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100% to 95% in 14 hours parked model S 85D

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I only charge to 100% once or twice a year. I just did it and was pleased with the predicted range of 255 miles for my 2016 model S 85D.
However, without going anywhere I checked it 14 hours later and was down to 95%. I then drove half a mile and it was down to 93%.
Is this just a calibration issue and should I ask Tesla to take a look? It is within the 8 year battery warranty, though I doubt that is relevant.
 
Perfectly normally, this is due to battery temperature and BMS calibration. A recent firmware update seems to show these changes more than in the past.

As far as Talking with Tesla, as long as the battery is 70% or more there is nothing to talk about.
 
Perfectly normally, this is due to battery temperature and BMS calibration.
I think that’s very unlikely.

A more likely cause: many 85kwh batteries now run the coolant pump continuously when charged over ~80%.

OP, can you hear a faint humming noise from the front passenger side of the car after it’s been sitting for a while at a higher state of charge?
 
I think that’s very unlikely.

Changes in battery temperature most definately impact the SOC. Also, there have been numerous posts of late in which, after charging has completed, the SOC changes more than a little bit, up or down. This seems to be related to a recent firmware update. I have personally seen this.

But of course, it could be running the cooling system as well. ;)
 
After 24 hours it is now down to 90% having done no further driving (so 0.6m in total). I can't hear noises now, not sure before. I have noticed in the past that even if driving straight away, the top % of charge quickly vanishes. This may be the first time I charged it right up and then did almost nothing with the car.
 
After 24 hours it is now down to 90% having done no further driving (so 0.6m in total). I can't hear noises now, not sure before. I have noticed in the past that even if driving straight away, the top % of charge quickly vanishes. This may be the first time I charged it right up and then did almost nothing with the car.
Basic questions: is "Sentry" on as this will draw 5-6 kWh / day? Also, if "Cabin Overheat Protection" is on and if it ran, that is another 5 kWh or so?
 
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Changes in battery temperature most definately impact the SOC.
Lithium batteries is very, very temperature stable for cell voltage, at no load (OCV or low load).
(I performed a test in extreme cold with panasonic NCA cells: Cell voltage in -25C)

The BMS measures the OCV and this is the way the BMS finds the true SOC.

Any time your car displays a lower SOC due to a cold battery the BMS is able to measure the real SOC.
That is, if you have 70% SOC and leave the car in very cold winter the BMS will know the ”real” SOC from measuring the OCV which will say 70% even if the batteries is cold soaked to -15C.
But to compensate for the losses for heating the battery etc, the car will show you a lower SOC than the real SOC.

I have seen this hundreds of times, using Scan My Tesla and a tablet in front of the steering wheel showing all BMS-data.
This can since a time also be seen in the Tesla app and for example teslafi, both the ”displayed ”cold” SOC and the real SOC can be seen.

Today my cell temp is 18C and there is no reduced display of the SOC.

We probably would need <15C to see 1% reduced SOC from the cell temp.

I have data from the car beeing out in a very cold environment over one week and when the cell temp was -15C, the displayed SOC was 4-5% lower than the ”real SOC” red from the BMS.

A temp decrease after driving or charging do not change the displayed SOC unless the cell temp goes quite low.

For the 5% loss, it probably is the cooling circuit and also the cell balancing. Tesla burns of the high cells, which after a complete balancing ends up in a lower SOC than after the charging.
Also, there have been numerous posts of late in which, after charging has completed, the SOC changes more than a little bit, up or down.

SOC change after a charge mostly comes from that when the BMS has for example a overestimation of the battery capacity, the calculated value ”to charge complete” is to much energy.
When charging or driving no good readings of the true SOC can take place, so the car estimates the energy needed to hit the set SOC number.
A overestimated capacity will mean to much energy is added, and after the charge is finished the BMS can measure the cell voltage and then the SOC is updated. In the case of overestimation the SOC will be higher than the set value.

