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Please post how this works out.

They have confirmed to me that they are "seconds" but I have been unable to find out what was wrong with them. Mine seem to work fine but since I came from SAE lights I probably would not recognize the deficiency.

If you have a good relationship with your SC I would try them first. They won't turn on the tilt feature but they may install the parts. Won't hurt to stop by and ask.

Is there any difference in balancing if the car is plugged in or not? I have been told to charge to 100% and leave it plugged in and also unplug it and leave it.

Are you covering the opposite headlight when adjusting each? Or just fine tuning it with both headlights exposed?

As I recall, mine might be a little taller on the right also. Can't say if that is normal though. I think it is more important to have the horizontal beams lined up at the right height.

Definitely no bolt in the v section. It is empty now with the current design. Do not loosen the arms. They should be installed as they came from Tesla.

Then it has to be related to where those bolts screw in. Make sure they are going in the right holes. It is a bit difficult getting the holes to line up while pressing the display flat (don’t push too hard). I’m wondering if the passenger side bolt missed its hole. That would be enough to tilt...

One more thought. If you do not insert the last 2 bolts, does the screen sit flush with the dash when you press it in?

Both sets. The ones that mount the display to the carrier and the ones that mount the carrier to the car. Both of the following pics are view from underside. These mount the display to the carrier (display is at bottom in this pic): and these mount the carrier to the car (display is at top...

That is probably the cause because when flush the motors don't interfere with anything. When you sent that to me via DM I thought you meant something was in the way causing it. Now I realize it is probably a mis-alignment in the mounting bolt connections. I suggest taking it all the way out...

Is the screen pushed all the way in? When flat it should be really tight against the dash.

Same here. I'm always pleased now when I get the new FSD version about as fast as it appears. Sort of makes up for the pain we went through with the early versions.

Glad to hear that they made it right. It's just too bad that it had to get to that point. Hopefully your next one will be perfect.

Same here. I found a parking garage at a nearby hospital that worked. The top level had some good flat area and the wall was high enough.

Congrats. You are going to love them! Don't forget the alignment procedure: Headlights - Adjust (Global) (Wall Method) I was getting flashed (the wrong way) when I just guessed on the height.

If you are connected via the service shell the commands should be: gw-diag SET_CONFIG_DATA 00 28 02 reboot-gateway The tilt screen change should be: gw-diag SET_CONFIG_DATA 00 132 02 reboot-gateway You can combine the commands and then reboot the gateway.

I will try .10 or .15 but probably not any more. I could be wrong but .30 seems like it's getting into the range where the tire starts scrubbing.

I thought the same thing but have not seen any obvious differences yet between the old computer and the new one. The rumor is that so few people use the Steam games that it doesn't make sense to include the extra RAM.

You can also go to 2021-2022 Tesla Model S/X H-MTD Media Converter Rental To rent from Lee. It’s $75 for 5 days. That’s reasonable. From what I have heard a steam deck is a better experience. I don’t play much in the way of games. I upgraded for a couple other reasons and plan to sell the...

The steam upgrade includes the RJ45 Ethernet port. If you need to rent a media converter, contact @leecox

Yes. I'm going to move my camber to the -0.8° to -1.0° range and my toe to 0.10". Will see if that helps. The current setting did not have a significant effect on my inner edge wear.

I just proposed loss of rigidity as an example of a sidewall failure that may not be obviously apparent and could still be related to the failures we are seeing. 100% conjecture on my part.

You say no sidewall failure of any sort but Michelin says there is. There could certainly be a loss of rigidity in the sidewall. I’m not saying that’s what it is, just saying that a blanket statement like yours is not helpful. Especially when Michelin says the opposite. I have gone through 2-3...

Hmmmm, maybe internal sidewall failure is causing a change in road contact. That could lead to the inner edge wear. It would also indicate defective tire design.

One tip, it's a little difficult to re-insert the 10mm bolts when reinstalling the display with the mechanism. In fact I had to press pretty firmly on the screen (near the edges of course) to get the holes to line up. It is harder to get the bolts in the holes with the lower shroud in place...

