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That was actually my first reaction when I saw the inverter casing but few hours later when removed inverter housing it turned out to be no harm so my first conclusion was incorrect. Not sure if that is in all cases but just sharing my own experience. Think it's important before doing the...

Yeah it was definitely some of the greasy transparent jelly that made its way out, maybe they use it as a non conductive grease to make the housing slide easily over the big O ring and also against moisture intrusion but that's just guessing

So, wanted to post some extra data points since we also placed a rotor cap delete plug last night. T19 is 2019 right? This car is high mileage btw. So before we did the operation we wanted to check for signs of coolant. Sensor: grease but no coolant Greasy inverter case, not a really...

Would be cool if you can make the issue visible on the scope

Thanks, maybe if more people can post their iso we would have more reference of what is pretty good ( >5+ MOhm?) and what is not so good (probably something 3.5-4 MOhm) Not sure why LDU is not listed in the overview but they mention it on page 19: Also found this a few minutes ago: So...

Thank you for all your valuable information, think that pulling speed sensor + orange plastic cap from stator windings to check moisture but also checking isolation resistance up front gives a good idea if it's worth doing the coolant mod yes or no. 1. Maybe I overlooked this topic but do you...

Good question, the ESP module can already see that even the stationary signal isn't what it needs to be, so for example if it expects a square wave from 0.45V and 1V but if it's measuring short to ground or 0.1V etc it will throw an error even without driving. Gap can be off if wheel bearing is...

ESP_d020_wssFRAirGap This alert indicates there was a WSS fault on the right front wheel speed sensor, which may be due to an incorrect alignment or adjustment. It may also be triggered by a bad air gap, wheel vibrations, or an incorrectly mounted WSS sensor (VDA sensor on WSS_FR). Think this...

Did you checked service mode for silent errors? Please share those in English I don't think measuring ohms can tell if an active abs sensor is broken. It sends out a low voltage Square block signal unlike a passive abs sensor. Not sure if a multimeter is fast enough to measure, best to use a...

I used a 5 amp charger some time ago but that was not sufficient to keep the screens on. You think 10 amp would be enough? Really need to check SMT again for 12V power usage...

Ongeacht of je wel of niet de keuze maakt om hem bij Tesla te laten vervangen hou ook rekening met de garantie die je krijgt op de reparatie. (Tesla=4jr, 80.000km) Bij Tesla, zorg dat ze de 'U' revisie plaatsen. Deze zou niet meer vatbaar voor de koelvloeistof lekkage. Zie Amerikaanse gedeelte...

On which software version is the car?

Try slamming your seat cushion when screen doesn't go off when you close the door

Daar is een stille recall voor geweest

Just curious but did you already inspected the old superbottle?

Can you post the invoice? My best bet would be the child lock because it's almost impossible that there are 2 identical defects on both sides but you already checked. When checking the wiring you can see left rear inner door handle X361 is connected to ground and left front door module. You...

If you have 1067361-00-C on your car this is 1st gen air suspension (EAS) 2012-2016.4 Second picture is 2nd gen air suspension (TAS)

✅ 29 juni 😜

Zo kan het ook: https://evetesla.com/store/ols/products/tesla-model-s-full-led-conversion-emulator-to-old-hid

For M3 you need to go to service mode and clear offset and offset drive test think MS is the same.

@Firehuntah

Are you referring to harness 1016009-00-E?

Can't you see which door handle version it is in service mode?

2012-2016 is a valveblock with 6 connections and a 2016+ is one with 7 connections. Seems that Arnott sells them both For Model S with EAS 2013-2016.4 there are no different variations of this component, it's just a solenoid valve block with some actuators and a build in pressure sensor...

