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I leave my steering on Sport. Comfort is way too light for me, personally.

If you trust them enough to have access to you current car as well, that would work. You'd also have to forward emails to them, etc.

Mainly because of things that were said about trackability and competing with M3s. The stock brakes are pretty awful for a 4000 lb. car if you're tracking it. There were also difference in the images composited by the configurator. I was 95% sure they weren't the same parts *very* soon after...

I was pretty sure from the start that the brakes were different. Tesla never said otherwise.

My low profile jack fits under the car with pucks in and no additional lifting. Look for something with < 3.5" height to the end of the lift arm and it should fit without needing to ramp the car at all first.

They could sue, sure. You can sue for anything. They would lose, however, since rear-ending someone is almost universally the person behind's fault. If you couldn't stop before hitting them, you were too close. My car has also never phantom braked, in 3500 miles. It does brake hard on one...

I got center caps in mine by just applying pressure and flexing the tabs in with the back side of a spudge tool. They certainly could stand to fit better.

I'm not gonna say you're smoking crack, but people that smoke crack are the only people that are going to agree with your claim. If you think I'm wrong, contact a lawyer. Try not to take it too harshly when they laugh at you. If they don't laugh, and say they'll take your case, I'm sorry in...

Legally, they don't owe us a damn thing, and that suit would be laughed out of court, assuming you could find someone to even file it. I'm still going to take my refund though, assuming they follow through.

There's no way that happens. You'll get to choose one or the other, like the rest of us.

Me too, but I don't own an iPhone and never have. =p

But they "paid" for the PUP, which they don't have, by the same metric. If they're going to do refunds, both + and - deserve the same treatment.

Sure, you could keep the car for an excessively long time, but you're still never going to break even unless you're doing something like I mentioned before. Let's say I use 5,000 miles of supercharging a year (way more than I'll ever actually use). That means I'll "break even" in 13 years. If...

Unless you are both traveling salesmen, there is zero chance that unlimited supercharging is worth that much. On a P3D+ with summer tires, $5,000 is right around 65,000 miles of supercharging in California. It's over 100k where I live. The only cases where it's worth that much money is if you...

People who ordered - paid the same price as people now getting the BBK/20s/spoiler/etc. Everyone that purchased a P3D of any flavor before this change should be offered the same lifetime SC or $5,000 option. (And the $5,000 is better for like 99% of people).

Now I'm happy. Hopefully others will be too.

I like how he keeps using that as if it's even remotely in the same league. Free SC is worth like... maybe $1,000 over the entire life of the car, unless you're a travelling salesman, compared to $5,000 right now. I would "sell" my lifetime free supercharging back to Tesla for $5,000 without...

Refuse delivery and make them get you a "new" P3D+. No matter what they tell you, you can't guarantee getting track mode, or anything else in the future. Secure what you need now, before you pay.

Wonder if they'll mail me a check for $5000 since I apparently overpaid. =\

They were thinking that it's a street car. If you intend to track it, you'll need to upgrade. There's nothing wrong with the brakes for normal driving.

They said that, but they were wrong. If you paid for it, they'll upgrade you at their cost since they sold you a feature that needs upgrades to work. If you didn't pay for it, they owe you nothing, and they can charge whatever they feel is an acceptable market price.

I went with: P3R4MNC

"Fault" would imply that it matters. It doesn't. They will charge what they want to charge and you'll have no recourse.

I don't have FSD. I didn't buy it because it's currently vaporware. I'm specifically talking to the people that think they will be able to pay $4k for it in the future once it does exist, if Tesla decides it's a $10k feature. There is no way in hell they would honor the $4k price in that...

Gloss Black. They were the only ones in stock at the time, but probably what I would have gotten anyway, I used to have black winter wheels on my Evo too.

I ordered on the 12th and mine were delivered on the 20th. I'm assuming you picked something that was out of stock?

They wouldn't be doing that, since the contract doesn't even mention FSD at all if you didn't buy it. A solid piece of life advice that applies quite well here: Get it in writing.

$2600 isn't awful for the wheels, especially from OEM. $2000 is slightly steep for the tires, but 20" snows are damn expensive. I went with 18s for that reason. It's hard to find those particular tires in 235/35, but one place I found them in Canada they are ~$455 USD each.

They absolutely can. Nowhere in your *actual* purchase documentation do they offer the feature in the future for $4k. They have, traditionally, honored the prices people were given at the time of purchase, but only out of goodwill. If the price turns out to be more like $10k, they're going to...

I put my Tsportline 18s on tonight, fitment was fine, clearance around the calipers is definitely tight, but we don't get a ton of snow here so I'm not too worried about packing/freezing. They certainly felt lighter than stock moving them across the garage, hah.

Try to stop for the puppy, accelerate if about to be rammed, would be my guess. That's what I would train it to do at any rate. But it's not like you program these scenarios directly anyway. The car will do whatever it thinks is the safest option.

I never had my Nexus 6P fail to unlock (well, as long as its battery didn't die...), and for the last 2 days I'm still at 100% with my Pixel 3 as well. FWIW, the Pixel 3 does a better job of connecting to the audio system for media/phone calls as well, compared to my 6P.

Just re-enable and scroll the wheel a couple times. It's like 2% more annoying than having resume. You'll get used to it, I'm sure.

That's what happens when you pre-pay for something that doesn't exist and has no ETA.

Same for me. Account shows pay per use, car has never charged me.

I went with Tsportline 18s. The only place the clearance is super tight is the top edge of the rear caliper, and it still has at least 1/4". We don't get a ton of snow here usually, so that should be fine for me. If you live somewhere with a ton of snow all the time you might want to opt for...

I rarely wash my car outside of winter, and I don't give a **** what the paint looks like. Both would be a complete waste of money for me.

I literally just ordered these for my MSM P3D+ like 5 minutes ago. Looks good. =D

Do you like the CF wheel? I have a CF dash panel coming because I hate the wood, but the wheel seemed unnecessary.

I don't know about you, but I ride inside the cabin when I drive.

It does what it says it will do. How that's accomplished under the hood is barely relevant. It doesn't matter if drive units are binned, or different, or identical, or anything else. It's advertised as doing 0-60 in 3.5 seconds, and it does. Who honestly cares if it's just a simple software...

It does, just not for the range display. The GPS/route planning knows what range you actually see, as far as I can tell. It's pretty accurate with its predictions.

Check your tire pressures. My car was delivered Sep. 11th, and it is significantly cooler where I am now (15-20 deg.) I was at 39 PSI cold. Bumping it back to 43 cold has lowered my Wh/mile by ~20 at highway speeds.

This lines up with my experience as well. My "lifetime" counter is almost dead-on 300 Wh/mile.

I don't carry any keys. The car can open my garage door, and the door inside my garage isn't locked.

Even outside of the pothole/road quality concerns, 18" winter tires are just going to be a lot cheaper.

Yes, the app should have the underline as well. Edit: Sorry about the size, 4k laptop sceen. >_<

So I've paid attention to the volume thing more over the last couple days, and I seem to have figured how to make it work, at least. You have to open the door, wait for the music to resume playing (if you're in a place with a bad connection or something), then close the door without pressing...

Can you post some pictures (close ups) of the wheels on a P3D+? I'm curious how much actual clearance there is between the 18s and the calipers, particularly in the rear.

I have a P3D+, but yeah, somewhere around 260 miles. (I drove ~400 miles in the rain which pushed the average up a tad. I'm usually around 285-288 at highway cruise.)