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Sorry to break the bad news, but you only have two choices, neither of which will guaranty that you only charge between midnight and 5AM. You can set the start time, as you found, or you can set the end time of the off-peak period, and the car will try to calculate when it should start. My...

Calling people who question you "trolls" is very bad form. If Chargepoint is misrepresenting their product, we would be happy to agree with you, but we haven't been able to see where they have. You've made assertions without evidence. If you tell us where those assertions come from, then we can...

Yes, a lot of people don't understand how Sentry mode works. It doesn't notice an event, then start recording, it records constantly and when it detects an event, saves the current recording. So, the drain is constant.

In short, the adapters for RVs and the adapters for EVs are wired differently. Neither will work for the other use. Get one labeled for EV use and limit the charge rate to 24a and it would work fine. The EVSEadapters link above is nice because it will limit charging rate to the max that 30a...

Tesla had the advantage of not having to work with anything but Tesla vehicles. They didn't even implement billing for the first several years, just gave it away free, without worrying about making money. When they did do it, they could hook into their own back end, and didn't have to accept...

Yes, but laws are not the same and this whole thread is about U.S. code in regards to disconnects. Plus, you don't even say what you're trying to do. Plug in a mobile connector? Install a wall connector?

Everything in this thread is specific to North America. Your question doesn't even make sense. All good for what? Anyway, you should probably ask in the regional forum for your area.

Do you really want to subject the battery in your expensive CT to extra cycling on a regular basis? I'd rather add another Powerwall.

Congrats for answering 4 year old posts in a thread last replied to 2 years ago, and getting your facts wrong. A 240v circuit is made up of two 120v phases, which makes it less than 150v to ground.

The relays should never be carrying significant current when closing or opening. The car commands them to close, checks the voltage, then starts drawing current. Same when you press the button to remove the plug, the car stops drawing current, then commands the relays to open (or the removal of...

The chance of both of the other modules failing at the same time isn't very high. 16a charging is enough to get to work and to the service center. I'd probably live with 32a until and unless a second module failed.

I could see that happening if the EVSE is malfunctioning and signaling a higher charge rate than it actually supports. If the car started pulling more than than 30a or so, the EVSE might abort the charge. Many cars max out around 30-32a anyway, so would just work, but Teslas go higher. If you...

With the burnt look of the PC board, I'd have probably added jumper wires to the back of the board to parallel the traces that carry the charging current. Couldn't hurt.

I went back to find @FalconFour's writeup on the DIY retrofit and he says Oct 2020, so I assume that's the cutoff. https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/retrofit-ccs-compatibility-onto-earlier-na-model-3-diy-approach.251046/

You may want to check that you don't already have CCS compatibility by going into software->additional info. Some cars of that vintage did get the CCS capable ECU if I remember right.

Actually somewhere in mid to late 2019 as I recall.

Another panel is not required. That's one of the features of the DCC-9 and DCC-11. I mentioned it only as a possible method to install other demand charging solutions. However, they do need to be wired between the meter and the main panel, so that's why I'm asking about where they are located.

The J3400 spec doesn't include the CAN style comms that current wall connectors (and I think mobile connectors) use before falling back to J1772, so I expect they will use straight J1772 signalling. The current crop of Tesla to J1772 adapters have logic to get the Tesla EVSE to fall back to...

I'm guessing that your meter is in or adjacent to your garage and the main panel is in the basement? You should be able to install any DCC type of solution by putting a new main panel in the garage fed from the meter that then feeds the old main panel in the basement. That new main panel would...

The cars themselves can schedule charging, so the EVSE doesn't really need the capability.

You can replace the 14-50 with a small load center (example below) then use two breakers installed there to do the runs to the wall connectors. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-D-Homeline-100-Amp-6-Space-12-Circuit-Indoor-Surface-Mount-Main-Lug-Load-Center-with-Cover-HOM612L100SCP/100190554

I agree it sounds like this might be the case. If the OP would post photos of both the car's inlet, and the plug they are plugging in, we might be able to see what the problem is.

Just to reinforce what's been said. All L2 charging rates are slow in the context of these large batteries. There's nothing to be gained by lowering the charging rate from a battery degradation point of view.

Maybe a few, but it really seems to be Tesla policy to hang onto any old parts they can.

That's where the neutral would have ended up if the NM cable had been long enough to be installed normally. I would have done the same thing.

Wow. That's a pretty basic thing to miss. Especially to miss TWICE. He certainly made no attempt to verify the wall connector was powering on successfully.

