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So here is my geniune two cents for @Neon001

I've been in the modding scene a long time. Vorsteiner is a very reputable brand that started selling knockoff CSL kits for the e46 m3. I used to have one back in the day, and that's when they rose to stardom. I think the founder now primarily focuses his time on Guntherworks making some beautiful restomod Porsches.

Vorsteiner, while reputable, uses off the shelf offsets on cast wheels, which many would tell you is not money well spent on a 100k car. Don't be shocked if you get pre-refresh offsets. If you decide to go this route, there are a million and one brands that are cheaper with the same look. Cast will crack, forged will bend (much easier than cast would crack). Pick your poison. I personally don't mind cast wheels at all, but if I were going that route, it would be OEM Arachnids for me or HRE FF.

BC Forged, yes it's widely known that they rebrand suspensions (junk) for other companies. Unsurprising they would be contracted from other companies to make their wheels. But who knows if that's true. MHT makes Rotiform, but i'd NEVER buy a set of MHT wheels. Manufacturing and design are independent, and customer service is also independent. If you really just care about forged at a lower price point then buy custom forged wheels from AliBaba and guess the sizes and offsets, because Signature surely won't help you there.

Nothing worse than dropping 4 grand and having your wheels sit an inch in the fender liner. Ask those who have made the same mistake, and trust me there are plenty.

Signature wheels are still a bargain in the grand scheme of things. At least you're not a dummy like me that dropped 10k on HRE's.
 
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Thanks for the detailed post. I reached out to Jamie last night. I'm waiting to hear back on the 105s. If nothing else I'd like to at least understand how far apart they are, price wise. After eyeing them online a bit more the design is really growing in me, too. Lots more detail and character in the face than the EH308.

On the other hand, though I understand your point about the purchase experience and proper fitment, let's face it - it's a lot of money for 20-30 minutes of consultation up front. Sure, it's an expensive car, but I didn't get in the position to afford such a car by not being judicious with my money. The "built to your specification" sales pitch is wonderful, but 99% of buyers are just going to say, "I want them flush with the fenders". Specs are specs, and cars are built on an assembly line in (substantially) the same way every time, so when I order a wheel with a given offset and width, I know what it's going to look like on my car. In this case, I do tend to agree with you though, at it seems like there just aren't a lot of documented wheel setups out there yet for refresh S, and the configuration of the pre-refresh is different. So yeah, I can see the value in that.

Like you, I've bought plenty of aftermarket wheels before (mostly for BMW M3s and Audi S4/S5), and this is just the way I've always done it. Look online for a car with your exact model and suspension setup, check the photos to see that the fitment matches what you want, and duplicate their wheel/tire specs. Guess I've just never had another option.
 
Would really appreciate some opinions and advice. After a lot of searching, I've narrowed down my selections to two options to replace my stock arachnids for my White '22 MS LR:

(Primary) Vorsteiner VFF-107: 20" in Carbon Graphite. Some example photos: https://s.yimg.com/aah/wheelsperformancecom/bmw-m4-gts-vorsteiner-flow-forged-v-ff-107-wheels-1.gif (not a tesla or even a white car); Tesla Model 3 - Vorsteiner V-FF 107 (white Tesla, but M3)

Pros: Ideal design (10/10 IMO), great color, quality brand, much better price, ride comfort (mainly 20 vs 21)
Cons: Heavy(er), cast (weaker), build time (2+ months?), size not ideal (prefer 21s)

(Secondary) BC Forged EH308: 21" in brushed black. Some example photos (not on a Tesla): Audi RS6 C7 Red BC Forged EH308 Range Rover Velar White BC Forged EH308

Pros: Forged (strong), come in 21" size, shorter lead time (~4 weeks), lighter
Cons: Much more expensive - when factoring tires, around $2k more, clean look but a little uninspired.

I'm leaning toward the Vorsteiners unless I hear good reason to do otherwise. Also looking for good 20" fitments for refresh Model S, if anyone has anything authoritative. I've searched and found a half dozen different specs depending on lowering links, alignment, etc.

One major concern with the Vorsteiner FF107 is the load rating, which is only 725kg (about 1600lbs.) That's probably fine for a BMW M3 or a Tesla Model 3 but the Plaid is much heavier and with much more torque. I'd be hesitant putting wheels on a Plaid with a load rating of only 725kg per wheel.
 
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Like you, I've bought plenty of aftermarket wheels before (mostly for BMW M3s and Audi S4/S5), and this is just the way I've always done it. Look online for a car with your exact model and suspension setup, check the photos to see that the fitment matches what you want, and duplicate their wheel/tire specs. Guess I've just never had another option.

This is exactly why nobody gives offsets anymore.

But yeah, I think in a year or two you should be able to find lots of offset specs online. As of now that's tough.
 
19x10 +40 square setup on my Plaid custom forged wheels

IMG_20220103_104026555.jpg



IMG_20220103_111507189_HDR.jpg

IMG_20220103_111528242_HDR.jpg
 
Thanks for the detailed post. I reached out to Jamie last night. I'm waiting to hear back on the 105s. If nothing else I'd like to at least understand how far apart they are, price wise. After eyeing them online a bit more the design is really growing in me, too. Lots more detail and character in the face than the EH308.