Yes correct but this will only work with MCU1

Try removing the 2 connectors, change wheel size 19'/21' in MCU this will force deep reset and please share service mode errors after that Edit, if you have MCU2 that won't work...You could try 12V and fireman's loop

Sept 2019, got them replaced all 4 last year under the 4y warranty

For me the chrome was coming loose from the handle preventing it to go flush with the car

Remove plastic inner frunk covers and then you will see the steering rack D008 is talking about shutdown due to high current so guess that error will be gone when those 2 connectors are removed. Not sure if that can trigger f071 so let us know which faults remains

Contactors will not engage so 12V isn't being supported at this moment and therefore you can't go into D and car is also preventing the update because of this all. Can you try removing both connectors from steering rack then reboot and try again?

Gezocht, CCS combo 2 adapter. De kans is klein maar mocht iemand er nog eentje hebben liggen hoor ik het graag

I would love to see an internal wiring diagram from the HV battery internals but I think you need to trace the 12V and if it goes to BMS yes it could be faulty. It's not something that goes bad often. The fault literally says lost contactor power while driving and will be gone when the issue is...

There's a hidden compartment below the first row of fuses see F83

Maybe you get more reactions in the Model 3 subforum. Think your HVIL output voltage is also kind of high, I added screenshot of an healthy HVIL. After DI rear in your print screen shows red, what happens with HVIL voltage when you pull the low voltage DI rear connector?

No positive power on positive jump post is a blown fuse which you can find above the 12V battery. Like already said maybe the emmc inside MCU is busted, if you don't want to involve Tesla you can remove MCU and bring it to someone who can replace emmc chip. Most of the time they can do some...

Strange, when you logout and go to steering rack can you please share the link you are using? It must be something that is different...

I can't find the blue "S" you are referring to. Maybe you are using an corporate version of EPC which has this special function or am I just missing this one?

Did you checked the 2 year old pump on a known good 12V source?

Diagnostic connector https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/pin-out-for-hsd-ethernet-fakra-cable-2017-ms-mcu1-fsd-2020-48.253641/

Did you broke that HVIL pin in HV connector yourself? Makes me wondering which faults where present before and after you start working on the car. CP_w009: BMS_f036 Try Google or see attached document but big chance the issue is in the connector you where holding.

Did they show you where the the brake line went bad? Could you see under the car where the brake fluid came from?

Did you already tried to re-seat connectors X035 X036 with pack still in the car? Second thing I would do is indeed remove pack and inspect/measure X035 X036 for contactor power and grounds. If all is good (also no moisture or oxidation) proceed to open pack if you can find something but keep...

When I zoom in on your picture there is a connector partnumber partly visible so maybe you can Google that otherwise there are sites that sell them too https://tulayswirewerks.com/product/bosch-ibooster-gen-1-universal-wire-harness/

Heb je MCU 1 of 2?

If there is no HV available due to errors that prevents closing contactors then there is definitely no 12V support. Error W405 will not go away untill HV is restored. Could be BMS also uses ground from battery casing as a sort of reductant ground but I don't know for sure

Think so yes, measuring in X035 X036, check connectors, check ground or maybe BMS Contactor output in wiring diagram is for FC contactors which are for fast charging and are in rear junction box so not internally in the battery pack. Internal battery pack (so after X035 and X036) is not in...

Agreed but if BMS can't turn on contactors and proper 12V is provided it could also be a bad ground. With your toolbox session BMS says it doesn't have enough input power to create a voltage for HVIL and suggest to check input voltage from first responder loop. BMS_w062, BMS_w033, BMS_f062...

Well, normally you can just drive with a bad 12V battery. In fact when contactors are closed and you pull 12V battery it will stay on and keep functioning. Normally DCDC has more then enough power to keep the car alive Did you already checked ground point for BMS?

To my understanding U014 is just a standard error that always pops up when there is no 12V support due to a lack of a working DC/DC For example, if DC/DC would work and contactors would close and you should still have this error then I would look further into this error, otherwise not. (It's...

So your PTC fuse was not blown? Did both heaters have the same 'H' revision? I got one PTC with intermittent heat: 1059 989 1164 843 751 764 used other one which I think is good but not tested it yet: 1103 968 1070 947 926 838 (Both H revisions)