Overestimation will also cause the SOC to seem to drop after a longer drive, when the real SOC is measured the real SOC will be lower than the calculated duribg the drive so the SOC will drop from the moment of parking to sbout 20-30 min to one-two hours.
Underedtimation will cause the opposite for charging and driving.
 
2015 P85D, 17k miles. v2022.8.10.12

My MS will lose 1-3% per day when I leave it off the charger for every test session that I've done since ownership. The most I've left the car off-charger is 5 days straight and I lost 9% during that time without ever bugging the car via app or via the fob. I've noticed that on day 4, the car is asleep, meaning when I get into the car, the driver screen boots up with the "T" logo while the main screen wakes up and is choppy for about 15-20 seconds.

I don't know why or how but it seems to be pretty consistent. I will concur with @ucmndd wherein my coolant pumps do run longer when my SoC starts creeping up there. Maybe there's software code that is more vigilant and sensitive to higher SoC in our older cars for the sake of protecting itself?

It's not a biggie to me because my car is always plugged in and the max charge limit is 50%. I will say that every time I go to work, my SoC is always between 47-49%... rarely will it ever be 50% so I'm guessing it gets to 50% then loses 2-3%, then charges up to 50%, then repeat...

 
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As pointed out, an aging 12v battery can easily cause more vampire drain. What is happening is the 12v needs to be charged more frequently to keep the voltage up, which consumes power when parked. Depending on the vehicle, there are other vampire sources. I wrote this detailed article on Vampire drain that may be helpful: Vampire Drain – TeslaTap
 
I only charge to 100% once or twice a year. I just did it and was pleased with the predicted range of 255 miles for my 2016 model S 85D.
However, without going anywhere I checked it 14 hours later and was down to 95%. I then drove half a mile and it was down to 93%.
Is this just a calibration issue and should I ask Tesla to take a look? It is within the 8 year battery warranty, though I doubt that is relevant.
I just had the same thing happen to me this weekend. I charge my 85kwh battery to 100% on my 2013 Model S and after calculating for a long time it stopped at 100% charge and 248 miles of range. I left it plugged in and went to sleep, 12 hours later it was at 95% and 235 miles of range. The overheat protection wasn't on and no 3rd party or Tesla app waking the vehicle. I normally only lose 1% while it's plugged in my garage overnight so this was shocking to me.

The reason I charged to 100% was because I've read that the BMS recalculated while the vehicle is sleeping and I just got a remanufactured battery 2 months ago since my original one died outside of warranty. I've also ran it down to 10% and let it sit overnight plugged in with a schedule charge in the morning to let it calibrate as well. Trying to hit both ends of the battery so I don't run into these issues I see where someone's car dies while the SOC is at 5%.
 
I just had the same thing happen to me this weekend. I charge my 85kwh battery to 100% on my 2013 Model S and after calculating for a long time it stopped at 100% charge and 248 miles of range. I left it plugged in and went to sleep, 12 hours later it was at 95% and 235 miles of range. The overheat protection wasn't on and no 3rd party or Tesla app waking the vehicle. I normally only lose 1% while it's plugged in my garage overnight so this was shocking to me.

The reason I charged to 100% was because I've read that the BMS recalculated while the vehicle is sleeping and I just got a remanufactured battery 2 months ago since my original one died outside of warranty. I've also ran it down to 10% and let it sit overnight plugged in with a schedule charge in the morning to let it calibrate as well. Trying to hit both ends of the battery so I don't run into these issues I see where someone's car dies while the SOC is at 5%.
What do you normally charge to? Most older 85s run the cooling pumps continuously when charged above ~80% as some sort of undocumented fire prevention / thermal management feature.
 
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What do you normally charge to? Most older 85s run the cooling pumps continuously when charged above ~80% as some sort of undocumented fire prevention / thermal management feature.
I normally set my car to change to 65% at 3am so it's warm when I leave for work at 5am. My commute uses between 15-20% depending on weather and after work errands. So it spends most of the time around the recommended 50% from 4pm until 3am. I plug in every afternoon when I get home, even if I plan to leave an hour later just so there is less draw on the battery.