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I have a fuse box that is tapped directly into the li-ion battery. "Tapped" is a strong word. I have a 16G wire that I stripped approximately 4" and wrapped it around the post many times, then forced the cap back on. I heard others (maybe upthread?) who drilled into that post. This post is definitely always on. As far as amperage, I don't know. Since it is directly off the battery, I can't imagine you will find more than this elsewhere.
 
I have a fuse box that is tapped directly into the li-ion battery. "Tapped" is a strong word. I have a 16G wire that I stripped approximately 4" and wrapped it around the post many times, then forced the cap back on. I heard others (maybe upthread?) who drilled into that post. This post is definitely always on. As far as amperage, I don't know. Since it is directly off the battery, I can't imagine you will find more than this elsewhere.
Direct to the DC DC converter would allow more power, but I don't know where to get it. The DC DC is not directly connected to the battery.
 
The battery is monitored, and if low, the DC-DC charger will be turned on to charge the battery (and provide power to other items you may have connected). As this is all driven by software, if it sees the need to charge the 16v battery more frequently than it expects, due to a significant external load, it might identify the 16v battery as starting to fail and flag an unnecessary service warning that can likely be ignored.
 
The battery is monitored, and if low, the DC-DC charger will be turned on to charge the battery (and provide power to other items you may have connected). As this is all driven by software, if it sees the need to charge the 16v battery more frequently than it expects, due to a significant external load, it might identify the 16v battery as starting to fail and flag an unnecessary service warning that can likely be ignored.
I wonder how much charging current they provide. I can't imagine much reason for them to charge the 16v battery very quickly. So I'd guess 7A to 14A.