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Here's what mine is currently set to. I cut off the right side because there were bad readings on it after we put the car back on the rack after a few launches to make a caster adjustment. I know if I post the entire sheet, people won't read what I say about ignoring the incorrect right side...

.30 is not a lot and the suspension setting has nothing to do with it. I've got a lot of aftermarket bushings and arms installed. The reason I did that was we made videos of it with the stock setup and you can watch the tire go toe out with all the stock parts. After upgrading everything, the...

If the sidewall was losing rigidity, the wear strip wider and would be more up on the sidewall where it is collapsing. not located specifically on the corner of the treadblock on a thin strip. This is also why I laugh when people are saying to run more pressure in their tire to fix the...

That makes no sense if camber arms and alignments are fixing the issue. And also, there is no sidewall failure of any sort. The excess wear is typical of too much toe out and can be verified by the thousands of online photos showing examples of tire wear with excess toe out.

What do you mean it's not relevant in any way? You state that Michelin tires are defective and that other brand tires are not suffering "sidewall failure" (although none of the sidewalls are failing). You also state that asking for a single example of a Michelin tire failing after mitigating...

They will hold up slightly better because those falkens are much harder, which means they slide more and wear less.

No because the tire size is weird and no one uses much else other than the PS4S. Most of us who are smart enough to use different brands/sizes have already also put arms on.

There are examples. I posted one of a model x on 22" pirelli with the identical problem. You can also scan back a few years and see the previous model S had similar issues. The only difference now is that it is pronounced significantly more because we're running 300+hp through each individual...

I'm still waiting for him to show me a single person that has had shims or arms installed and had an alignment (obviously not at Tesla) that are having this issue. Asked for a single instance of it months ago and he still hasn't been able to provide one. You'd think out of the hundreds of...

I have to get an alignment about every 5-6 months no matter what. Just had the summer one done yesterday. People are having difficulty understanding the level of force and stress that occurs on a near-5000 pound car with 1000whp. This is not a Hyundai Accent where the alignment will last 5 years.

"within spec" doesn't work. That's how you ended up in this thread to begin with. They only align in the medium setting, and can have a rear toe of 0.05 according to the manual (within spec). Car goes into low setting and 100% you are now in negative toe. Add in dynamic toe on top of the...

Will give you a heads up on any Porsche spec tire, they have extremely stiff sidewalls, and suck in cold weather more so than the other spec ones. They do heat up quicker, but that also usually means they get greasy sooner too. I run na0 and nf0 tires exclusively (except when running 19's)...

I have multiple suspension upgrades and 3 different sets of 19" and 2 different sets of 21" ... My issue is that I like to watch the tires evaporate in clouds of smoke as it's sliding around. These are the current 19" on there, about 1.5 pounds lighter than the OEM 19 with the aero cover removed

Really wish I knew what it was like to not have to buy tires every few months. Damn throttle...

Any time you touch anything on the suspension, even unbolting it and bolting the same part back in, you should ALWAYS get an alignment.

that's a standard design, pretty much anyone that makes wheels can get them for you. my personal recommendation though, is to get a set with a flat lip instead of the beveled edge, unless you want it for purely cosmetic purposes, because the beveled lips I have made before add a bit of weight...

Factory height

These are the OEM calipers. I just removed the black ones and replaced them with red ones. I'm pretty sure they will clear the track pack brakes, I'm just waiting on a friend to get some availability so I can test it on those. But these unplugged rotors have a 8 or 10 mm spacer on the caliper...

Thank you, there were some aesthetic changes I implemented on this to make them look larger. The first part was the broken pattern on the lip, if you do a solid ring around the lip it makes small wheels look small. If part of the lip is open, it looks larger. The second change was the lip is...

I had them manufactured under my brand. But I'm not a vendor here, so I gotta respect the rules and can't post a link.

This is the OG red with stek ppf.

Wasn't sure if the machining design would look good, and since these were just for the track/check clearances, figured I'd give it a try. Turned out way better than expected. These are factory specs on 19". Weigh about 3 pounds less than the 19" OEM with hubcaps on. Need to implement a design...

That's because it does a more significant weight transfer to the rear end. It also could be the tires turning over a little more as drag mode allows for more rear wheel spin. Hard to know which is which because it happens so fast, but you can feel it.

Similar happened to me at an event a few weeks ago. I'll be keeping tape in the trunk to put over the cameras and sensors when there's a money race moving forward. Lost that one because the flagger stepped a little into my lane and the car wouldn't launch even though obstacle aware...

