Black306
Active Member
Switch to % and not worry about it until it gets closer to 30% degradation. I’m fact, that’s what I did; switch to % right off the lot so I don’t stress out about degradation.What would you do?
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Switch to % and not worry about it until it gets closer to 30% degradation. I’m fact, that’s what I did; switch to % right off the lot so I don’t stress out about degradation.What would you do?
What would you do?
I ordered my M3LR car exactly two years ago today and picked it up on Christmas eve (9 weeks later) 2019. When I drove off the lot, 100 soc was 315 miles. 1 yr and 10 months later 100 soc is only 274. I also paid $6K for FSD. My safety score is 98 because Tesla is unforgiving of the insane drivers here in Houston where I have no choice but to react to others stupidity. I suppose I "might" get FSD in the next couple weeks assuming the NTSB doesn't shut down the release of FSD. That being said I am beyond upset how much battery degradation it has. I've read posts on how to recover some of it and I tried it and it didn't help. I also bought acceleration boost and had been driving mostly in sport mode because why pay $2K to be able to 0-60 in 3.7 seconds and not do it? So yeah I love sport mode. Should I sue Tesla for not telling consumers if they do a lot of 0-60's and use sport mode it would result in such high battery degradation? No I'm not going to bother suing. Stupid. No...I'm done. I'm selling it and I should get somewhere near $50K for it. 2019 M3LR w/32K miles.
What would you do?
Hard driving vill still not degrade nearly as hard as leaving the car with high SOC.“Should I sue Tesla for not telling consumers if they do a lot of 0-60's and use sport mode it would result in such high battery degradation?”
Do you have proof of this?
Tim
There might be a couple of issues with that.Switch to % and not worry about it until it gets closer to 30% degradation. I’m fact, that’s what I did; switch to % right off the lot so I don’t stress out about degradation.
New question - will modifications to the car affect the screen calculation? I am running wider 20s, lowering springs, a front splitter and wheel spacers. As a result of these modifications I regularly get lower range than projected. I assume those are affecting my average consumption calculations? If so wouldn't that alter the calculation? Edit and mudflaps
Yes all fair points. That said, if I have permanently lost 22 miles of range in 10 months and 6k miles, I think it's reasonable to be upset.it doesnt sound like the "lower max range" is impacting you in the slightest. You put a bunch of stuff on your car that has the potential to impact the actual range that you could go (not the number on the screen, the actual range), because you wanted to, and it doesnt sound like its impacted you at all.
So, in effect, you are getting upset about the "number on the screen" when it isnt impacting you, and in fact you decided to put stuff on your car that would lower your range yourself... because that didnt impact your usage of the car.
Sometimes people get really tied up in that number on the screen, and forget that, unless you are driving your car that range daily, it means very little in your actual usage of the car.
This is the nature of the todays battery technology. There are different battery types, all have their ups and downs.Yes all fair points. That said, if I have permanently lost 22 miles of range in 10 months and 6k miles, I think it's reasonable to be upset.
So in other words, stress out early to maximize the life of the battery and potentially live years of worry-full ownership, or just relax and enjoy the car. I’ll just relax and enjoy the car.There might be a couple of issues with that.
When Tesla get you a new battery (if reaching below 70%), they give you a referbished bat that holds for 70%.
Then you have a standard range Tesla(if you started with a LR).
Also finding out after 6-7 years that the degradation more or less leveled out at 20%, making the LR a medium range Tesla.
The reason I wright my posts is to enlighten people about degradation and how it can be limited is due to the above points.
Anyone can ignore degradation, just follow Teslas simple rules. You willbe fine.
But that might put you in a position you dont like a few years from now, so the choise should be made early in the cars life.
Also, the research points to the fact that a lithium battery has a about proportinal degradation down to about 20% degradation, after this the degradation most likely is higher due to the lithiation.
When the 20% is reached it isnt that far to the 30% degradation level.
Dont missunderstand me. I do not say all should do everything to minimize degradation.So in other words, stress out early to maximize the life of the battery and potentially live years of worry-full ownership, or just relax and enjoy the car. I’ll just relax and enjoy the car.
Your own words “(if reaching below 70%);” emphasis on the “if.” Even at 20% degradation, I’m not going to stress. All your charts, graphs, and other data aren’t going to change my mind. But hey, preach on if it makes you feel better.
Yeah well I guess I'll start leaving the car closer to 50 since it sits most days anyway. It sucks because a 90 percent charge brings a smile to my face performance wise. I do think Tesla should be required to disclose significantly more information to consumers on issues like degradation. I was also quite disappointed to learn how quickly performance drops off after 90 percent SOC. These are not 200 airpods with lithium batteries that are disposable. These are 55k cars. More disclosure is warranted.This is the nature of the todays battery technology. There are different battery types, all have their ups and downs.
For the longelivety, Panasonic NCA is good.
The battery will probably outlive the car anyway. If thats the case, there isn’t really anything to be upset about.
[Edit]
Heres the three main battery types of today:
View attachment 722357
I’d choose the NCA again for my M3P.
With a LFP you only have space for some 70-80% of the range anyway so you’d get a Standard Range wether you want or not. Which also will degrade.
So, my solution:
-You learn
-You accept
-You adept
I see no issue here. I asked for the information and appreciate the responses. I actually hoped to avoid this and am more in the club of set it to percentage and forget it. But the app now tells me both so I had no choice but to look.Dont missunderstand me. I do not say all should do everything to minimize degradation.
I bring the facts about degradation, and then its a free choise to do whatever one like with that information. Maybe not even read about it at all.
Clerks is not okey with the degradation issue right now, and from where I’m standing you do not help much.
This thread is the: MASTER THREAD: Range Loss Over Time, What Can Be Expected, Efficiency, How to Maintain Battery Health
So my posts about what to expect and how to minimize degradation is within the topic.
These post does not make me feel better or worse(except from maybe getting Clerks feeling better, which in turn probably would feel nice )
Theres no one trying to change your mind.
But hey, feel free to complain or whatever you do if it make you feel better.
I have it at percent from day one.I see no issue here. I asked for the information and appreciate the responses. I actually hoped to avoid this and am more in the club of set it to percentage and forget it. But the app now tells me both so I had no choice but to look.
I have a new Tesla 3 SR+ ex China with the LFP battery. I am on my first 1,000 Kms. I am driving in metro Sydney.
My full battery mileage range has been at best 300Kms. I was expecting closer to 350-400 Kms.
Am I doing something wrong? Should I turn off services like Cabin Overheat protection, Sentry etc? Please advise.