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My Shanghai built Long Range MY hasn’t reduced regen on me once yet. My LFP MY does all the time and it’s pretty noticeable. Given your username I assume you’re in Queenstown. Perhaps you will get reduced regen on super cold days, but I wouldn’t be surprised if you didn’t. You’ll have to get a...

The NMC graphs you’ve provided us show degradation up to 90% is identical to LFP - so if that’s how the LG NMCA battery works too, then he could in theory charge daily to 90%. For 400,000km in a taxi you’d say a LFP RWD Model Y might be a better bet - that’s what all the Taxis are in nearby...

I’ve always found it amazing that an LFP car with 250,000km shows the same displayed range as a car of the same age that’s done 25,000km - that’s ten times as many charge cycles (60 v’s 600 approx) and no difference in capacity loss. Basically it’s as if there is no cyclic aging at all, just...

I think it just doesn’t like too much rapid charging at any temp. Regen is a lot of charge for the poor little LFP pack. We get reduced regen in summer on big hills after an hour of driving. But yeah it probably is much better with a warmer battery for sure.

Most tests I’ve seen for LFP cars show more degradation than the loss of indicated range - for high mileage cars the test shows a LOT more degradation than the range loss indicates. It’s hard to know which measure to trust.

LFP cuts regen a LOT just fyi. Head down any half decent hill and the little green brake disk comes on, especially in cold weather. I assume it does start to blend in the brakes, but you can feel the car suddenly speed up when it reduces regen. It’s actually pretty annoying.

Will be interesting to see LFP after 4 years to see if it’s better or worse at the same age and mileage. I predict they’ll be about the same. I lose regen all the time with my LFP - long hills or cold weather it seems to hate. I wonder if you’re getting a bit of blended braking at 100%…

Apparently they do but it’s just not that relevant for regular use of a private vehicle - superior resistance to cyclic aging for taxis, ride share and other high mileage use cases, but for regular use, you won’t do enough cycles to notice a difference and LFP has many more downsides than NCA...

Why? It’s the cheap and inferior battery. NCA is loads better. (Currently own Model Y’s with both)

I don’t think anyone knows how much accuracy you lose by not finishing the calibration, but from experience it can take up to 30 minutes as I said in my original post. At times I haven’t charged to 100% for months, I didn’t notice any loss of accuracy but I wasn’t doing heaps of road trips so...

Nice, so in your view calendar aging is about the across the different types, I don’t disagree. I was just highlighting that there are a few downsides to LFP too. I would also guess that calendar aging makes up a much bigger portion of their overall capacity loss than other chemistries. Cheers

Good intel. I note Shanghai built cars apparently have NMC batteries for the dual motor versions. I wonder how they compare in design terms…. Cheers

Yeah I think that study is ‘oft quoted’ because it’s nice and easy to understand. I have skimmed the study you’ve listed there and the conclusion was reached for batteries at 10% SOC, so probably not mega relevant for EV’s. Studies designed for space travel will probably never be that relevant...

In this graph LFP is degrading 1% or more than NCA at higher states of charge. During the warranty period this might mean 5% more capacity loss for an LFP car with the same number of charge cycles as an NCA car.(not for high mileage cars perhaps) This calendar aging might be made worse by...

I’ve read a few studies and not found this. They’re either the same or LFP is a bit worse. Are you sure you’re not getting confused with cyclic aging? (Seems like everyone does this when extolling the virtues of LFP lol)

Yep I just wonder if LFP - especially with the 100% charging - is calendar aging a little more than NCA. I mean it almost certainly is right, if NCA is aging from both charge cycles and time, but LFP seemingly only from time, but the loss of capacity is much the same between the two over the...

I’ve now had an LFP RWD MY since 2022 and now I’ve also got an NCA MY LR. Although I’m not a battery guru by any means, I’ve been tracking a lot of high mileage cars with both chemistries and have read the study on LFP BYD taxis and pretty much any other info that’s out there on them. I’ve come...

The Model Y does have a lot less road noise than the pre Highland Model 3, so that will no doubt help the stripped back stereo sound ok. A quiet cabin makes a huge difference to car audio sound quality.

That honestly sounds like it would be awful. And it can’t be easily fixed either - the aftermarket M3 wiring kits starting messing with Bluetooth in those cars and people have mostly taken them out now. Adding amps and upgraded speakers is niggly, expensive and eats into any cost savings of...

Have you heard a MY Stereo without the second amp, the sub and several speakers? I would say almost no one has, given it’s only just been taken out, but if you’re basing your opinion on the Model 3 RWD, then I think it’s pretty noticeable. Certainly anyone asking if the speakers can be hooked...

What market you buying in? I believe only US RWD has a downgraded stereo - maybe.

Yeah that’s the conclusion I have also come to after looking at a lot of data in regards to calendar ageing. Unfortunately I do still feel guilty charging to 100% and losing regen half way down a hill annoys me. Weight is another downside, but agree they are safer. Although when my LFP car was...

All this data doesn’t tell us anything new about LFP as it’s just mileage based at this point. LFP suffers from less cyclic aging than NCA, sure. But what about calendar ageing? I feel that it might be worse. Especially with all these cars sitting at 100%. There are quite a few other downsides...