Depends on the surface and how much time I have to stage. Sometimes normal plaid mode is faster off the line than LC. Sometimes drag mode without LC is faster, and sometimes track mode with TC turned all the way up is faster than the other two options. You need to be able to figure out the...

You definitely want a square setup. Staggered setup tire warranties are usually 50% of a squared setup on top of being constrained by product availability (depending on the size).

Cost is less than paying retail for cookie cutter designs from a lot of resellers. If it's some type of wild design that has no potential to sell to others, that would cost more. But with something like this that has more potential for sales, eating the design and certification costs isn't a...

Some of the other threads gave a bit of good feedback, so I wanted to ask for input on this wheel design as well. Just had them made, these are 19" based on the Bugatti Chiron wheel with minor aesthetic changes. This one specifically has more differences as the lip is broken up between polish...

Definitely wasn't him. He would've said something like "yeah, brakes are decent for a heavy car but it still handles like my wife moves after a night of heavy drinking". Or something like that.

The design of the track pack / zero G wheels are just heavy. I made a set of them a couple of years ago in a 19" and they were barely lighter than the 20" uberturbines, which are extremely hefty themselves.

It also states on your invoice that you are able to keep the non-warrantied parts if you pay the core charge (minus a few specific exclusions). Unfortunately I've become familiar with this specific topic since it's one part of my lawsuit, since they refused to let me have the parts I paid for...

I did see some of those, but can't remember if those steering wheels also still had the horn button instead of the mechanical setup. Did they ever offer them as replacements with the mechanical horn?

Tire warranty = keep multiple sets of extras on hand 😂

Yeah, i just went to check different coverage and the LR was over $2000/year cheaper than the plaid.

That's pretty fast...too many people downplay how fast they are because they compare it to a plaid. But 7.1 on the 1/8 is a fast car.

Sorry, I keep expecting everyone that races to be in a plaid. No idea what the LR runs

Depending on the hole, will probably be 6.2ish. you'll get better competition on the 1/8 because a lot of drag cars are set up for 1/8. Beyond that, it usually just creates unnecessary wear because the race was already over

Street tires I just run the usual 40psi on both 19 and 21. With the radials I ran 24psi at the track. Tried running lower on the radials but it didn't really help anything.

It may be different on each track, but the Vegas track specifically requires an SA2020 rated helmet or higher for sub 10's. You also have to keep your trap speed below 150, otherwise you need a chute on the car. This reason is why I usually do no prep instead of prepped events; on no prep it's...

The problem with radials is they have to be warm or they'll be worse for traction than street tires, so it really depends on the surface you're on and if you can heat them up prior to. I normally race on no prep, and the OEM 19" pirelli are the most consistent tires I've personally seen. Tesla...

1/4 was roughly the same et with a lower trap. The difference was negligible. Not enough to stress over it.

275/40/19 nt555rii. I haven't ran radials on the front, only the rear.

You probably just don't realize it because it may not be making noise due to surface conditions. It doesn't magically go away when the noise isn't present.

It's the accurate take. You ignored the entire post, and focused on an et, which was never the point, or matters in the context whatsoever.

If only I had hundreds of dragy logs showing how the car reacts to bad launches and still gets 9 second 1/4's ... Most people can't "perceive" the spinning or nerfing because it happens so quickly. But, it needs to be remembered that, traction control isn't triggered until the tires are...

Yep, the lucid lacks pretty bad on no prep. Tesla's system is good enough where I hit 1.3g on prepped and no prep consistently.

That was just OEM 19 tires/wheels. But I have runs on those, OEM 21, OEM 21 wheels with pirelli nf0, then na0, then na0 rears and lm1 pirelli, then nf0 goodyears, then aftermarket 21 wheels with OEM PS4S, and na0 pirelli rears with lm1 fronts. Then for radials, nitto rears and pirelli t0 19 on...

Again solidifying your ignorance about racing by focusing on an irrelevant point.

I personally think it's one of if not the best ever. It's unimaginably difficult to put 1000whp to the pavement with street tires on any car that exists. Couple that with the near instantaneous levels of torque, and the problem expands exponentially. It would be nice if we had more accurate...

It's not an assumption. Here is one of many completely random videos of my car at the track, you can hear it spinning up until a little before the 330' mark (before it migrates into the typical tread noise), at which point I'm normally somewhere around 80-90mph depending on the tire setup. The...