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@Andyw2100 I vaguely recall someone posting in another thread that a constant 12v power supply is again available under the front microphone cover in P85D. Of course, I'm rather skeptical since I don't see a reason why Tesla would make power available again in that location. Nevertheless, you might want to check anyway because it would be far easier than tapping into the fuse box for power. I have not looked for the wiring in my car myself since I would have no idea what to look for anyway.

Yes, I'm pretty sure that's what andrewket was talking about in his posts, including this one:

The easiest place to access 12v for cars below vin ~15k and then again starting around 55k is behind the plastic mesh where the microphone for the Bluetooth resides. Search here on the forums, it's well documented. I used this source for a blackvue camera in my 100xx and 635xx VIN model S.

That's the location I've been referring to as well. My questions have just been about the specifics of connecting there.
 
That's the location I've been referring to as well. My questions have just been about the specifics of connecting there.

Sorry I misunderstood your intent. It's good to hear that power is again available in the front microphone area. I have yet to install the dash cam which I recently purchased with the group buy. Best of luck with your installation. Since I'm not particularly handy with all this electrical stuff, I'm considering having it professionally installed as well.
 
Sorry I misunderstood your intent. It's good to hear that power is again available in the front microphone area. I have yet to install the dash cam which I recently purchased with the group buy. Best of luck with your installation. Since I'm not particularly handy with all this electrical stuff, I'm considering having it professionally installed as well.

No problem! I appreciate your trying to help!
 
"Am I correct that if my installer were to use the JPP method, he would need only the part I linked to above, and would somehow need to add a fuse? Or he could just cut the power cord that came with the unit at the 12V adapter, keeping the fuse inline, and use the original power cable? Is this correct? This actually sounds simpler, doesn't require that I purchase any additional parts, and leaves the connector free.

Thanks!"

I amputated the cigarette lighter plug from the power cable but left the in-line fuse holder (...nice of Blackvue to do that). I fished a pull device (?maybe a big Zip Tie) from the headliner cavity where the mikes are, forward under the headliner, to exit just to the right of the rear view mirror mount cover at the windshield. I did not pop off or remove the cover from the mirror. Once I adjusted the length of the exposed power cable at the front camera, I went back to the amputated end, stripped and tinned the red & black wires. I popped open the spare connector in the headliner, and laid the tinned leads onto the existing crimped pins for 12v and ground, then snapped the connector shut. It leaves the connector open for future use. I have a fused power cable (safe). I coiled up the excess power cable and tucked it up in the headliner. Snapped the mike grille back into place. Done & dusted.
 


I amputated the cigarette lighter plug from the power cable but left the in-line fuse holder (...nice of Blackvue to do that). I fished a pull device (?maybe a big Zip Tie) from the headliner cavity where the mikes are, forward under the headliner, to exit just to the right of the rear view mirror mount cover at the windshield. I did not pop off or remove the cover from the mirror. Once I adjusted the length of the exposed power cable at the front camera, I went back to the amputated end, stripped and tinned the red & black wires. I popped open the spare connector in the headliner, and laid the tinned leads onto the existing crimped pins for 12v and ground, then snapped the connector shut. It leaves the connector open for future use. I have a fused power cable (safe). I coiled up the excess power cable and tucked it up in the headliner. Snapped the mike grille back into place. Done & dusted.

Thanks.

I will be printing out the above and bringing it with me! This sounds like the way to go.

I appreciate the help!
 
Two questions:

1. Are you able to rotate the front facing camera so that passengers can be recorded, say for instance, during insane launches?

2. Is the Power Magic Pro necessary, since the MS battery is constantly charging the 12 v?

TIA.
 
Two questions:

1. Are you able to rotate the front facing camera so that passengers can be recorded, say for instance, during insane launches?

2. Is the Power Magic Pro necessary, since the MS battery is constantly charging the 12 v?

TIA.

You could rotate the front camera in its holder, but if you position it in what I think is the best location, behind the rear view mirror, where it won't be visible to the driver at all, it won't have any view of the cabin when it is turned around.

Everyone says you do not need the power magic pro. I installed my unit without using it.
 
You could rotate the front camera in its holder, but if you position it in what I think is the best location, behind the rear view mirror, where it won't be visible to the driver at all, it won't have any view of the cabin when it is turned around.

Everyone says you do not need the power magic pro. I installed my unit without using it.

What do you think about mounting the front camera up as high on the windshield as possible, just to the right of the rearview mirror?
 
What do you think about mounting the front camera up as high on the windshield as possible, just to the right of the rearview mirror?

That could work... In fact, if I had to do a 2nd install, I would do exactly that. Behind the mirror is perfect in the sense that you don't see it... It's also annoying because you don't see it! Hard to check if GPS is good... hard to see if event was triggered (and the chirp, if enabled, is really annoying...), etc.
 