If it was replaced under warranty, it has the balance of the original warranty. If the battery swap was paid for out of pocket, then it has it's own warranty.

Great news! Would you be willing to give us a longer synopsys? Like who repaired it, how it was finally diagnosed, and what status you now have with Tesla and your warranty?

Post in thread '16A Restriction in Private Household? (Europe)' 16A Restriction in Private Household? (Europe) So there's either some way that they get to use at least two of the modules at once, or the charger really is different.

I don't think that's been true for some time. At least not with a Tesla wall connector.

Of course, if the jumper pack is inside the car, then you can't use it to open the frunk. Some people store a small 9v battery behind that cover to use to open the frunk, then keep the jumper pack in the frunk so they can then jump the car.

I had a similar problem crop up a few weeks ago. I had a few instances where the mobile connector my wife uses would show red lights. Unplugging it and plugging it back in would fix the problem. A week or so later, the AFCI breaker for the plugs in one of the bedrooms tripped. When I went to...

Sounds like a reasonable interim, or even permanent, solution. I just wanted to point out that you don't have to upgrade to 60a to install a wall connector, a lot of people here just like to max everything out. It can be set for the 30a circuit you have now, if you like.

My undertanding is that the charger itself is the same unit in NA and the EU. In EU cars, three phase charging is done by connecting each of the three phases one of the three modules in the charger. This is one of the reasons why our NA chargers even HAVE three modules in them instead of just...

As you know, anything, no matter how sturdy will last longer if NOT exposed to the elements. The Wall Connector is designed to be outdoors and will last, however, it will probably last longer if not outdoors. My take on it is that I'd rather face replacing the WC a little sooner rather than...

I'm confident that the newer M3 SR+ with the heat pump won't save enough energy to give you more range than the LR, even in very cold weather. It really doesn't matter to the battery whether you charge every three days, or every day, although if in order to make it three days, you are charging...

On the billing question, there have been a bunch of ways that people have dealt with that: The easiest is if you can wire the EVSE into your own unit's metered electric service. Then you pay for it on your regular electric bill, no fuss. There are several approaches to doing this depending on...

That might work (and it might not if they insist on GFCI because it's in a garage), but lying on your permit application and to the inspector is hardly a recommended practice.

You're confusing the thread by mixing issues with old Tesla wall connectors (what the thread is about) and old Nissan EVSEs. You answered @Rocky_H 's comment about Tesla EVSEs with Nissan info. We should probably just drop the Nissan talk.

Well, I happen to know what the problem is here. The control pilot is the signal that tells the car what the max amperage the EVSE can deliver is. It is supposed to be a square wave at 1kHz between -12v and 12v. The early Nissan EVSEs (and a few others) didn't bother with the negative swing and...

After seeing the picture of the OP's panel, I understand exactly where he's coming from. However, unless he's simply going to ignore permitting, he still needs to deal with the GFCI issue. I see two ways to deal with that. 1. Switch to a wall connector (at 30a), then he doesn't need one. 2...

My favorite is "award winning". Sure, probably awarded by the same local rag or website you advertise in every day.

Glad you hear you came to an outcome you can live with. In the end, the whole mess still seems to be Tesla's fault. By not branding the title when they totaled it, or reporting it to CarFax, etc.., they opened the door for the dealer to either unknowingly sell it as a clean car with warranty, or...

What exactly happens when you plug in? Have you seen this wall connector charge any car?

Oh, why-oh why-oh....

You should look at what amps or kW the car is reporting. Since a Model 3 RWD can't charge at over 32a, I find it likely that the current measurement is off in the EVSE, reporting a higher current draw than actual. which is a pretty harmless error. If the car is reporting the correct 32a, then...

You can run them all in black if you like. It can save a lot of money to buy just one large spool/package of black instead of smaller lengths of different colors. Just mark the neutral white and the ground green at both ends as noted above. You can mark one of the hots red if you like, but it's...

It worth noting that the car doesn't need a retrofit, but if you want to use CCS stations, you will have to buy the adapter.

Every single one has it. It's the latch button. It does double duty, not only working the latch, but signaling the car that the button is pressed so it stops charging. In the case of a Tesla, that also unlocks the charge port so the adapter can be removed.

Exactly. Now the car does have to be awake and unlocked, but having the phone (as key) in your pocket when you do it is usually sufficient. If for any reason it doesn't work, try opening a door first.