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another proof to never trust employees lol all u do is upload photos of ur license/registration (or title or bill of sale) in the app n u get car added later just make sure seller types ur email correct otherwise you'll be stuck with long process

Unfortunately no, 12v has nothing to do with it U could try to put the car in range mode (it won't use battery heater) n restart, that might be the only low chance possibility for temp fix U need to find which HV component is shorting to ground...

yes officially its lead-acid, ppl been using li-ion but i think software is not properly set up to handle it...

with BMS errors, contactors won't close so none of HV components will work including ur 12v support so u should probably put 12v on charger/trickle if u haven't done it yet, it will die quick

Large Drive Units are known for leaking coolant seal that destroys the inverter/stator n u get isolation errors Check ur invoice, if u got -U version, then u should have rotor coolant bypass version n those are not gonna leak U might have other issue like bad battery heater If its any other...

it would be charged to their card in the account so it'll depend on seller...

i also believe mods said at some point u can hit 'report' button n type a message for them, like 'please combine' that should get their attention faster

Most likely coolant in LDU

From my DIY view, fix it n drive it There's plenty of safeties built in the BMS to detect if that dent caused cell damage, i'm sure it didn't or you would already have errors/issues Tesla is being extra safe with 8mm Side note, unless u have LFP battery, u should not keep it at 100% if not using it

ouch... if u go with independent shop it'll be much less if u diy it with used parts off ebay, probably only few hundred :)

Nice, it was the same for me However other ppl had to clear the error so not sure what gives... Yes, Russians already thought of that haha Watch at 13:40

Nice work! Did u have to clear the errors?

I can't help u (not smart enough 😅 ) besides referring to LayZ Be patient, he'll get back to u

Yes my S I'd love to but I also want diag mode 😅 X already rooted, before they allowed it, n has big dents on battery so most likely won't pass...

Rooting way is still cheaper Plus if ur pack has deep dents Tesla will fail u

Nobody can transfer after it's in your account

I'm in a rainy pnw 😂 But I'll probably be looking at battery swap project in the future Might pick up a parts car at some point...

well we're talking about this car so how do u reconcile both of these statements lol since u didn't specify what auction.. there's been few threads where ppl bought clean title cars from auctions only to find out its deemed salvage per Teslas database... simply warning u.

yeap was just gonna say the same thing lots of shady stuff like that on auctions OP, if u bought it at auction n putting it back then its hard to recover all ur money was it diff auction? Also, clean title doesn't really mean much for Tesla, cause there's been many cases where they flagged it...

yes from my biased DIY perspective, i always suggest getting used one n selling ur modules (ppl use it for solar or EV conversions) this would give u best bang for ur buck but u do have to invest some time n labor or find a place that can swap it for u

My AP1 X once swerved away to the right from semi that passed too close to me in the passing lane and uss blinked red on the dash AP wasn't even engaged so i think they are used but maybe not in the same capacity as parking OP, as others mentioned, Tesla won't be liable even if boulder was in...

yeap, start with lifting the car n having a look under without undershield put car in tow mode so u can spin the wheels n listen

if it was a widespread issue with wheels, we would be hearing about it every day look at this from Teslas perspective, to them its a user issue, i'm sure you'd do the same if u were the manufacturer wheels bend/crack from bad roads n low tire pressures, no way to know how it happened...

head over to fb u029/u018 group lots of info there this is the common issue with aging cells u018 means one or more bricks lost more CAC then others so either need to remove 2 modules n turn it into 70kwh pack or get new one no way around this one

no, not usually lol maybe sometimes, or very rare bad 12v won't cause any noise Only concerning code is DI w039, other codes don't really point to the source of issue/noise Is there more codes in history? This might be some mechanical failure in drive unit or axles...