On the other hand, though I understand your point about the purchase experience and proper fitment, let's face it - it's a lot of money for 20-30 minutes of consultation up front. Sure, it's an expensive car, but I didn't get in the position to afford such a car by not being judicious with my money. The "built to your specification" sales pitch is wonderful, but 99% of buyers are just going to say, "I want them flush with the fenders". Specs are specs, and cars are built on an assembly line in (substantially) the same way every time, so when I order a wheel with a given offset and width, I know what it's going to look like on my car. In this case, I do tend to agree with you though, at it seems like there just aren't a lot of documented wheel setups out there yet for refresh S, and the configuration of the pre-refresh is different. So yeah, I can see the value in that.

Like you, I've bought plenty of aftermarket wheels before (mostly for BMW M3s and Audi S4/S5), and this is just the way I've always done it. Look online for a car with your exact model and suspension setup, check the photos to see that the fitment matches what you want, and duplicate their wheel/tire specs. Guess I've just never had another option.

You will be surprise how many type "flush fitment" is out there. Everyone see's the flush fitment differently. A setup could be flush for this person but not flush for another person. During the ordering process with Jamie, he showed me many different type of "flush fitment" and he ask me which I like the most. I'm sure he build many different wheel setup and buy different type of tire to test them on his Plaid. I haven't seen ANY wheel rep for Tesla is willing to spend their own time and money on doing that. A lot of people get offended when Signature don't disclose the offset, but I mean... why would anyone want to share their hardwork if that's what make them different than others? It's the same reason that MPP don't share their spring rate on their coilover.
 
I can relate, I've spent the last two weeks doing homework on offsets/fitment for my Plaid. I respect the work wheel companies go through to find fitments for new vehicles like the Plaid, so I'm not going to break their balls on that - they're protecting their investment. The easy route would have been to just go through Jamie but there was not a Signature wheel style that I really was really into.

What I resorted to is sending messages to everyone with fitments I liked that I could find online...asking the owner directly for the specs. EVERY owner I chatted with was more than happy to share details. I created my own little database on offsets/fitments and was able to make accurate fitment decisions from there. Worked for me...but it took a couple weeks and LOTS of emails/messages to get it right.
 
I can relate, I've spent the last two weeks doing homework on offsets/fitment for my Plaid. I respect the work wheel companies go through to find fitments for new vehicles like the Plaid, so I'm not going to break their balls on that - they're protecting their investment. The easy route would have been to just go through Jamie but there was not a Signature wheel style that I really was really into.

What I resorted to is sending messages to everyone with fitments I liked that I could find online...asking the owner directly for the specs. EVERY owner I chatted with was more than happy to share details. I created my own little database on offsets/fitments and was able to make accurate fitment decisions from there. Worked for me...but it took a couple weeks and LOTS of emails/messages to get it right.

Sorry if I’m late, but what wheels did you end up with? Any photos?
 
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Nice, they look pretty flush. So if you could do it over again, would you have gone with more (or less) aggressive offsets or are you happy with the way they look now?
It's pretty dialed in for a 100D. I do have another set of 21" wheel on delivery with almost the same specs, except this one has 21x9 et20 in the fronts.

So far, no rubbing with 2 passengers on city streets and highways, but it does rub when I reverse out of my driveway. I am lowered on links and the height in the pics is my normal driving height which is set to low. Rather than trying to figure out the widest wheels I could fit, I first decided which size tire I wanted to run, and then maximized the offsets based on that.
 
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It's pretty dialed in for a 100D. I do have another set of 21" wheel on delivery with almost the same specs, except this one has 21x9 et20 in the fronts.

So far, no rubbing with 2 passengers on city streets and highways, but it does rub when I reverse out of my driveway. I am lowered on links and the height in the pics is my normal driving height which is set to low. Rather than trying to figure out the widest wheels I could fit, I first decided which size tire I wanted to run, and then maximized the offsets based on that.
Car looks nice. I like the look of your tail lights a lot better than mine. Is that just tint ? Or maybe they just look darker in the pic.
 
Would really appreciate some opinions and advice. After a lot of searching, I've narrowed down my selections to two options to replace my stock arachnids for my White '22 MS LR:

(Primary) Vorsteiner VFF-107: 20" in Carbon Graphite. Some example photos: https://s.yimg.com/aah/wheelsperformancecom/bmw-m4-gts-vorsteiner-flow-forged-v-ff-107-wheels-1.gif (not a tesla or even a white car); Tesla Model 3 - Vorsteiner V-FF 107 (white Tesla, but M3)

Pros: Ideal design (10/10 IMO), great color, quality brand, much better price, ride comfort (mainly 20 vs 21)
Cons: Heavy(er), cast (weaker), build time (2+ months?), size not ideal (prefer 21s)

(Secondary) BC Forged EH308: 21" in brushed black. Some example photos (not on a Tesla): Audi RS6 C7 Red BC Forged EH308 Range Rover Velar White BC Forged EH308

Pros: Forged (strong), come in 21" size, shorter lead time (~4 weeks), lighter
Cons: Much more expensive - when factoring tires, around $2k more, clean look but a little uninspired.

I'm leaning toward the Vorsteiners unless I hear good reason to do otherwise. Also looking for good 20" fitments for refresh Model S, if anyone has anything authoritative. I've searched and found a half dozen different specs depending on lowering links, alignment, etc.
No question here... go with the forged wheels.
 
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