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Crazy question. Is the steering wheel not centered or the 2 stalks not at the same level? Mine has that and gives an illusion that the wheel is not straight.

Have the same issue. Will be fun when tomorrow will go to the service center for a pre sale inspection if they’ll put the air suspension as failed…

I have the same issues on my 85D. I initially thought I am getting crazy, but had to put the car on jack mode that was greyed out. After 15 minutes of pressing it the car went in Jack mode, but impossible to remove it after. had to drive to disable it.

The facelift codes are different, but even those have the same issues (I have them as I have retrofitted the new bumper).

Not sure if I should pay another hour to clear the radiator ones. Both sides are doing a loud cracking noise at start, but I can clearly hear the actuator motors.

Do you have any details/ part code for this V2? Wonder if they are talking about the Center louver as that is where the horn is.

For Model S the weakest point will be the air suspension and the AC system that can cost a lot to fix. After some other common problems are the large drive unit if RWD or Performance. Stay away from the 70/85 packs and it should keep you safe for a longer period. Having an 85D bought SH I would...

With the frunk removed have noticed so E plastic creaking noises in the front. They are 100% from the center louvers. With the actuator removed it’s hard to twist the flap by hand. Looks like something is also physically broken there.

Battery heater is fine, unfortunately the service center sold me the left fan instead of the right one and only noticed after fighting with it to get it out…

After physical inspection, the right hand condenser fan is seized…

I know, those are new…seems every other month there’s another part that breaks

Is there a way to test the actuators on a bench? Or they cannot operate without the can/lin signal?

Have you found what the problem was?

Have removed the plug on the driver side, same error on for the right side. Have unplugged the passenger one, the left rad error came on. Have swapped the driver one with another actuator and now both are erroring out. It feels the system is messing with me. After a termal test the ambient temp...

I’ll need to do a full revamp on mine, but for now I am guessing the right is on the driver side, just based on the temp sensor reading. Will remove the frunk, start preconditioning and check if something is indeed melting and if the radiator actuator is easily reachable

Is there a consensus on what is the right side vs left? My car seems to have both right condenser and rad having issues. At the same time, after supercharging the displayed ambient temp is crazy high and the temp sensor is supposed to be on left side (driver). Wonder if they are linked (also...

Or making people jumping in newer cars :) I know that mine was doing pretty well in the supercharging side, from where the unpleasant surprise. Was checking the data in teslafi and can confirm the additional nerfing. Not sure if other packs are targeted, but haven’t heard of any. Even the 75s...

Same here…jumps at 130kW just to drop in few seconds to 90…. Very unpleasant

Anyone managed to replace one of the actuators on the front condenser? Just got one error and not sure if this is also related to my now way slower supercharging… If not, I saw this isn’t a DYI job as the system needs to be purged and radiators removed.

This morning I was greeted by a burnt plastic/rubber smell while car was still preconditioning (plugged in). This is the first occurrence and have checked the charger and was not hot. The smell was coming from the front of the car and I am wondering if it can be a failed PTC or AC compressor...

Would this be because of the NACS that requires same type of enablement as CCS now?

@Koike On Android you need to request the beta version from the store. On iOS CAC is populated in the regular version.

You won the pack lottery. Now you can even pay to get the full 90kWh pack and make your car a 90D

At 20Ah CAC imbalance your pack is hanging by a thread

Awesome to see that you are still around, even if just as an enthusiast. The community, myself included have learned a lot from your work. As for the business…hope they will do the right things for the customers.

Was thinking at that, but need to confirm the 355mm hats will fit the 370mm rotors. Will also be kind of expensive when only hats are needed :)

Trying my luck here. Had made custom hats for my Model S GM conversion and ran into some issues (seems the machine shop did the hats 1mm too thin) and the rotor is not perfectly centered. Anyone knows a place that sells 370mm rotors for the S or just a pair of hats?

No update from the seller, but managed to be error free since I have put silicone on the wire end of the connector. Probably will replace them with proper ones in the spring

They will offer 4y, 80k km. As told you in the dm, if a 3rd party opens the pack, Tesla won’t accept it as core credit

@cteomd, is 18k CAD the estimate from Tesla Laval? Can you share the part number?

would be interesting to find out more about the profile if such exist. In TB3 have only seen a field about the battery type, no profile.

I am on 2023.44.1 on MMCU2 and don't have the single pull

had that on my 2015 with MCU2 after a service visit...reboot fixed it

Service center should do their job.... TB3 is behind a paywall...why pay for something that they are supposed to do?

If you have the readouts from the old pack go back to them. And it seems they did not performed the 2 routines for pack repalcement (available in Service menu + on MCU2 after connection to Toolbox 3).

Agree with the rwd/awd, but mine is 85D… The lifetime consumption increased over the last 2y of ownership from 199Wh/km to 203Wh/km (180k km). The last 70k km are at 209Wh/km. This morning, -10 celsius, 19km started from heated garage (20 degrees, preconditioned), 335Wh/km. My assumption is...

@ResHacker , was the 85 less efficient than this? In similar temps and without box on the roof I am above 300Wh/km even on longer drives and without battery heater (leaving from heated garage, preconditioned). Wondering if it’s a sign that the pack is getting older…

Could be a sensor that reads too low? My 85D is not using the heater unless it’s outside for a long period of time. But consumption is high anyway :)) Range mode on

2016.5+ with AP1 they all have next gen seats. I would keep the old one and wait until they introduce steer by wire or other improvements.

Was around 35 euros + VAT

For small operations have used the 1h subscription using an european country for an additional account.

Was also thinking to upgrade the projectors inside the xenon ones, but didn’t had the patience opening the lights. Compared to the 8.5y xenons the LEDs are brighter and can see better during the night. That alone is a win. Will probably try the new 2021+ headlights at one point.

Had the same xenon projectors and aging projectors are nowhere near the light from a LED reflector, even the lower quality Tesla ones. I am happy with the change, but would definitely like to upgrade to the Matrix ones

I think I have found the issue… the emulator connector to the car harness is not water tight… Hope a good blow and clean will fix the issue. Have also sent a message to Evetesla as I find it odd to not have waterproof connectors in that area..

Hello everyone, Have retrofitted the LED headlights in my 85D few months ago using the emulators from Evetesla.com. All good, until tonight when car started to flash using both the turn signal and the high beam when turning left. Initially have thought the amber LED is dead and was a “feature”...

200miles at that mileage seems very low. I am at 128k miles and still have 250 rated on a full charge

Ok, so your car is a 2016.5+ car that already has LIN

That is ageneric ebay honeycomb grill. The radiators wer enot touched during the conversion. Have even replaced the crash bar as it was rusted and have not moved the radiators. they are on their own support. The radar is also not touched Only thing I have moved is the homelink, have zip tied it...

Any additional wires were installed from the headlight to the body module? I know that was teh solution for LEDs to not trow an error on low beam, even with the proper headlight configuration in Toolbox

More expensive, worth just for the picture https://a.aliexpress.com/_mtlYZxk