Yes. I was told it has to have a voltage >14.5 volts. I found a 14.6V 20A Lithium Battery Charger that I was told would work if needed. There is a procedure in service.tesla.com for using a maintainer.

Correct. Apparently there is some time in the update routines before it connects and starts getting power from the LV charging system. If those don't go right it could be running on its own too long. At least that was how it was explained to me by someone who knows far more that I. He said...

What I did was to install the tilt mechanism first and then did the VCLEFT the next day just before the config change. That reduces the time you are off the LV battery. I was advised that if the LV battery dies (MOSFETs open) then it is a real pain to get it going again. Similar with the...

I asked the same thing and have not been able to find any difference.

Normally the tilt screen config changes are not affected by firmware updates. But if you have to re-download from the mothership you will probably lose it. Mine survived firmware update but was lost when I replaced my computer. I had to re do the change.

Mine is a June 3, 2021 build. I’m sure some my parts came from prototypes. I gave up on the PLAID badge and went with the graphic badge. It took a while though. Now people ask what it means…

It’s a little bit harder to access the bolts (cutouts in the lower shroud will guide you). I’m thinking that’s why they got left out in some cars. It is worth having IMO though.

Don’t forget the adapters from @leecox / evstreet.net. They work great. I’m guessing you have ordered them, just posting for others benefit.

Definitely sticker shock. I got mine on ebay for $600/pair brand new from seller Zapaska (now a bit higher priced) . Mine were rev -F and I know @leecox got his from ebay as well and they were rev -E. Both work in our cars. DM me if you want links.

If you don't have the upper shroud, the mechanism will show when tilted. The lower shroud covers the bottom opening and keeps fingers out. You could always remove the display bolts and slide your screen out a bit to check. If you have them you are good to go. This pic is from the EPC and...

Did you also order the upper and lower shrouds? I ordered both so I would not have to take the screen off just to check. They were only a few dollars each. It turned out that I had the upper shroud installed but the lower one was missing. Here are the part numbers: UPPER SHROUD...

It is by design. I had the same concern.

They are a huge improvement. I am so happy with my headlights now. I don’t really miss the cornering lights.

Like you, I wanted a factory new VCLEFT and ordered through my SC. It took weeks to arrive. Part of the delay was certainly due to the firings.

If you mean compared to the new cars that come with them, none that I have been able to see. Even the light shows work. If you mean compared to our OEM headlights, you lose the cornering light.

Ok. I got the scoop today from the tech who replaced my computer. He did not do any config changes. The matrix lights and the interior trim change survived because they were automatically saved to the mothership and downloaded with the rest of the car config after the steam computer upgrade...

Check your DMs. I was told that they are replacing outside of peeling issues when available since they know peeling will happen eventually.

Yes. Mine was replaced without any peeling. I did let them know that the horn was problematic and I could not honk a couple times when I needed it. This was just before a 3,000 mile road trip to SpaceX and back and I really wanted a properly functioning horn.

They are being replaced now even if not peeling. Have you asked recently?

I’m loving the tilt screen. Now that I’m used to it tilted toward me, flat against the dash just seems wrong.

Are the right and left values significantly different? If so it sounds like Tesla needs to shift the front subframe. Easy procedure for them, you just need to get them to do it.

To add to that, I see both parts in the EPC. Maybe USS vs non-USS cars? ASY. LEFT CONTROLLER GEN 4 1585694-03-B Left Controller Gen 4 1585694-00-C

I just checked the Model X procedure and it does not mention it either. I also take pics for exactly the same reasons. I could not this time due to the tight quarters so I identified each bundle in the procedure first. BODY 7 was hidden so I didn't notice it until double checking all...

Great write up. I just went through this 2 days ago. I bought the VCLEFT 03-B controller new because if you get a defective one there will be all sorts of problems. The VCLEFT controller was indeed a PITA (and rib cage). My right side still hurts. I had to do it a couple times because...