Great information. Keep in mind you only need to remove the panels on the dash to remove the mcu. The center console will be attached and not need to be remove. The trim removal shortly the 17th min mark will not be needed to remove the mcu.
-
Want to remove ads? Register an account and login to see fewer ads, and become a Supporting Member to remove almost all ads.
Preventive eMMC replacement on MCU1
- Thread starter widodh
- Start date
Great information. Keep in mind you only need to remove the panels on the dash to remove the mcu. The center console will be attached and not need to be remove. The trim removal shortly the 17th min mark will not be needed to remove the mcu.
BlueOvalFan
Member
Work in progress! Help is welcomeDoing this in my spare time.
Thanks gents. Very informative. I just about finished on dash disassembly and wondering why pulling the MCU fuse, or 12V fuse, and HV loop (Tesla manual) is necessary.
Some folks have even reported driving their car with the daughters board out for repair. So is it ness art to any, all fuses. Little confused in this regard.
The wires are live. General practice is good to remove power first for safety. Since Tesla also recommends it, I'm not going to recommend that you don't pull them (liability issues.) It is a 20A fuse, so it will pop if the connector gets grounded. I will admit in other areas having a fuse saved me from having bad things happen. Also when young and playing with batteries I quickly learned what a short circuit was.
Yes, the car can drive with mcu and no terga. Collecting more info to post on that soon.
Oddly enough extraction on my p3 /var p4 /home are clean but my p1 and p2 having issues. It's there a way to recreate at least current firmware squashfs partitions? I am able to identify which is the current partition (file dates) but it throws a bunch of squashfs errors when mounted.
That is not obvious to me from what green tweeted. ?
Not sure if this is the fix referred to by Tesla. Archiving syslogs via gzip has been around on Unix/Linux for a while. More to the point, your not saving writes by taking a syslog file that was already on the disk , gzipping and then writing the new gzipped file back again. Sure it saves blocks but it's a net positive on number of writes to the eMMC module.
You can find the firmware through the proper channels.
So make sure you have p3 and p4 backed up! Mainly your /var/etc files in p3. Once you have those you're safe.
What I did notice though is that without the MCU the DC<>DC converter doesn't turn on and thus your 12V battery is drained.
Therefor, if you remove the MCU, keep the frunk unlocked so you can reach the 12V battery. Or hook up the 12V to a tender.
It seems really unlikely that the MCU would manage the 12v recharging. Can anyone else confirm if this is normal?
Newscutter
Member
Could I request a sticky to this thread with contact details and physical locations of those who do this as a service?
I'm not inclined at this point to take my car apart (no signs of failure that I know of) and FedEx a valuable part away, but if there were a list of reputable and experienced people to contact it would help reduce the panic if/when the time came, as opposed to searching vaguely through pages and pages of responses and multiple threads.
Though I've been noticing repair prices through the SC have been coming down and I'm personally holding out hope that mine lasts long enough to benefit from a modification that will make replacement easier in the future (like Gruber's socket idea).
I'm not inclined at this point to take my car apart (no signs of failure that I know of) and FedEx a valuable part away, but if there were a list of reputable and experienced people to contact it would help reduce the panic if/when the time came, as opposed to searching vaguely through pages and pages of responses and multiple threads.
Though I've been noticing repair prices through the SC have been coming down and I'm personally holding out hope that mine lasts long enough to benefit from a modification that will make replacement easier in the future (like Gruber's socket idea).
I thought I read here about people that have used the car “normally” for a week without the mcu. Normally as fast as drive functions anyway I was assuming.
I drove mine for weeks without an MCU. It never occurred to me that the 12v might not be charging. The DC to DC converter that recharges the 12v is powered by the high voltage pack. Are there any settings in the MCU regarding 12v charging? Why would the DC to DC charger be connected to the MCU?
I can't prove otherwise. I just found that when I removed my MCU that after ~6 days the 12V battery of my 2013 Model S85 was dead. Never happened before.
Once the MCU was back in the car it never happened again.
So somehow the DC<>DC converter didn't kick in those 6 days.
Good question!
I don't know. It's just my experience. Without the MCU my 12V wasn't charged.
That would be a logical conclusion based on your experience. Did your car charge at all? Did you have any location based or time based MCU settings disabling your main battery charging?
Yes, the 12V stops charging once mcu is pulled, does not happen when Terga is out of MCU, only when MCU is disconnected. I put car on tender.
To be clear, also does not happen with dead eMMC, if it does, it should be an unrelated issue...
Similar threads
