So, I *finally* got around to finishing my install of my dash cam on my P85D. At delivery, before driving off from the service center, I stuck the front cam up on the windshield and have been running with the front cam using the 12V power outlet since then........ that was in December. lol.
Went ahead and ran the wires for the power and rear cam, and took some pics along the way. Figured I would share. I know there are other dash cam install threads, but several have requested I make a post when I do my P85D, so, here it is. (Rep?! lol)
This isn't really a step by step how-to, and I'm not a professional dash cam installer. This is the third one I've installed on a Model S, however, so learned a few things that others may find helpful.
---
So, first, as mentioned, I had already stuck the front cam to the windshield. Now I just need to do the actual install and wire routing.
Let's start in the back. I popped the center plastic trim piece around the top of hatch with a plastic pry tool. It's held in by those annoying automotive plastic snap-ins. It is likely one or more will break, so, have some extras.
And the piece to the right (passenger side)...
So behind the top piece looks like this:
Next, I popped out the wire harness boot that attaches the car to the hatch. Not the one for the power lift gate (should be obvious).
Then I removed two panels from the passenger side C-pillar. One screw under the black plastic one held it in place, the headliner-covered piece is snap in.
Then pop out the other side of the boot. Should be able to fish something through to the outside from above the headliner (in this case a finger...)
Now back to the front. Since I have an EZpass on my windshield I'm not super concerned about the wires here. The EZpass will cover them from view mostly.
Tucked both wires across the front of the headliner with the plastic pry tool over to the passenger side A-pillar...
When I got here, I continued towards the back with the rear cam wire.
Tucking along the way to the B-pillar. The trim here is pretty tight.
I tucked the power wire in the opposite direction towards the front door trim.
Tucked the rear cam wire behind panel...
And presto, arrived at the back where I took the cover off of the C-pillar.
Pretty easy to fish the wire up to the boot hole without any tools.
Now, this is the trick I used for getting the wire through the cramped boot. The connector is a pain to push through. It just takes forever and is frustrating (did this with my P85). I thought of this method pictured below when I did my fiance's P85. Basically just fed a loop through the boot, then pulled the end that went to the connector through from the far end, pushing the connector through the rubber as I pulled to make sure not to strain it too much or break the boot.
Not long after I have the connector through!
Now here is where people are going to stone me. I took a rapid/step drill bit and drilled a hole in the hatch metal near one of the trim mounting holes large enough for the connector.
Let me explain. The wiring that runs through that boot doesn't emerge until it gets to the other end of the hatchback... which is behind the large piece of trim on that end. Drilling the hole is MUCH simpler than fighting with trying to get that piece off and on without breaking things.
Not too hard to fish the cam wire up into the hatch and to this hole. I used a piece of solid copper wire to help with this part.
(The black silicon spot you see is from a false start on my drill attempt. Sealed it up.)
Installed a rubber grommet piece in the hole, then covered in silicon sealant for an added bonus.
Have a bunch of excess rear cam wire now... and these little spots appear to be unused. Stuffed most of it here then zip tied it in a bundle (not to the holes, those are for the trim) (not shown, forgot to take pic).
Re-installed the right trim piece, then the center piece. I marked the center of the hatch with a piece of tape before putting the center piece back.
Wire is through and ready to go. Little long still.
Mounted rear cam with lens in the center. Tucked the remaining wire under the trim piece. Made sure the trim pieces were secure. (I only broke one snap in thing this time... had an extra, though)
Vacuum drill shavings!
Presto, rear cam is there. And in this position it is completely out of sight of the driver.
Now back to the front for power. I didn't take many pics here, but basically I just fished the power wire and fuse (cut the 12V male end off) through the door seal in the largest part. The door seal is pretty huge there and is perfect for this.
I removed one of the bolts holding the frunk air piston and added a ring connector on the ground wire.
Mounted the cable with the hooks included with the cam in multiple places along the way.
Unfortunately the neat little fuse tap devices do not fit in the fuse box on the Model S with the cover on. I tried multiple brands with no luck. So, I opted for an old fashion fuse tap... you know, wrap the wire under the fuse and stick it back in...
I'm not really proud of this solution, but I couldn't come up with a better one. I don't want to add a tap to any wiring inside the car. I taped the wire to the red plastic near the fuse. Cover closes fine with the thin wire there.
I kept the inline fuse for protection of the cam power wire.
I didn't bother using power magic type device since the cam is very unlikely to have any draw capable of killing the Model S 12V battery since the DC-DC will always keep it charged. If the DC-DC fails the normal car idle draw will kill it in no time anyway.
And after some aligning of the rear cam using the live WiFi view on my phone... success!
Hopefully someone finds this useful.
On a side note, this is the 6th Blackvue dual channel cam I've installed (P85, P85, P85D, Chevy Volt, Chevy Volt, Prius C)... and I really like the cams. Decent quality, haven't had any reliability issues. Bunch of features. The ability to pull video recordings over WiFi is the best thing ever.
