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9450A, IF you have copper wiring. The outlet you have is aluminum compatible. If you have aluminum wiring you need to pick a better aluminum-compatible outlet or go to a lot of trouble to stick copper ends on your aluminum wires(which would suck).

Yes

Yes, first and only post of a new bot.

There was no model 3 in 2015. You can't cause damage by putting a new 12V battery in. The high voltage battery is all but guaranteed to be trashed by this point, but I wouldn't think extra damage would be caused by trying to charge it.

Zoro is great! They used to have a pretty messed up shipping department though. I ordered some driveway reflectors(maybe 12, of several types), and got free shipping because of the overall cost. They came in FOUR boxes, two of which were 12"x12"x6', the others were smaller squares, maybe...

What do you mean? (I haven't loaded any updates)

To expand on that extra troubleshooting, try an L2 charger in the wild, like any chargepoint station. If it also starts above 16 amps and quickly drops back to 16, its a failure in the onboard PCS and you need to get your car into a service center.

I'd definitely say that comfort costs more energy, but the difference would be so very small you should ignore it. Use what is 'comfortable' to you. For me, that's 'sport' mode all the time. I'd much rather have a better feel for the road than be able to move the steering wheel without effort.

Yep, my mistake. The green is pretty dark to me, and I just assumed the ground sits between L1 and L2(doh!) Its fine!

No safety issues there. I'm not a professional electrician, which is debatably worse than not being an electrician at all. That said, I've seen plenty of reports of 'professional' electrician's work that is unsafe or obviously incorrect.

That's so very normal. If anything its LESS mileage lost than expected.

That RED ground wire is giving me the shivers, btw! I'm pretty sure that a surge protector of that nature is intended for subsecond surges, and I'd be surprised if the protector itself wasn't damaged by this event.

You should probably consult Tesla, since you are right at (170/0.8=212) 69-70% of the 303 original range.

If you are happy, I'm happy. Why not ask an inspector if they are happy?

Far too much of an installed base to do that now. Additionally, the cords(to carry 150-250kw) are big, heavy, expensive items. I understand newer ones are even liquid cooled. Its an added expense that no one will welcome. They'll take up space/weight in the car, some folks won't be...

Can't really blame tesla for a bunch of that. A gas station needs no more power than a standard home. A bank of 8 superchargers, even the 150kw variety, is more like installing a small subdivision. Each pair capable of 150kw continuous is roughly equivalent to three 200A equipped homes, so...

Wasn't it advertised at 272 miles? That four miles is not even noise.

Sure, but you could put a failsafe in there, like "Hey, I haven't heard from the load-checker in a minute, lets turn the amperage down to 0(or some other small number." I definitely agree the 'cloud' is not a place for this communication. Hopefully even with the RS485 they still have a...

I would think that if they require a particular revision they'd have to mention it in the PDF. It is indeed possible that the RS-485 doesn't need extra components for all one bit per second(or whatever) transfer rate they need. I'm just as surprised they didn't just use wifi for the...

Its not a safety concern at all. I'm just not sure an inspector will be happy with it.

Fair enough, I stand corrected.

Safe, yes. I'm not an electrician by trade, but I'd suspect that individual conductors going into the HPWC is on the hairy edge of legit. I understand the cable being clamped by the box(but on a side note I really hate that type of 'clamp', IMHO it doesn't really work and is easy to make fail)...

Looks fine, I wouldn't have bothered to get the white wire into the HPWC at all. Technically there's supposed to be a cable clamp instead of the conduit terminator in the back of the HPWC(unless you are using conduit to get to it), but you are also supposed to run the cable(not individual...

It depends on the ambient temperature around the breaker and what power the neighboring breakers are taking. There's certainly no guarantee that a 50 amp breaker will or will not trip with a 48 amp load, and you can't go bitchin to the NEC or Square-D if it does(or doesn't!)

No, it comes out of the box set for a 60 amp breaker. You NEED to go set it up following the instructions included with the HPWC. If you plug it into a performance model 3 right now, it'll happily try to take 48 amps. If its 48 amps on #6awg, the breaker is unlikely to trip and your house is...

Its battery temperature related, and you have probably only just started noticing it.