What do you think about mounting the front camera up as high on the windshield as possible, just to the right of the rearview mirror?

That could work... In fact, if I had to do a 2nd install, I would do exactly that. Behind the mirror is perfect in the sense that you don't see it... It's also annoying because you don't see it! Hard to check if GPS is good... hard to see if event was triggered (and the chirp, if enabled, is really annoying...), etc.

I definitely did not want to see the camera, and also wanted it to be as unnoticeable from outside the car as possible, so I think for those purposes, where I installed it is perfect. If you have other goals, other installation locations would probably be fine.
 
That could work... In fact, if I had to do a 2nd install, I would do exactly that. Behind the mirror is perfect in the sense that you don't see it... It's also annoying because you don't see it! Hard to check if GPS is good... hard to see if event was triggered (and the chirp, if enabled, is really annoying...), etc.

I agree, it is a trade off b/w having it in the most hidden location and accessibility. I'm a bit more comfortable now not having to see the LED to know that it is on/working and can find the reformat/wifi button by touch quickly. But having it visible to know at a glance that it is functioning would have been nice too. All in all, I prefer the directly in front of the rear-view mirror location.
 
I'm starting this install using Teslarati's instructions, and when I went to scope out my rear-view mirror housing I noticed it was already cracked apart (as in the two halves aren't joined) and there's scrape marks as if someone tried to go into it. I've never had a need to go up there (which is why I'm now noticing this 2.5 years after delivery), is there any reason the Service Center may have needed to? It is one of the earlier cars so I guess it could've just been a result of the new assembly process, but still seems odd.

I guess it'll make that part of the install easier anyway
 
I'm starting this install using Teslarati's instructions, and when I went to scope out my rear-view mirror housing I noticed it was already cracked apart (as in the two halves aren't joined) and there's scrape marks as if someone tried to go into it. I've never had a need to go up there (which is why I'm now noticing this 2.5 years after delivery), is there any reason the Service Center may have needed to? It is one of the earlier cars so I guess it could've just been a result of the new assembly process, but still seems odd.

I guess it'll make that part of the install easier anyway

I have the camera and was going to install using Teslarati's instructions too. Haven't had the time so far but let me know how it works out for you.
Thanks
 
I have the camera and was going to install using Teslarati's instructions too. Haven't had the time so far but let me know how it works out for you.
Thanks

Well, offhand, if you have power up in the microphone part, then skip pulling the trim from the driver's footwell. No need and you avoid potentially breaking a clip. I'm at the part now where I'm figuring out how to wire it to that connector up there.

Also, take your time pulling everywhere. The Teslarati instructions talk about how firm clips are yadda yadda, and maybe they have a different build than I do, but things are fragile (in some way) all over. For example the clips sometimes stayed in the car and came off of the trim piece. Getting them out of the car usually lead to breakage.

I finished my install yesterday. I did not drill the hole in the rear hatch and just "jumped" the wire. It's not 100% hidden and laziness won out

Same, and it doesn't bother me (yet). I'll let it ride and change if need be.
 
Same, and it doesn't bother me (yet). I'll let it ride and change if need be.

I tried feeding it through that hole where the rubber boot connects. After 30 frustrating minutes I said F it. A small wire hanging out only bothers me when I open the hatch.

We need to have some settings in this thread. I turned the motion sensitivity to zero as I have so many videos of flies and random walkers.
 
Well, offhand, if you have power up in the microphone part, then skip pulling the trim from the driver's footwell. No need and you avoid potentially breaking a clip. I'm at the part now where I'm figuring out how to wire it to that connector up there.

Also, take your time pulling everywhere. The Teslarati instructions talk about how firm clips are yadda yadda, and maybe they have a different build than I do, but things are fragile (in some way) all over. For example the clips sometimes stayed in the car and came off of the trim piece. Getting them out of the car usually lead to breakage.

Is the power up in the microphone part pretty obvious? Would I know it if I saw it? Anyone have pics?
My Vin is 20xxx
 
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What should not be covered on the back of the rearview mirror (4/15 build w/autopilot)? On the driver side there is a sensor(?), probably for daytime/nighttime. On the passenger side of the back of the rearview mirror, there is some type of grate pattern. Is that decoration or something else?
 
Is the power up in the microphone part pretty obvious? Would I know it if I saw it? Anyone have pics?
My Vin is 20xxx

It is very obvious. You will know it when you see it. It is a connector, with nothing connected to it. I posted a picture here, just before completing the power connection myself. You'll need to connect the black wire to the black wire, and the red wire to the beige wire.

Blackvue 650 - Are only options for rear camera drilling hole or showing cable? - Page 2
 
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Connector pictures

p85D vin 78XXX delivered april 2015. Pics of connector.

Anyone know where I can find materials to construct a short power cord for the blackvue?

connector/fuse/blackvue power?

or other better suggestion?

thx all.

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