Paint Correction & Coating - G|Techniq C1 & EXO

[kevincwelch]

In case you had any doubts.

This is after I applied C1 and EXO v2.

GTechniq C1 and EXO v2 sheeting and beading. - YouTube

 

[Corvo]

Anyone experiencing hazing due to C1 and EXO application yet? Heard some rumors of this popping up a couple of weeks after application.

Hello Tesla Owners. Sorry to have been absent on the forums for so long. I am the founder of Gotham Auto if you didn't know. I recently stepped back from the day to day operations at Gotham to go work with GTechniq North America, that's how much I believe in the product. I am not here to advertise as I know it is frowned on, but if anyone does have any questions or issues, please PM me and I will address them ASAP.

As far as the hazing goes, it's caused by improper application of the product. There is a learning curve that is involved whenever anyone switches over from Carnuba based waxes and polymer paint sealants to a coating product such as Gtechniq C1 and EXO. If anyone is having this issue, please contact me and we can get it solved.

 

[kevincwelch]

Thanks, Corvo. I specifically didn't have any issues, but I was bringing it up because a couple people brought up issues on a detailing forum and there were questions/concerns abound.

Here's what I've learned from asking questions and from learning things the hard way:
1. There's a window of time between C1 and EXO v2. Rob has told me this is 3-12 hours. I applied my EXOv2 around 8 hours, because that's just how it worked out. I experienced no issues as a result of this.
2. You really have to look at your application from multiple angles and under multiple lighting conditions. I think this is where people also get their problems. With my last application, it ended up raining and I didn't have as much light in the garage. I thought I had thoroughly checked everything after applying C1, but there is a small area in the middle of my hood right above the rear view mirror where there is hazing -- the hardest area to reach with my arm length and right in the middle. I didn't buff it enough to level it out and there is some hazing there. Hard to tell, but I see it all right.
3. I had a nice C1 hand print on my windshield from when I must have gotten some C1 on my glove. Fortunately it was the windshield and I could polish it off.
4. The marring is very real if you apply to much pressure when buffing

This time around it I felt pretty confident, but there's definitely a curve.

But, when you get it right, it looks beautiful!

 

[bareyb]

What is meant by "Paint Correction"?

 

[kevincwelch]

What is meant by "Paint Correction"?

Basically refers to the act of removing swirls, holograms, oxidation, random scratches, paint transfer and just about anything that can be fixed by using compounds and/or polishes. All these below surface defects reflect, refract or absorb light and the effect is either an unsightly paint appearance or a dull appearance. It's obviously a continuum of severity.

It can be fairly simple to correct the paint if the defects are few and shallow or take many hours and a lot of skill if the defects are many, deep and complex.

It's hard to avoid swirls in a daily driver, but the best that you can do is coat your vehicle with something like GTechniq or Opticoat and us proper washing techniques.

You can correct by hand or by machine using a rotary polisher or a dual action polisher.

 

[Corvo]

What is meant by "Paint Correction"?

Paint Correction is the term used to explain the difference between hiding imperfections in your car's paint system versus actually removing them. When you are doing a true "paint correction", you are removing damaged layers of clear coat/paint and then polishing the newly exposed layer. The idea is to get a surface that is as smooth as possible before any sort of wax/sealant or coating is applied.

It's not impossible to avoid swirl marks in your car, it's just a matter of proper maintenance. Tesla does make it more difficult because the clear coat they use is VERY soft compared to other brands. The good thing about that is if you do damage the paint, it's easier to repair.

The number one rule I always stress to any of my personal customers or any of the other GTechniq detailers is that it is better to wait until you have the time and perform your washes/maintenance details properly then it is to get the paint clean just because it's dirtier than you like it.

- - - Updated - - -

Thanks, Corvo. I specifically didn't have any issues, but I was bringing it up because a couple people brought up issues on a detailing forum and there were questions/concerns abound.

Here's what I've learned from asking questions and from learning things the hard way:
1. There's a window of time between C1 and EXO v2. Rob has told me this is 3-12 hours. I applied my EXOv2 around 8 hours, because that's just how it worked out. I experienced no issues as a result of this.
The window of time is based on the conditions you are applying in. In 68 degrees with mild humidity, you can apply EXO after about 4-6 hours. We also have people baking the cars in a paint booth and the C1 is cured in 45 minutes.
2. You really have to look at your application from multiple angles and under multiple lighting conditions. I think this is where people also get their problems. With my last application, it ended up raining and I didn't have as much light in the garage. I thought I had thoroughly checked everything after applying C1, but there is a small area in the middle of my hood right above the rear view mirror where there is hazing -- the hardest area to reach with my arm length and right in the middle. I didn't buff it enough to level it out and there is some hazing there. Hard to tell, but I see it all right.
I recommend using 3 microfiber towels after applying C1. 1). to make sure that the c1 is completely level and total coverage is achieved. 2). start to buff off the product just like you would a wax or sealant and 3). to go back over the panel and get the areas you can't see. Always work slow and do one panel at a time. Take the time to do it right rather than do it fast.
3. I had a nice C1 hand print on my windshield from when I must have gotten some C1 on my glove. Fortunately it was the windshield and I could polish it off.
C1 really isn't meant for glass. EXO is fine though.
4. The marring is very real if you apply to much pressure when buffing.
General rule of thumb for proper detailing, it's better to make multiple light passes with your microfiber rag than it is to put pressure on your rag just to get the excess product off.

This time around it I felt pretty confident, but there's definitely a curve.

But, when you get it right, it looks beautiful!

As I have started more and more to instruct others on proper applications, it's not so much of a learning curve as it is a change in the thought process. You want to keep in mind that this is not a wax or a sealant that the excess comes off easy. It's a thin coat that WILL cure hard if not layered out properly. For my own sake, I tried explaining how to apply a paste wax to a friend of mine as if they had never heard of it before, and it came out just as complicated.

 

[kevincwelch]

The C1 on the windshield was because it got on my glove when I was applying it to the roof; I was balancing myself by putting my hand on the windshield. Little did I know...

 

[sam46217]

where in Indiana?

 

[therealmach3]

I have refined my car detailing skills quite a bit over the last 4 months. The GTechniq treatment looks absolutely brilliant, but I am
also doing a careful two bucket wash (the right way) and if I go to a car wash I never use anything except touch less washes.

One of the things I have eliminated, are any swirl marks from the drying process. I never touch the paint to dry and instead use water to dry the car. There is a guy on the detailing forums that do a great job explaining how to do this. If you need motivation to figure out how to take advantage of the hydrophobic qualities of GTechniq and not damage the paint job during your routine washes, watch my Instagram video of drying my Model S hood ... this stuff is just unreal! Instagram

 

[kevincwelch]

Awesome video.

I've also noticed that when I do use a towel to dry, the process is so much quicker that even the lightest touch will more or less push the water off.

 

[Corvo]

Hey all. I am working on a project for Gtechniq. Would any of you be willing to give a testimonial about your experience either having the product applied to you car professionally or DIY? It would REALLY help me out. Please PM me if interested.

 

[Bulldog Kyle]

Great Job Kevin!