Tesla “Chill Mode”: 6 Typical Questions (Explained) | Motor & Wheels suggests around 7 seconds for a 0-60 in chill mode. Its plenty for normal driving. At the same time, a 100hp car is also plenty for normal driving, but even slower. Its not hard to toggle(open driving menu, press 'standard' or...

I've never used it, but I'd wager that mule tape won't deal with wire staples all that well and 6 gauge NMB doesn't bend all that well even when you have your hands on it.

I think this question has been asked and answered before in this very thread. There should be no problem going directly to the terminals, but don't make the wires any shorter than they are. Leave whatever excess there is(or you can get) in the base of the HPWC. I'm pretty sure the intent of that...

Drilling a hole in the faceplate may not be approved. I betcha someone makes a prebuilt for that. That whip doodad is 6 feet long, unless it can be cut down to something like a foot, it's gonna look ridiculous. Not a big fan of wire nuts for wires this big, but its probably okay. Get enough...

Ground wire for #6 conductors actually only needs to be #10, MUCH smaller than #6.

Your picture with the red star is clearly not of the same box as the picture you started with. Indeed, thanks to google image search, I've found you asked basically all the same questions almost exactly a year ago in Gen 3 Wall Connector Installation Advice and we already answered them in...

If you truly stomp on it it is still MUCH slower. Like decent Honda Accord slower.

You should really get an electrician. You have no hope whatsoever of following the instructions regarding routing given the wire you have available, you need something north of a FOOT of wiring inside the base. NMB wiring is a sheath enclosing individual insulated(black, red, white) and bare...

The bottom screws won't have any affect on that play(at the top). Removing the faceplate and adding a layer or two of tape(probably electrical tape) to the tangs that engage the top of the faceplate should fix it.

240 at 90% would be 266 at 100% (240/0.9) That's 14% degradation. Worse than average, but less than half what you need before Tesla will do anything. Maybe describe your mileage and charge habits.

Not clear why the last comment garnered a 'dislike' from @Resist . I kinda hate chill mode, and have enough control over my right foot to have effective-chill mode when I want it, whilst also having gobs of acceleration when I >need<it. Note the latter is seldom needed, but I'd feel like such a...

Not if you don't use the extra acceleration afforded by 'standard'. Even if you do, the difference should be pretty small.

Gen3 HPWC disassembly, with overheating issues explained! shows that its not supposed to be sealed or water tight. I've checked the two Gen3's I have in stock, and both have a little faceplate play. One is somewhat worse than the other.

You should easily be able to tell if your solar system has enough excess capacity to charge your car. My impression is that it will NOT. 300km is 186 miles. That 186 miles you want to recharge will be 186 times 333 wh/mi(roughly, after all vampire losses and such), or 62kwh. Does your current...

Nothing to worry about.

Do you have (or have you ever had) any third party apps on your phone that might be constantly/repeatedly waking up your car remotely?

I'm surprised it moves that much, but you probably shouldn't worry about it. There's another layer of plastic/seal under there that makes the innards >almost< watertight. If it really bothers you, you could probably fix it by taking the HPWC body off the wall and unscrewing the faceplate(two...

Any error messages? Is the credit card associated with the account in good standing and unexpired?

Just FYI, this is usually one of the things you figure out BEFORE you drive home with your new EV. No, you can't just add a new 6-20 outlet to that circuit. All of the available power is going to the hot water heater. Even if it wasn't, EV circuits must be dedicated to only charging the EV, not...

That doesn't sound very 'pure sinewavy' to me. A different charger(actually connector) won't fix this issue, but a better inverter should.

Yes, downhill with a tailwind :)

I'm just trying to get OP's UMC to work, not to keep him/her from getting electrocuted :)

But does the car/charger even know what 'ground' is? All it sees is three wires, and with luck the middle one is a steady midpoint of the other two. Even in a split phase 240 system the ground may not be absolutely perfect(hopefully it is). In theory, the transformer referenced would provide a...

If its on the short wall, you won't even know there are lights. If its on the long wall and the lights bother you, you can stick some white duct tape over them. It looks like the head of your bed will be mostly blocked by the short wall anyway. If you really want, its not difficult to...