Based on what Mark did and other pieces of information I could find on this forum, I decided to clean my PEM. Enjoy and use at own risk.
I would rate this difficulty: 5/10. It's just following a procedure and making sure you don't drop any nuts
Mod Note: One of our other members posted a YouTube video on the process, which is a good compliment to this procedure. See Roadster Rear Blower Maintenance - Page 7
- Open your doors and windows. After you shut down the systems, none of them function.. I had to open the door via the bottom
- Enter the "Diagnostics menu", go to "Controls" and select "Inhabite APS". Confirm with YES. You should get the message "APS: APS power inhibited".
- Disconnect the APS 12V connector from PEM. This is the black connector in the picture below.
- Remove 4 screws securing the access panel to PEM. These are Torx TT20.
- Remove panel and lift up the safety label. You might want to take a picture here for later reference.
- Check for voltage between the "B+" and "B-" labelled cables using a multimeter. I can't stress enough how important this step is. Residual voltage of 1 or 2V is to be expected. In doubt, do not proceed!
- Remove the EV inlet pilot connector (purple cable with white connector, most left in picture above).
- Remove nuts and washers from "B+" (13mm) and "B-" (10mm).
- Remove nuts and washers from "B+ GND" (10mm) and "B- GND" (10mm).
- Remove black plastic insulators from "B+" and "B-" cables.
- Loosen cable gland nut and remove rubber grommet from the 2 upper cables.
- Withdraw the 2 upper power cables.
- Collect the Toroid choke and put aside. Don't forget this when you put everything back together!
- Remove nuts and washers from the 3 charging cables (Black and Red are 13mm, Green is 10mm). You might want a picture of this too for when you put it back together.
- Loosen cable gland nut and remove rubber grommet from the last cable.
- Release the cable from PEM.
- Remove the bolt securing the coolant tank (Phillips screwdriver).
- Disconnect the ground strap from body, 10mm nut located just under the coolant tank.
- Remove 4 screws securing the trunk access panel to PEM (Phillips screwdriver), then remove the panel.
- Remove 4 screws securing the warning panel, then remove the panel. The screws stay in the panel.
- Remove 2 nuts securing the cable clamp (7mm). In the middle of next picture:
- Remove the front of the cable clamp and put 1 of the nuts from previous step back to secure the back of the clamp.
- Remove 3 cable terminal screws and washers (6mm Allen key) as seen in following picture. Note the cable colors, mine were pink-black-blue. Then slide the cables out and pay attention to the shape of the rubbers.
- Remove 3 bolts on both sides, securing the PEM to the body (8mm).
- Now you can position something between the PEM and rear bulkhead to prevent paint damage. We were careful enough not to touch anything, but better be safe than sorry.
- Remove the bolts securing the RH side of PEM to body, then the bolt securing LH side. Both are 13mm.
- Lift the RH side of the PEM and support on a block of about 7cm high.
- Working through the trunk and from RH side of PEM, remove the 4 connectors from under the PEM. Note that the first 2 connectors (from left to right) have a lip that you need to lift before you can remove them, and the last connectors have the same mechanisme as the APS connector from step 3.
This is how they look like installed:
For reference, this is how they look like cleaned up:
- Lower the RH side of the PEM, then lift the LH side of the PEM. Support again on a block of about 7cm.
- Pull the clip, located at the rear left corner of the PEM, and simultaneously slide the PEM cooling duct intake inboard to release the connecting tabs. Once the PEM is out, have a good look at how this works as you'll need that info for reassembling.
- Now lift the PEM out and start cleaning. I had the best success with an air gun and some 45 minutes of hard labor. Then another hour to clean the motor and bay. I also opened the 2 screws on top of the motor and sucked as much dust and leaves out as possible.
This was the result:
I would rate this difficulty: 5/10. It's just following a procedure and making sure you don't drop any nuts
Mod Note: One of our other members posted a YouTube video on the process, which is a good compliment to this procedure. See Roadster Rear Blower Maintenance - Page 7
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