Power Steering falling apart

[mrElbe]

Can't tell from the photos. The salt solution seeps in where the arrows are pointing. The top 2 bolts will weaken first until the bottom bolt is the only fastener holding the motor for a while.

This is why the 2015 Ford recall fix replaces the bolts and applies sealer to that joint area.

 

[MDR SEA]

That makes sense.
The bolts are outside the rubber o-ring seal.
If I was to separate the pieces then I'd apply some silicone.
Since we don't use salt here I'm going for R&R bolts.
Cheers

 

[scottm]

This is probably a case where full face gasket would have been better than an o-ring. It would have cut-outs that allow bolts to pass through thereby sealing corrosion from getting at the bolts.

Plus, having that flat-spot on the top of the housing where the round motor face bolts on creates an area for water pooling that might otherwise runoff if both shapes were rounded similarly on the top side.

And using aluminum bolts... is just well... unfortunate engineering choice.

I bet all these choices were made, in part, to trim a little weight off the steering rack and save a few pennies in materials.

 

[scottm]

While we're all staring at these OE bolts, has anybody posted what the Torx head size is to get them out?

(Just so people can be better prepared going in to do the job.)

 

[mongo]

This is probably a case where full face gasket would have been better than an o-ring. It would have cut-outs that allow bolts to pass through thereby sealing corrosion from getting at the bolts.

One advantage of this setup is that the two machined metal surfaces define the relative position of the two sprockets. With a full face gasket, the (potentially variable) thickness would need to be taken into account. It also ensures the two shafts are parallel.

 

[scottm]

Then perhaps an outer o-ring (encircling all the bolts) would have been a better choice, if mating surface alignment is very important.

I'd think because it's a rubber belt being driven, there'd be decent tolerance for shaft skew taken up by the belt flexibility. It also appears the belt can handle coaxial slippage on the sprocket (self-positioning) if it's narrower than the sprocket between those side guards that prevent a belt from slipping right off the end of the sprocket. ..

Hey, while we're on this face mating topic...

These pictures show lots of corrosion on the faces. Do you think pressure of metal flaking and expansion with road salts continuously being added is one of the factors causing the bolt shearing? Are the faces being pushed apart by corrosion once it takes hold between the surfaces?


If I find one broken bolt, the motor is going to have to come off. Then I'd be re-polishing the mating surfaces and slather thin coating of anti-seize over it before reassembly.

And in all cases, some kind of sealant around the seam once its bolted back up.

 

[brown85]

Then perhaps an outer o-ring (encircling all the bolts) would have been a better choice, if mating surface alignment is very important.

I'd think because it's a rubber belt being driven, there'd be decent tolerance for shaft skew taken up by the belt flexibility. It also appears the belt can handle coaxial slippage on the sprocket (self-positioning) if it's narrower than the sprocket between those side guards that prevent a belt from slipping right off the end of the sprocket. ..

Hey, while we're on this face mating topic...

These pictures show lots of corrosion on the faces. Do you think pressure of metal flaking and expansion with road salts continuously being added is one of the factors causing the bolt shearing? Are the faces being pushed apart by corrosion once it takes hold between the surfaces?


If I find one broken bolt, the motor is going to have to come off. Then I'd be re-polishing the mating surfaces and slather thin coating of anti-seize over it before reassembly.

And in all cases, some kind of sealant around the seam once its bolted back up.

Everyone on here is way over thinking this it's very simple remove all three bolts aluminum bolts if they snap off no big deal you have replacements undo the motor plugs and remove the motor assembly from the vehicle clean the mating surface and save the o ring if it's covered in salt use hot water and a rag to clean off the salt cover it in vaseiline and set it to the side get a tap to clean out the threaded holes in the motor face M8x1.25 if you have any bolts snapped off in the motor drill out using a 1/8 drill bit and use a bolt extractor I will post pictures once you put steel bolts in you won't have to worry so much about the corrosion problem I will post pictures of the tools needed finished it should look like this

 

[scottm]

I went to the Nut'n'Bolt supply house and asked about selecting bolts for this job... After hearing about the application, environment, corrosion concerns, etc... he recommended stainless steel. He did say SS are not the strongest bolt and grade 8.8 are tougher, but when I told him the OE bolts are aluminum, then "no problem". When asked about threading into dissimilar metals (into aluminum) and use of threading compound, didn't recommend using any.

In the end a bag of 3 x SS bolts, washers, and lock washers... $5 on the counter. (That's $4 for you Yankees).

 

[JRP3]

The only real concern with SS into aluminum would be galling, but that's only an issue if you intend to remove them someday.

 

[scottm]

I don't think the EPS motor belt is a maintenance item and should be good for life of car... that motor is staying on there, once it's mounted securely.