this is interesting when i looked at mine, it had same exact greasy spot, scared me a bit that it was coolant sipping out i guess its a good sign for me :)

you are correct tho, i checked the nav in the car n no superchargers are planned it is still including them in the app however

some ppl had success irradiating with UV light to get rid of yellow borders

This is what @Recell does n they were gonna offer conversion kits but not sure what happened to that idea... U obviously need some HV buses to complete the loop without 2 modules (either from 75 pack or DIY i guess) and per Recell some emulator board for the missing BMBs, not sure how BMS...

which filter? 2016 drive units don't have oil filters pretty sure 2017 neither... Tesla added oil filter later on but not sure when...

either u didn't ask the question correct or i misunderstood u i know its disabled right now even without checking but i plan to either root n re-enable or pass salvage inspection but SC01 still there in my account which is separate from SC flag in the car

Its ur ambient temp sensor, it clips to the plastic trim in front of coolant radiator at the bottom of the bumper

simple way would be to get one of those laser pointers and hot wire it to garage opener light n position it in a way that lets u know when u cleared the door or reached the wall, depends how u wanna set it up i was gonna do that little project for myself but never got around it. on amazon n...

Ah good to know since i've never seen old pack in person, i didn't know they cover those

You're welcome! It wasn't glue, Tesla using sonic welds (unless there's evidence that pack was opened before) I think there is portable sonic welder tool but pretty pricey Best bet like MrHyde said is to rivet it JB or similar won't make good connection, don't risk it

so does FSD work on *10.15 for u right now?

i think aluminum just captures moisture better kinda like glass in the bathroom fuse cover from factory has lots of black tarr so maybe normal yes i think its worth saving, dry n re-check all sense wires n BMBs some pitting on cells is no issue, i had it on my pack n it ran for 10k+ miles...

Precisely ! I don't 'arbiter' anything, i simply observe sold vs expired listings

members that post honest listings with correct pricing don't get hate comments everyone else deserves them lol if they wanna scam or price gouge potential uneducated buyers they can go somewhere else forum is like a family, we're here to protect and educate each other :)

nice work! most likely water got in thru fuse cover, was it rusted? ur pack was definitely on its way to f123 error if f107 didn't happen... there's a theory that moisture weakens sonic welds yes there're sense wires on both sides Tesla switched to Hybrid (with internal battery) fuse before...

i still do, according to app/account (sc01) but i haven't tested it at all

For my S it happened after 1 or 2 mo after I got it from auction, before I even finished fixing it. Initially when I added it to app (with Bill of sale) it showed warranty still existing, then later changed to expired. I haven't tried supercharging in both states but pretty sure they go...

Its just the naming they've kept for some reason but it doesn't reflect the release time MCU1 can't really handle much anymore, its already overloaded as it is, so its totally on a different version release path..

did u do anything to get this working or Tesla just didn't catch up to it yet?

lucky it didn't break.. fill the crack with one of those windshield repair kits if its software, be careful till its fixed if dead sensor (i believe its same as bumper parking ones) test it n replace it

i think only if ur using 110v, more losses with lower voltage for 240v, 32a vs 48a won't be diff besides time...

not seeing diff codes, just moving active<>inactive, which is normal depending on state of the car don't think that test will shake a sense wire unless ur a hulk maybe ;)

yes most definitely also if u notice on modules 7/10, one brick is higher the other is lower by about same amount, cause sense wires are shared, except end ones i think Edit: same with latest screenshot (this is very common with f107) once u open the pack, u can confirm all cell voltages with...

yeap, never trust the seller :) i doubt its newer and you'll verify when u open it f107 is a common error for older packs when sense fires fall off (its just a single standard wire) later they switched to ribbon cable with redundancy. good news is ur cells themselves probably fine bad news u...

Thanks for shout out, happy to help :) i can tell u for sure its NOT from 2mo sitting i (and many other ppl) bought 2 cars already from auction thats been sitting for >3mo and no HV issues will keep an eye out for ur new thread Thats unfortunate but its def not from disconnecting power/grounds...