All model Y’s have those. Given the scratches they’ve likely always been like that in your car. :)

A supercharger or any public fast charger bypasses the 32a onboard charger, so the change time isn’t much different to NCA, it will pull less amps, but it’s a smaller battery.

LFP RWD MY is the most common Tesla produced globally nowadays so you won’t struggle for parts. I would take the LFP pack in your situation but there definitely some downsides to LFP. Slower charging - but this also means limited regen down a big hill which can be annoying Cold weather seems to...

For LFP I’m pretty sure Tesla recommend 50% SOC for long term storage somewhere deep in some service manual. Not sure if it’s the same for other chemistries. You are lucky to be able to keep it around 50% most of the time, as many just can’t practically do that with their cars. I have to leave...

Koni Special Active (red) seem to be best ‘drop in’ non adjustable replacement shock for improving the ride at the moment.

Thanks for the explanation! I was amazed at the BYD Atto3 user manual which had all these suggestions for elongating battery life - including avoiding hard acceleration, charging tips, leaving it at a certain SOC etc etc. Absolutely nothing like that in the Tesla manual. Definitely a different...

Model Y LFP is possibly the most prolific of all Teslas produced globally now, so there’s been plenty lurking in this thread since mid/late 2022. It is the first mention of a BYD battery though so you’re definitely definitely half right. :-)

How come the BYD is better than the CATL? I realize it has faster charging speeds for some portion of the curve but my impression was the CATL was a more expensive and durable design.

Despite what was said above, if you read through all 65 pages of this thread you will see people have had a bit of luck with deeper discharges, besides which, doing this in your situation will likely mean your car is going to sit at a lower SOC over night, which they also seem to like...

I thought recent studies suggested supercharging made no difference? There are LFP cars I’ve seen on other sites that have done over 150,000 miles and because they are used for taxi/Uber etc they spend a lot of time on fast or super chargers. They haven’t seemed to have lost any more displayed...

I live in New Zealand and I cannot charge at home, I park on the street. I have lived in the Netherlands as I am half Dutch, I imagine there are plenty of public chargers there too as the Dutch are such a progressive nation. It is absolutely not at all a problem not being able to charge at home...

No one has mentioned the Teins? Seem to get the best reviews out of all the available aftermarket shocks. (In terms of ride comfort anyway)

There are people who do exactly that most days and have done over 150,000 miles in LFP cars without any more range loss than cars with 15,000 miles, so you have nothing to gain by not charging to 100% daily.

Makes sense - explains why the wheels grind on kerbs so efficiently too

Not many people have actually driven a late 23 MY RWD on 19’s back to back with the late 22 MY RWD on 19’s with the same tyre pressure. Funnily enough my work colleague has one so I could do this tomorrow and report back. I have run as low as 34 psi on the Hancooks but they get squidgy and wear...

Did you see this post: “ I had a similar issue (2022 MYP, Fremont, built 12/2021) of slight fluctuating cabin pressure which made my ears pop often and made my head feel strange. Also made me tired fairly quickly. However my trunk made fairly loud snare drum sounds whenever going over bumpy...

MY made me feel sick + sore ears when I first got it. Went away after a while. It is different somehow to an ICE car for sure. Definitely moves a bit differently with much tighter cabin sealing perhaps. I think your body gets used to it.

Would love for someone to test one on a dry winding road against a long range MY, just to see if that 150kg of weight above the front axle makes much difference to the handling.

I strongly disagree - I think it’s the charge settings - if it says daily to 80%, 100% for a trip, it’s definitely not LFP.

Used M3P’s start at NZ $56k/27k UKP. They are cheap enough in NZ to make this plan definitely not worth it.

I’ve not seen any evidence it’s restricted - it might be, I’ve just never seen anything about it - what is true though is the motor has a powerband, and doesn’t hit peak power until about 50 mph, so it might be related to the torque curve of the motor also. Maybe it’s both.

One second faster to 60 is quite a big deal - the current car is a bit of a slug below 20 mph - I bet a lot of the extra grunt is low down.

I was thinking of fitting 275’s on my stock wheels to improve ride and curb protection - thinking twice about that now!

@globalmax Sorry, we gotta call the respective Tesla Service Center out on this one. We've had multiple chats with drivetrain & test engineers in the Tesla inner circle who've been there over a decade give us insight to grinding, squeaking, bouncy bed noises😃 coming from the axles (with or...

Sad about no LFP, but more importantly, what motor does it have? Just the piddly little 6.9 second 0 - 60 one, or the bigger 5.9 second jobbie?

Are Hyundai and Kia EV’s bullet proof in terms of reliability? I have heard a lot of horror stories about pretty much every EV out there aside from Model 3 & Model Y which generally seem to be pretty reliable. Haven’t heard much about Hyundai or Kia so is it safe to assume they are reliable too?

Don’t think the smaller battery cars ever displayed 444km? I think they started at around 420km. The 60kw cars started at 445km or thereabouts pretty sure. Your range loss is identical to everyone else with a two year old 54kw car.