 

[brown85]

Here is some more pics of the tools that are required and of what's left of the bolts after extraction

Little hard to see the bolt heads are a t-45 socket

 

[scottm]

The threads on the stubby bits seem pretty clean, so they twisted out without much problem?

I have the spiraled type extractor set.

 

[brown85]

The threads on the stubby bits seem pretty clean, so they twisted out without much problem?

I have the spiraled type extractor set.

Yes they came out kinda easily but still need that hard hit to break them lose I personally don't use the sprial sets anymore once you use the straight set you won't go back

 

[brown85]

Parked my car in the driveway at noon today. Entered the car at 6pm and immediate message "Car needs service", "Auto Park not available", "Power steering " accompanied by awful noise and jerking when touching the steering wheel. removed the tub and Voila! the same problem as the original Poster.
View attachment 263444

Cleaned it and got 8mm bolts and did a beautiful re-attachment job and no more messages BUT when turning steering wheel, awful grinding noise. So the gear is worn.
View attachment 263446

Hey MrElbe

I just fiqured out both of our problems when we both installed our motors wrong and mine works now we didn't pre tensioned the belts hopefully yours works like mine just did I pulled my motor off again to see if I could get a part number off the belt and I did will post pictures after this then I reinstalled the motor it sounded even worse then before with the loud grinding sounds so I lossen the bolts off again and placed a pry bar under the rear side of the motor and forced the motor up hard!! And retightend the bolts there is no tensioner in this system but just the slop in the holes in the rack is enough to make the belt jump so I just tried it out and it works just like before!!! No noises at all!!! I hope you read this and everyone else that does this job reads this

Push down hard!! on the pry bar in this position and tighten the bolts at the same time

 

[MDR SEA]

Everyone on here is way over thinking this it's very simple remove all three bolts aluminum bolts if they snap off no big deal you have replacements undo the motor plugs and remove the motor assembly from the vehicle clean the mating surface and save the o ring if it's covered in salt use hot water and a rag to clean off the salt cover it in vaseiline and set it to the side get a tap to clean out the threaded holes in the motor face M8x1.25 if you have any bolts snapped off in the motor drill out using a 1/8 drill bit and use a bolt extractor I will post pictures once you put steel bolts in you won't have to worry so much about the corrosion problem I will post pictures of the tools needed finished it should look like this
View attachment 275753

Of course we're over thinking, it's a forum!
We're arm chair mechanics.

Thanks for the exhaustive detail.
The only thing missing is you stopping by and performing the task....
Thanks and keep it coming.
MDR

 

[mrElbe]

brown85, that is great work and nice documentation. In hindsight I should have tried the tensioning before I gave up and spent over
$ 3,000.- for a new steering rack.

 

[mrElbe]

I just got a call from Transport Canada today. They would like to hear of all Canadian vehicle steering rack failures for their investigation. Please call Darryl Malone of Transport Canada at 1-800-333-0510
They are especially interested in examining a failed part even if it is just a sheared bolt. Unfortunately I did not ask for the failed rack when I got mine replaced .

 

[brown85]

I just got a call from Transport Canada today. They would like to hear of all Canadian vehicle steering rack failures for their investigation. Please call Darryl Malone of Transport Canada at 1-800-333-0510
They are especially interested in examining a failed part even if it is just a sheared bolt. Unfortunately I did not ask for the failed rack when I got mine replaced .

I already called them the other day and gave them this forum info and they took my pictures and added them to my claim I will call Darryl's number tomorrow to see what they will need from me and sorry to hear that you already did your rack

 

[MikeBur]

Interesting thread. Been having some clunking and other noises at low speed on close-to-full lock, SEA SC said no fault found... and it’s still there. I’m not imagining things.

Thanks to all for the sleuthing and pix.
...We don't use salt on the roads in WA.

Not entirely correct anymore, particularly east of Cascades, from:WSDOT - Eastern Region Winter Snow and Ice Program

“In past years, the primary winter traction aid used on state highways was sand. Now, liquid chemicals have become an important component in the snow and ice control program. In addition, rock salt and salt brine have returned as a tool for highway maintenance crews.”

Even on western side, things have changed. From: WSDOT - Winter Travel - Snow & Ice Removal
“Most vehicles are made with a protective under coating that helps the vehicle resist damage and corrosion. WSDOT continues to strongly recommend drivers who drive on roads treated with anti-icer wash their vehicles to prevent build-up.”

Expect increased corrosion, and wash the cars down after going over the passes

 

[RAW84]

brown85, that is great work and nice documentation. In hindsight I should have tried the tensioning before I gave up and spent over
$ 3,000.- for a new steering rack.

Mine is at the service center now waiting for a new rack to arrive...do you know if the replacement is still using aluminum bolts? Should I press them to use SS?