-wk
Went ahead and ran the wires for the power and rear cam, and took some pics along the way. Figured I would share. I know there are other dash cam install threads, but several have requested I make a post when I do my P85D, so, here it is. (Rep?! lol)
This isn't really a step by step how-to, and I'm not a professional dash cam installer. This is the third one I've installed on a Model S, however, so learned a few things that others may find helpful.
---
So, first, as mentioned, I had already stuck the front cam to the windshield. Now I just need to do the actual install and wire routing.
Let's start in the back. I popped the center plastic trim piece around the top of hatch with a plastic pry tool. It's held in by those annoying automotive plastic snap-ins. It is likely one or more will break, so, have some extras.
And the piece to the right (passenger side)...
So behind the top piece looks like this:
Next, I popped out the wire harness boot that attaches the car to the hatch. Not the one for the power lift gate (should be obvious).
Then I removed two panels from the passenger side C-pillar. One screw under the black plastic one held it in place, the headliner-covered piece is snap in.
Then pop out the other side of the boot. Should be able to fish something through to the outside from above the headliner (in this case a finger...)
Now back to the front. Since I have an EZpass on my windshield I'm not super concerned about the wires here. The EZpass will cover them from view mostly.
Tucked both wires across the front of the headliner with the plastic pry tool over to the passenger side A-pillar...
When I got here, I continued towards the back with the rear cam wire.
Tucking along the way to the B-pillar. The trim here is pretty tight.
I tucked the power wire in the opposite direction towards the front door trim.
Tucked the rear cam wire behind panel...
And presto, arrived at the back where I took the cover off of the C-pillar.
Pretty easy to fish the wire up to the boot hole without any tools.
Now, this is the trick I used for getting the wire through the cramped boot. The connector is a pain to push through. It just takes forever and is frustrating (did this with my P85). I thought of this method pictured below when I did my fiance's P85. Basically just fed a loop through the boot, then pulled the end that went to the connector through from the far end, pushing the connector through the rubber as I pulled to make sure not to strain it too much or break the boot.
Not long after I have the connector through!
Now here is where people are going to stone me. I took a rapid/step drill bit and drilled a hole in the hatch metal near one of the trim mounting holes large enough for the connector.
Let me explain. The wiring that runs through that boot doesn't emerge until it gets to the other end of the hatchback... which is behind the large piece of trim on that end. Drilling the hole is MUCH simpler than fighting with trying to get that piece off and on without breaking things.
Not too hard to fish the cam wire up into the hatch and to this hole. I used a piece of solid copper wire to help with this part.
(The black silicon spot you see is from a false start on my drill attempt. Sealed it up.)
Installed a rubber grommet piece in the hole, then covered in silicon sealant for an added bonus.
Have a bunch of excess rear cam wire now... and these little spots appear to be unused. Stuffed most of it here then zip tied it in a bundle (not to the holes, those are for the trim) (not shown, forgot to take pic).
Re-installed the right trim piece, then the center piece. I marked the center of the hatch with a piece of tape before putting the center piece back.
Wire is through and ready to go. Little long still.
Mounted rear cam with lens in the center. Tucked the remaining wire under the trim piece. Made sure the trim pieces were secure. (I only broke one snap in thing this time... had an extra, though)
Vacuum drill shavings!
Presto, rear cam is there. And in this position it is completely out of sight of the driver.
Now back to the front for power. I didn't take many pics here, but basically I just fished the power wire and fuse (cut the 12V male end off) through the door seal in the largest part. The door seal is pretty huge there and is perfect for this.
I removed one of the bolts holding the frunk air piston and added a ring connector on the ground wire.
Mounted the cable with the hooks included with the cam in multiple places along the way.
Unfortunately the neat little fuse tap devices do not fit in the fuse box on the Model S with the cover on. I tried multiple brands with no luck. So, I opted for an old fashion fuse tap... you know, wrap the wire under the fuse and stick it back in...
I'm not really proud of this solution, but I couldn't come up with a better one. I don't want to add a tap to any wiring inside the car. I taped the wire to the red plastic near the fuse. Cover closes fine with the thin wire there.
I kept the inline fuse for protection of the cam power wire.
I didn't bother using power magic type device since the cam is very unlikely to have any draw capable of killing the Model S 12V battery since the DC-DC will always keep it charged. If the DC-DC fails the normal car idle draw will kill it in no time anyway.
And after some aligning of the rear cam using the live WiFi view on my phone... success!
Hopefully someone finds this useful.
On a side note, this is the 6th Blackvue dual channel cam I've installed (P85, P85, P85D, Chevy Volt, Chevy Volt, Prius C)... and I really like the cams. Decent quality, haven't had any reliability issues. Bunch of features. The ability to pull video recordings over WiFi is the best thing ever.
-wk