension cord https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019H3MI6E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Kurtbe]

Thank you Nosken for the feedback, but this is my original question:
"Hi Guys,
Does anybody know about an 'always on' 16V connection in the 2023 Model S that is at least 10Amps?"
The auxiliary power switched off when the car goes to sleep. I want to run a fridge, so it needs to be 'always on'.

 

[Kurtbe]

Model S 2022+ Project: connect fridge (10Amp), 2 additional USB chargers and some extra LED lights which all work whilst car is asleep.​

Source is Li-ion battery 16V, 6.9Ah!!
Left and Right footwell hold VCLeft and VCRight (see electrical diagrams in file MS_Sop16-Sop20230118.pdf), See service manual 17: electrical, 1715: Electronic Control Modules, Module – Body Controller – LH and/or RH and 1710 Harnesses, Harness-Body-RH, which shows detailed picture of connector X-036/X-056
All connectors are on top of the module, also the feed from the battery is 16mm² = J14 X036 (left) and 56(right). This module has connectors x-030, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38 and 39.
Assuming that:

• The thickness of the wire corresponds to the amperage it can handle and,
• That the current drawn through the cable will be monitored and if deemed incorrect, will trip the corresponding E-fuse.

This seems the path to follow:

• step 1: is to locate a cable that will allow for the current to be drawn from it.
• Step 2: the monitoring system should “see” a normal behaviour so as not to trip the fuse.
• Step 3: power always on or not?

e.g. 1: connector X-034 – 3 leads to the front seat controller with a 3mm² wire. This can handle a lot of power (step 1), But it will also be seen as ‘normal’ if a constant current is used on that wire. Assuming that the wire is used to supply power to the seat heater, then using power from this wire on a constant base will be seen as “normal”, as long as it is not in combination with the use of the seat heating (step 2). And final question: is there power on the wire when the car is asleep? This can be tested by powering the car off in the main screen under after which power can be measured with a (Volt) meter (step 3).

e.g. 2: The ODB-II connector provides an always on wire on pin 12. (step 3), the wire is 0.35mm² and will therefor only handle around 5 to 6A @16V (step 1). It will probably be fused around 2 to 3Amps (I guess). Using this source as constant will be seen as “normal” (Step 2).

After studying the Wiring diagrams and looking for cables that are at least 2mm², the following options appear:

Front footwells:

The X-036 connector (LH) or 056 (RH) is the supply of the Module as is by far the thickest cable (16mm²) This cable should not be able to monitor any additional current because anything might be switched on in the car during use. It might however be able to monitor abnormal current when the car is asleep. (Drawing 10A per hour means that the 16V battery will need to be charged almost every half hour). Then again, in Camp mode and with 10A drawn from the 12V socket would create the same situation.

Connecting to this cable seems the most favourable option but is also quite visible. But it might just be so that this connector allows insert connections in the slots that are visible! (Any body knows?)

Body Controller LH:

• X-031(2mm² cable that runs to the 12V Power Socket, pin 1), but this is not always on. It might be made to be so by feeding it directly from the X-036/X-056.
• X-030A (2mm² cable that runs to liftgate, pin 28 & 29 BU & YE. Runs along doors on floor, might be always on: it was in the older model S.)
• X-034 (3mm² cable that runs the front seat controller, pin 3, easy access and out of sight, but probably not always on: to be measured)

Back of car:

• X-030A (2mm² cable that runs to liftgate, pin 28 & 29 BU & YE. Connects to X-391 above safety belt, might be always on: it was in the older model S.)

Body Controller RH

• X-447: (3mm² that runs to External Amplifier and will provide power but when car is ON.)
• X-054: (3mm² that runs to front seat controller, possibly only when car is ON.)
• X-059: (5mm², but for HVAC… better left alone)

Best bet:

• For fridge: connect 12V socket with bridge to 12V “always on” via X-036/X-056 or run extra wire (1,5 mm²) from X-036/X-056 to fridge. OR make harness and continue to back of car to run USB chargers and LED’s.
• For additional USB and Led: connect to cable that runs from body controller to liftgate: might be detected as a “leak” if continuous current is drawn and thus trip the E-fuse.

If anybody has feedback or ideas: MUCH appreciated!!!

 

[n2mb_racing]

I read somewhere else in this forum that the new battery will only provide 6.9Ah (as opposed to 33 before), would I be able to run a 90Wx15V consumer (after DC-Dc protection) from that battery?

Yes, the 16V battery is very small, but there will be current provided to charge it. I don't know the max charging current, though. You could try pulling more current from the posts and see when the battery voltage starts running down. I found that 130A discharges the battery much faster than it can be charged (obviously) and it shut down.

The other place I was going to investigate for power was the audio amp power wire. It is in the trunk, on the passenger side. Supposedly a large diameter power wire and could be good for 960W, if we believe the audio amp spec.

 

[Kurtbe]

Yes, the 16V battery is very small, but there will be current provided to charge it. I don't know the max charging current, though. You could try pulling more current from the posts and see when the battery voltage starts running down. I found that 130A discharges the battery much faster than it can be charged (obviously) and it shut down.

The other place I was going to investigate for power was the audio amp power wire. It is in the trunk, on the passenger side. Supposedly a large diameter power wire and could be good for 960W, if we believe the audio amp spec.

I have my eye on the External Amp too (see above). Do you know if it is always powered, or only provides power when the car is on?

Thanks for letting me know that 130A will shut down the battery. I do wonder however what the maximum Amps would be to prevent it from shutting down. (It should be well over 60Amps, because that is what the 960W amp will draw.

 

[n2mb_racing]

I have my eye on the External Amp too (see above). Do you know if it is always powered, or only provides power when the car is on?

Thanks for letting me know that 130A will shut down the battery. I do wonder however what the maximum Amps would be to prevent it from shutting down. (It should be well over 60Amps, because that is what the 960W amp will draw.

It might be quite a bit lower. The 16v battery doesn't power things directly. I'd assume it gets a fixed charging current. So you'd have to experiment a bit and watch a see how much load depletes the battery faster than it charges. I'd guess no more than 10-15a, since it's a 6.9ah battery. There's no reason to fast charge it.

The other circuits will get power from the DC DC converter, but I think most of them will need the car on to be active. Maybe sentry mode would do it, but that might change in the future as they've said they want to reduce sentry mode power consumption.

 

[vcor]

There is a strong rumor (maybe a fact from Tesla) that one of the next updates will have dramatically lower vampire drain when Sentry mode is on. I suspect that means more things will be turned off in sentry mode. Since every power bus is software-controlled, it would seem easy for Tesla to turn off more items. The downside is if you are relying on always-on power today, it might not be there tomorrow.